referred to this long, thin piece of land as Manna-hata, or “island of many hills.” During colonial times, the Dutch and then the British had control over Manhattan. Some parts sustained much damage during the American Revolution, but once the war for independence was won, New York became the first capital of the nation.
Through the years, Manhattan has been a center of commerce and finance, education and scholarship, entertainment and culture, innovation and research. It has seen destruction in the form of fires, terrorist attacks, storms, power outages, looting, and accidents of many types—car, rail, and construction among them. Meanwhile, the infrastructure of Manhattan is astounding: from bridges to alleys, skyscrapers to pop-up shops, along with commercial and residential edifices, religious and educational sites, parks and playgrounds. Automobiles, buses, trains, boats, and helicopters arrive and depart daily (but not airplanes; the nearest airports are in Queens and New Jersey).
Some walking advice:
Wherever you go, don’t be scared—but do be aware of your surroundings, as well as the time of day.
It’s always helpful to carry certain items, such as a pack of tissues (in case a bathroom stall is out of paper), a pen, a piece of identification, a small umbrella, and a few bandages (you’d be surprised how often you might need these).
Stay alert to traffic, be it cars and trucks, bikes and strollers, workers with deliveries, or distracted pedestrians. Some New Yorkers jaywalk; if you do, be very careful—and don’t assume that everyone obeys traffic lights and the right-of-way.
Use landmarks to visually orient yourself. Skyscrapers like the Empire State Building are excellent for this.
When you need a bathroom, among the best places to look for decent, accessible facilities are department stores, libraries, large houses of worship that are open, and hotels. If you’re visiting a museum or touristy site and it has a bathroom, you might want to use it while you’re there. Other places to find restrooms, although they may not be as pleasant, are parks, certain major subway stations, and portable johns in various locations.
Look out for broken pavement, construction hazards, dog or horse messes, and other conditions on sidewalks and roads that could cause accidents or unfortunate situations.
If the street musicians you pass are at least pretty good, give them some coins (or more, if you’re feeling generous).
It may seem that every other New Yorker is preoccupied by a cell phone or handheld device, but you don’t want to do that. To experience Manhattan, you need to see, hear, and smell things.
Have a good time, a meaningful time, a memorable time walking Manhattan!
Manhattan’s outdoor sculptures—such as Noguchi’s The Cube—can amuse and inspire.
1 BOWLING GREEN AND THE BATTERY: FERRIES, FINANCE, FUN
BOUNDARIES: Battery Park, Bowling Green, Coenties Slip, ferry terminals
DISTANCE: 2 miles
SUBWAY: 4 or 5 to Bowling Green, 1 to South Ferry, or R to Whitehall St.
The southernmost section of Manhattan is one of the borough’s most exciting districts. Weekdays (and often weekends, too) find so many people walking around here, going to and from work, checking out tourist sights, attending cultural events. Densely packed streets hold a mix of skyscrapers and older, shorter buildings in this area, which is surrounded by water and has multiple ferry terminals. Many New Yorkers forget how important the docks and waterfront have been to the Big Apple over the years—and still are. You’re likely to see the Staten Island, Liberty Island, or Governors Island ferry boats sail by, and perhaps historical-replica ships operating pleasure cruises. This part of Manhattan presents a jumble of history and culture, commerce and green space. It’s an appropriate locale to start exploring Manhattan—even if you think you’ve seen it all.
The Bowling Green station of the 4 and 5 trains has one entrance that’s a sloped, glass-paneled modern construction and another that’s an old-fashioned brick structure resembling a quaint house. If you got off at Whitehall Street or South Ferry, walk north on Whitehall to the small park called Bowling Green. This space was used as a cattle market and a parade ground before it became a park in the 1730s—and yes, they had lawn bowling here long ago. Bowling Green is Manhattan’s oldest park, and anti-British protests took place here during colonial times.A grand building stands along the south end of the park: the former US Custom House, now home to the National Museum of the American Indian, the George Gustav Heye Center. Its interior is sumptuous, with bold staircases and fixtures. Architect Cass Gilbert designed the Beaux Arts building, Daniel Chester French created the outdoor sculptures, and in the rotunda inside are murals by Reginald Marsh. The National Archives at New York City are located on the third floor.To your right, when your back is to the Custom House, is 2 Broadway, a glass high-rise (designed by the firm headed by Emery Roth) with a modernist mural at the entrance. To your left is “Number One” on Broadway, the impressive United States Lines–Panama Pacific Lines Building, with stately crests above entrance level. A memorial plaque on its corner refers to the Revolutionary War. Just past it, going up Broadway, see the stately Bowling Green Offices, built in 1895–98 in a style its architects, William and George Audsley, described as “Hellenic Renaissance.” To the right of the offices is the Cunard Line Building at 25 Broadway, across from the iconic bronze Charging Bull statue by Arturo Di Modica. The bull may be a familiar part of the tableau here, but it caused a stir in 1989, when Di Modica surreptitiously installed it a bit farther uptown, in front of the New York Stock Exchange. At the time it seemed like a huge joke, but the statue has become so popular that tourists and partiers flock to it and jockey for the best camera angle. But don’t overlook a much older piece a few yards south of the bull: the tall Evacuation Day flagpole, with its moderately worn plaque. November 25, 1783, is the day the British left New York City after the Revolutionary War.
Head back toward the Custom House and cross Broadway into Battery Park. Many people wander into Battery Park only to get to the Statue of Liberty ferry. But there are many interesting and touching things to view here, including the battered golden sphere that was rescued from the World Trade Center plaza. The Battery Urban Farm, open spring through fall, showcases plants and vegetables growing right in the park. A swooping eagle statue heads the solemn East Coast Memorial, honoring World War II military men. The Immigrants statue is a dramatic depiction of newcomers to America. The Norwegian Veterans Monument, the American Merchant Marines Memorial (particularly haunting because of the “drowning” figure), the Eternal Flame, the Korean War Memorial, and others provide mini–history lessons with emotional punch.
Walk to the round sandstone fort, Castle Clinton, and go inside. This building has served many functions over the generations—military protection, an entertainment venue, the processing center (then dubbed Castle Garden) for immigrants entering the country by boat, the city’s aquarium—and now it’s where you depart for the Statue of Liberty or Ellis Island. It also has a nifty museum.Even if you don’t get over to the Statue of Liberty, take some time to gaze at her. She has meant a great deal to so many people for several generations. She is a symbol and major monument of not only New York City but also the United States.
Facing the water and Lady Liberty, walk to your left and you’ll come upon the Whitehall Terminal, Manhattan’s home for the Staten Island Ferry. Now may be the time for you to take a ferry over to the least populated of the five boroughs of New York City. The ride is
