Appendix B Religious and other terminology
Appendix C Useful words and phrases
Appendix D Books, films and music
Appendix E Useful contacts
PREFACE
It is impossible for any thinking man to look down from a hill on to a crowded plain and not ponder over the relative importance of things.
The Mountain Top, Frank S Smythe
Annapurna is the goddess of abundance, a divine deity watching over her devotees with a benevolent smile. Rising from Pokhara or Mustang, the towering massif almost touches the heavens. Only the wildest dreams of nature could have sculpted such grandeur.
The Annapurna giants are sublime in all their moods – whether cast as beckoning temptresses, fiery demons at sunset, shimmering in the starry moonlight, or bathed in the soft light of dawn. They float like benign ghosts above fluffy clouds or appear as a vision of serenity reflected in the cool blue waters of a lake. Sometimes they are darkened by thunderous storms. Superlatives struggle to do justice to the sensational vistas and contrasting landscapes. It’s no wonder that trekkers and mountaineers are drawn, as if hypnotised, to these majestic peaks and their icy bastions.
For centuries Nepal was an isolated and forbidden land. What the early explorers found was paradise on earth, a lush and plentiful kingdom where the rhythms of life unfolded in daily rituals, tinged with strong religious beliefs. Today people are drawn to Nepal for many reasons: to seek the solitude of the wild, to scale the Himalayan giants, to seek out the elusive wildlife, or to look for a spiritual renaissance. For many the main attraction is the sheer beauty and variety of the mystical Himalayan landscapes. Others are content to delve into its historic byways, discovering the hidden shrines of the long-fabled Kathmandu Valley.
Today Nepal has become easily accessible and welcomes thousands of travellers each year. Few of them will return to their daily routines unchanged; exploring the country is challenging, both physically and mentally. The sights, sounds and smells of Nepal live on in the memory, and the trails of the Annapurnas are rightly the most popular trekking routes in this very special place.
The aim of this guide is to inspire adventure-seeking trekkers to go beyond the famil-iar, to explore the most mesmerising mountains in the world.
Siân Pritchard-Jones and Bob Gibbons
Porters on the Kimrong hillsides
Braka and Tilicho Peak (Trek 1)
INTRODUCTION
The power of such a mountain is so great and yet so subtle that, without compulsion, people are drawn to it from near and far, as if by the force of some invisible magnet…
The Way of the White Clouds, Lama Anagarika Govinda
Misty moods: Dhaulagiri from Kopra (Trek 4)
First used in our Cicerone Mount Kailash trekking guide, this quotation is surely no less apt when applied to the Annapurnas. Of all the great Himalayan peaks, the Annapurnas are unique. They are not defined by a single soaring summit, but comprise a vast massif, encompassing multiple peaks, spires and impossibly high ridges. The whole range is about 60km in length, with four major peaks and many subsidiary summits. Even the most sedentary soul will wish to get closer, to explore the verdant valleys, discover the mysterious gorges and head for the high passes.
Trekkers come from far and wide to discover Annapurna. Many arrive full of barely controlled anticipation, seeking a new challenge. All will leave with a renewed inspiration for life – there is something truly uplifting about being among some of nature’s most magical arenas. Everyone will lament the poverty of the ‘developing’ world, but look deeper – do you see many unhappy faces? Nepal’s people are her greatest asset: hard-working, brimming with almost child-like humour, boisterous, endearing, versatile and hungry for change, just like most people across our planet.
Any journey in and around these mountains is a joy, with experiences to treasure for a lifetime. Routes lead around tranquil lakes, through rich farming country, forests of bamboo and rhododendron, cool rainforest, silent alpine glades and rugged, high mountain desert. In the villages, excitable children rush to practise their English. Elsewhere a Hindu god may catch your gaze, or you may hear the chanting of monks in a monastery clinging to a strangely eroded cliff. The Annapurnas may dominate the landscape, but the people and the culture will surprise and delight in equal measure.
This latest Cicerone guide to Annapurna discusses the impact of new mountain ‘roads’ on the trails. Initially it might be tempting to write off those areas that have experienced the internal combustion engine for the first time at close quarters. Change is happening in Nepal at a staggering pace, despite its underdeveloped status. However – and this must be stressed most emphatically – do not believe for one minute that the Annapurnas have lost their shine.
There are many new and exciting routes opening across the greater Annapurna region. The guide is divided into three parts, covering established routes, restricted area treks and new homestay trekking areas.
THE EARTHQUAKES OF 2015
In April and May 2015 two powerful earthquakes struck Nepal, causing massive disruption to the country. Although many older houses and some historic temples were left in ruins, across Kathmandu the majority of buildings and infrastructure remained intact. Sadly the rural regions adjacent to the two quakes suffered more serious damage. The main areas affected were below the peaks of Manaslu, Ganesh Himal, Langtang, Gauri Shankar and parts of the Everest region.
The entire Annapurna region, including Upper Mustang and Nar-Phu, was miraculously spared any significant damage. The villages, lodges, trails, roads and hillsides were left intact; only a few isolated houses suffered. Transport links between Kathmandu and Pokhara, as well as along the main valleys of the Kali Gandaki and Marsyangdi in the Annapurna region, remain open and are functioning normally.
We were in Kathmandu during the month of May. Having become instant aid workers (buying up rice, tarpaulins, tin sheets and warm, locally made clothing using generous donations), we witnessed a remarkable few weeks in the country. After the first days of shock, thousands of local people, young and old, engaged in the relief and rebuilding process with amazing energy. There is no doubt that the resilient people of Nepal will be back on their feet well ahead of expectations.
There is no reason for any prospective trekker to the Annapurna region (and much of Nepal) to delay a trip to the Himalayas. The country certainly needs the tourism sector to blossom again as soon as possible. Your trek will help this to happen more quickly.
Anyone
