committing to a multi-day route!
Looking back up Perry Dale (Route 14)
Cycle hire
Details of bike hire centres in the Peak District can be found at www.peakimages.co.uk (under ‘Cycling’ in the main menu). Proof of identity and a deposit may be required, and helmets may or may not be provided – check with the individual centre for more information. A pump and (perhaps) a limited toolkit (enough to change a punctured inner tube) should also be provided but you may need to ask for these. Prices vary according to spec of bike and location, and change over time.
Cycling technique
If you’re new to cycling, and particularly off-road riding, the following tips may help.
Off-road uphill
When riding uphill over rough ground, the most important factor tends to be maintaining just enough speed to overcome gravity on each rough rock or pebble. This can be fatiguing, especially if your gears or saddle are set too high or low respectively. Try and remain firmly sat on the saddle (weight here is an advantage against rear wheel spin, which is more of an issue if you stand up on the pedals), with legs spinning as fast as possible. As getting going again is much harder than keeping going on ground that you could have (just) kept moving on, try not to stop at all! If you do need to re-start, try using your second- or third-lowest gears, to avoid wheel spin.
Off-road downhill
There is no doubt that sharp brakes and wider grippy tyres add significantly to downhill confidence and comfort, but you can also help yourself with where you look and your position relative to the bike.
Always look where you want to go – not at the rock, rut or other obstacle you wish to avoid. The bike tends to magnetically follow your viewpoint, so staring fixedly at the thing you wish to avoid is almost guaranteed to result in hitting it, whereas staring at the line you wish to take regardless of obstacles to the side usually works well.
Stand up on the pedals with your knees bent flexibly, balancing your weight equally but fluidly between your feet. Move your centre of gravity backwards so that your bum is at the back of, or even partially behind the saddle, with your thighs loosely gripping the saddle for a bit of control. Keep your arms in a loose and flexible grip on the handlebars: the more you can allow your body’s position to compensate for the bike’s movement as it bounces underneath you, the more stable and relaxed the descent will feel (in other words, keeping your body stiff and rigid is a bad thing!) The bike knows where it’s going (well, mostly!) and if you let it get there you may well be surprised at what it (and you) can actually do!
Oh, and try to avoid turning and braking at the same time! Individually is best, but if you need to do both, try braking in a straight line then turning with the brakes mostly released and pedalling gently, then brake some more if needed.
On the High Peak Trail near Brundcliffe (Route 2)
On-road
Confidence comes with practice, but the following advice may help.
You should normally be cycling roughly 50–100cm from the kerb – ie ‘a drain and a bit more’ away. It may feel counter-intuitive, but this is much safer than being right in the gutter next to the kerb! Not only does this position keep you out of the worst of on-road debris and slippery drain covers, it also improves driver awareness of your existence.
You should not normally need to ‘claim the lane’ (where you make it impossible for other road users to pass) as this can antagonise drivers needlessly. However, if someone trying to pass would put you in danger (typically at busy junctions and in urban areas), this can be the safest position to ensure you have a clear route to complete your turn in. This is advanced technique, but worth looking up or getting tuition on if you’re not already aware of it.
When passing parked cars, be aware of the size of their doors, and allow sufficient room for one to open without knocking you off if they open as you pass.
Know who has right of way at junctions: in simple terms, if your movement will make you cross the straight-ahead path of someone else at a junction, then you normally have to give way to them. So if you’re exiting from a minor road, you have to give way to road users on the major road. If you’re turning right from a major road into a minor road, you have to give way to other users on the major road coming towards you, but you usually have right of way over someone turning out of the minor road. Again, if in doubt get some tuition – many county councils now offer a few hours’ free rider instruction by qualified cycling instructors.
Always be aware of other traffic around you, and look before making any changes to your direction or forward progress. That includes listening: your ears are surprisingly sensitive to direction and speed of other traffic. Earphones can be particularly dangerous for blocking out this sense of traffic.
Make sure you signal your intentions clearly and with plenty of time for other road users to see you and what you intend to do.
Always expect the unexpected!
What to wear
Newcomers to cycling would be forgiven for thinking head-to-toe Lycra in lurid racing team colours is essential, judging by the attire of some road cycling clubs. Fortunately this is not essential to your pedalling enjoyment, although there are certain items of clothing that will make your ride more comfortable and therefore more enjoyable. It is, however, fair to say that on multi-day tours the advantage of Lycra for speed of washing and overnight drying can’t be beaten. (Even if racing team adverts adorning it are entirely unnecessary!)
Jacket
The weather can change notoriously quickly in the Peak District, especially on higher ground, and a sunny day can very rapidly become windy and wet. A lightweight, breathable and quick-drying jacket that is both windproof and waterproof will make poor weather much more bearable. If it’s in a hi-visibility colour such as yellow or orange, with reflective patches, this can make you more visible on-road to other motorists in sudden downpours or poor light. Being breathable is important to allow sweat created going uphill (or into strong winds) to escape.
Cycling shorts
Cycling-specific (padded) shorts make the effort of cycling much more comfortable – particularly for those new to cycling or on longer routes. These only used to be available in close-fitting Lycra, but these days mountain biking versions in other fabrics can be much more stylish and loose-fitting. Many cyclists wouldn’t ride without them! Many also suggest that these should be worn ‘commando-style’ (without underwear); if this doesn’t appeal, then one secret to making underwear work under cycling shorts is to ensure it’s a wicking fabric (not cotton), side-seam free and with smooth edges.
Looking down towards the Harrop and Colne valleys from moorland above the Standedge cutting (Route 19; TdPD, Day 3)
Cycling gloves
These can make your arms more comfortable (especially gloves with gel-filled patches) – particularly on off-road sections, where vibrations through the handlebars are more intense – and will protect fingers to some extent if you’re unlucky enough to
