when it’s embellished in holiday dress.
Just down the block, at 1140 Royal St., is the LaLaurie House—also known simply as “The Haunted House”—which, along with its evil owner, was featured in the FX series American Horror Story: Coven. Madame Delphine LaLaurie, a wealthy socialite, bought the Creole mansion in 1831, and incredible stories of wild parties and servant abuse soon followed. When a fire broke out in 1834, neighbors broke in through a locked door and found seven slaves chained and starving. As outraged citizens protested outside, a carriage sped into the crowd and away from the premises; in the carriage were Madame LaLaurie and her family, who escaped to Paris, never to return. Legend has it that the spirits of the slaves still inhabit the mansion, making it a favorite stop on haunted-history tours.
Turn left on Governor Nicholls Street. At the corner of Governor Nicholls and Royal is the Verti Marte, a beloved French Quarter institution known for its All That Jazz po’boy (sautéed shrimp, turkey, ham, mushrooms, Swiss and American cheeses, and a special “Wow Sauce”). The place is open 24 hours a day, seven days a week, making it wildly popular with locals.
Walk one block to Bourbon Street and turn left. Walk two blocks to Lafitte’s Blacksmith Shop (941 Bourbon St.), a tavern that was built between 1722 and 1732 and is considered one of the oldest structures used as a bar in the United States. According to Lafitte’s website, the property is believed to have been used by pirates Jean and Pierre Lafitte as a New Orleans base for their smuggling operation.
Walk two blocks to 739 Bourbon St., home of Marie Laveau’s House of Voodoo. Named for the city’s most famous voodoo queen, this fun souvenir shop sells everything from tribal masks and statues to voodoo dolls and spell kits. And if you want to have your palm read or your fortune told, you’re at the right place.
Head right on St. Ann Street (left if you’re leaving the House of Voodoo), walk one block to Dauphine Street, then turn right and take Dauphine five blocks to Esplanade Avenue. At the corner of St. Ann and Dauphine, on your left, you’ll pass Good Friends, one of the city’s most popular gay bars. Farther up Dauphine, you’ll also pass Cabrini Playground on your right, between Governor Nicholls and Barracks Streets. Yes, there is an actual playground in the French Quarter (along with two schools), because families with young children really do live here.
Turn right on Esplanade Avenue. As you round the corner, don’t be surprised to see a crowd of people standing in front of 838 Esplanade—this is Port of Call, which, even with the proliferation of burger restaurants across town, is considered one of the city’s best.
Walk five blocks back to your starting point at the Old US Mint.
POINTS OF INTEREST
Old US Mint crt.state.la.us, 400 Esplanade Ave., 504-568-2022
Soniat House soniathouse.com, 1133 Chartres St., 504-522-0570
Beauregard-Keyes House bkhouse.org, 1113 Chartres St., 504-523-7257
Old Ursuline Convent oldursulineconvent.org, 1100 Chartres St., 504-529-3040
Irene’s Cuisine 539 St. Philip St., 504-529-8811
Harry’s Corner 900 Chartres St., 504-524-1107
Madame John’s Legacy crt.state.la.us/louisiana-state-museum, 632 Dumaine St., 504-568-6968
Miltenberger Houses 900, 906, and 910 Royal St.
Café Amelie cafeamelie.com, 912 Royal St., 504-412-8965
Cornstalk Hotel cornstalkhotel.com, 915 Royal St., 504-523-1515
Gallier House hgghh.org, 1132 Royal St., 504-525-5661
LaLaurie House 1140 Royal St.
Verti Marte 1201 Royal St., 504-525-4767
Lafitte’s Blacksmith Shop lafittesblacksmithshop.com, 941 Bourbon St., 504-593-9761
Marie Laveau’s House of Voodoo voodooneworleans.com, 739 Bourbon St., 504-581-3751
Good Friends Bar goodfriendsbar.com, 740 Dauphine St., 504-566-7191
Cabrini Playground Dauphine Street between Governor Nicholls and Barracks Streets
Port of Call portofcallnola.com, 838 Esplanade Ave., 504-523-0120
ROUTE SUMMARY
1 Begin on Esplanade Avenue at North Peters Street.
2 Walk two blocks to Chartres Street.
3 Turn left and walk five blocks to Dumaine Street.
4 Turn right and walk one block to Royal Street.
5 Turn right and walk three blocks to Governor Nicholls Street.
6 Turn left and walk one block to Bourbon Street.
7 Turn left and walk four blocks to St. Ann Street.
8 Turn right and walk one block to Dauphine Street.
9 Turn right and walk five blocks to Esplanade Avenue.
10 Turn right and walk five blocks to North Peters Street.
Lafitte’s Blacksmith Shop is believed to be the oldest structure used as a bar in the United States.
6 FRENCH MARKET/RIVERFRONT: FAMILY FUN IN THE QUARTER
BOUNDARIES: Bienville St., Decatur St., Barracks St., Mississippi River
DISTANCE: 1.62 miles
PARKING: Several parking lots along Decatur
PUBLIC TRANSIT: Riverfront Streetcar, RTA Buses #5 (Marigny-Bywater) and #55 (Elysian Fields)
The Riverfront area between Canal Street and Esplanade Avenue may be part of the French Quarter, but it’s also a world within itself: a vibrant mix of attractions that includes the lively French Market, a riverfront promenade, and a linear park with lush pathways and stunning sculptures.
Founded in 1791, the French Market is the oldest public market in the United States. Stretching six blocks from Barracks Street to St. Ann Street, it was established as a Native American trading post and at one time was the only legal place in the city to buy meat. Its latest incarnation is that of a
