on the mountain trails of Nepal, and very occasionally some of them are in the employ of foreign trekkers. Fortunately today there is much more awareness about the possible dangers faced by porters, partly because of some high-profile accidents in the past. Exploitation has always been a part of Nepalese society; the caste system, which still pervades the roots of its culture, ensures that each person knows his status. However, visitors need not adopt such attitudes. Following the Maoist insurgency, general wage levels for porters and once badly treated workers throughout society have risen dramatically – perhaps the only benefit of that long reign of violence! Two organisations have made an impact on porter welfare, the International Porter Protection Group (see below) and Tourism Concern (www.tourismconcern.org.uk). Trekking agencies in Nepal are now expected to provide adequate insurance for all their staff.
The following are some outline guidelines for all trekkers:
Ensure that your porters have adequate clothing and equipment for the level of trek you are undertaking: footwear, hat, gloves, warm clothing and sleeping bags or blankets as necessary.
Be prepared with extra medicines for your porters, and don’t abandon them if they are sick; carry funds for such a situation.
Group trekkers can make themselves aware of the policy of their chosen agent and keep an eye on the reality on the ground.
Naturally it is hard for trekkers to really know what is going on behind the scenes; the Nepalese are masters at appealing to the sympathetic nature of visitors to the country.
Developing rural areas through tourism
Tourism is one way in which the culture and livelihoods of the upland people can be sustained in the long term. The major trekking trails have experienced the growth of trekking tourism since the 1960s and the effects have generally been positive. The difficulty is finding the right balance, by improving local living conditions without destroying the existing environment and culture. It is not a unique problem to Nepal, as anyone who has visited other popular mountain destinations – even Chamonix or Zermatt – will have observed. As visitors we have our own views about development but ultimately it is the local people and the different tourism agencies that decide on the future of their region.
The fragile environment of the Himalayas is becoming an ever-pressing concern with global warming, just as it is across the globe. Unless the rural community is served well by tourism, decline is inevitable. Already there is a shortage of manpower in the hills as young people seek better pastures overseas in the Gulf and Malaysia.
Getting there
Karjung Kang peak, above the trail towards Damodar Himal (Trek 6)
Flights to Nepal
The main airlines currently flying to Kathmandu are:
Air Arabia From The Gulf
Air India Via Delhi, Kolkata (Calcutta) and Varanasi
Air Asia Via Kuala Lumpur; low-cost carrier
Bangladesh Biman Via Dhaka; for budget travellers with time to kill
Air China Links Kathmandu with Lhasa, Chengdu and Guangzhou (Canton)
Dragon Air From Hong Kong
Druk Air From Paro, Bhutan, to Kathmandu and on to Delhi
Etihad Airways Via Abu Dhabi from Europe
Fly Dubai From Dubai
Gulf Air Via Bahrain or Abu Dhabi
Indigo Cheap Indian carrier
Jet Airways (India) Good through-service from London to Nepal via Delhi and Mumbai
Korean Airlines From the Far East
Nepal Airlines From Delhi, Bombay, Dubai and Hong Kong – for those with bags of time
Oman Air Via Muscat
Silk Air From Singapore
SpiceJet Low-cost Indian carrier
Thai Airways Via Bangkok, from Europe and Australia/New Zealand
Turkish Airlines Via Istanbul
Qatar Airways Via Doha from Europe
Virgin, BA and other major airlines To Delhi; then one of the Indian carriers to Kathmandu.
This information is, naturally, subject to change. Check the internet or your local travel agent for the latest information.
Overland routes to Nepal
There are several overland routes into Nepal from India and Tibet/China. Land borders with India are at Sonauli/Belahiya near Bhairahawa; Raxaul/Birgunj; Nepalganj; Mahendranagar; and Kakarvitta. The most-used entry point from India is the Sonauli/Belahiya border north of Gorakhpur. Buses connect Bhairahawa to Kathmandu and Pokhara. The Banbasa/Mahendranagar western border links Nepal to Delhi, but it’s a long journey by local transport. Those travelling between Kathmandu and Darjeeling or Sikkim use the eastern border at Kakarvitta.
Kathmandu is linked to Lhasa in Tibet by the Arniko/Friendship Highway through Kodari/Zhangmu. It is a spectacular three-to-four-day journey, climbing over several 5000m passes through Nyalam, Xigatse and Gyangtse to Tibet’s once-forbidden capital, Lhasa.
Getting to Dumre and Pokhara
Many trekkers fly to Pokhara – a short flight from Kathmandu. On a clear day, stupendous views of Langtang, Ganesh Himal, Himalchuli, Manaslu and the Annapurnas grace the northern frontier. Airlines serving Pokhara (roughly US$115 single) include Yeti Airlines/Tara Air, Buddha Air and Goma Airlines, departing from the domestic terminal next to the international airport. Planes to Jomsom depart from Pokhara soon after dawn, so an overnight stay in Pokhara is necessary.
Travelling to Pokhara (200km) by bus is quite straightforward these days, since the road has been improved all the way. The normal journey time is six to eight hours, but traffic can get heavy in the afternoon if you are heading back towards Kathmandu. The most luxurious bus is currently the Greenline service: US$25 including a great lunch at the Riverside Springs Resort about halfway to Pokhara. Other slightly less comfortable (but generally reliable) tourist buses depart around 7am from Kantipath near Thamel. ‘Local’ buses, which are even cheaper, leave from the Gongabu bus depot, northwest of the city, but are only recommended for those wishing to rub shoulders (and more) with the locals and their animals all day. The taxi fare to the bus depot is normally more than the bus ticket, so there is little to recommend this option. Local buses often stop in Mugling, an infamous, scruffy village 110km west of Kathmandu – eating lunch here has its risks. In days gone by, dishes of ‘hepatitis and rice’ were served up.
The road plummets steeply down after leaving the Kathmandu Valley. On a clear day you will see Ganesh Himal, Himalchuli and maybe Annapurna II. The road descends through Naubise then soon follows the Trisuli River, passing through Charaudi, Malekhu and Majhimtar. Buses continue past the Manakamana cable car station for the temple shrine, and on to Mugling. Rafting parties can be observed
