this place.
We started off in the bustling Muslim quarter. With all the ancient buildings and sites, Dad was totally in his element. For the first time in my life, I got an idea of why he was so popular with his students: he really had a way of making history come alive.
“This is the Damascus Gate, which was originally built by the Romans,” he explained. “And over here is the Via Dolorosa, the path where it’s believed Jesus walked carrying his cross. And down this way is the Dome of the Rock, a mosque that dates back to the seventh century. It’s one of the most important sites in all of Islam.”
Normally, I wasn’t too interested in religious buildings, but this one took my breath away. I had seen it before in photographs of Jerusalem, resting on top of the city like a gleaming crown. But up close, it was so much more magnificent. Covered in intricate blue, gold, and white mosaics, it was topped off with a gigantic golden dome that shone brilliantly in the bright Israeli sunlight.
It was a pretty hot morning, and the heat intensified as the day went on. Every minute the sun rose higher in the sky, I could feel it burning deeper and deeper into my skin. I tried to tell myself that heat was better than cold and I was lucky to be missing the Canadian winter this year. But in this kind of heat, even the thought of snow and sleet and slush was refreshing. As we walked, I drank a lot of water and tried to think cool thoughts.
Polar bears … tobogganing … ice fishing … snowball fights … wind chill factors…
It didn’t help much.
After wandering around for a while, we suddenly found ourselves in the Arab market, or “souk,” as it was called here. We paused at the entrance and watched the hustle and bustle for a few minutes. The crowds were thick with all kinds of people: American tourists in their baseball caps and fanny packs, women covered in scarves, and men with heads draped in black-and-white checkered fabric.
I closed my eyes and took in a deep breath of the exotic market air. It was absolutely bursting with smells: spices, coffee, smoke, ripe fruit, and vegetables. I opened my eyes again and stared down the long, sloping path of the market. It was lined with hundreds of vendors balancing on rickety chairs outside their shops. Some of them were so ancient-looking their faces seemed like they’d been sculpted out of rubber. I knew it wasn’t polite, but I just couldn’t stop staring at them. They looked as old as the city itself — like they’d been sitting there on those chairs since the beginning of time. And they were selling just about every kind of merchandise imaginable: copper, gold, and silver jewellery; ceramics; fabric; clothes; shoes; pastries; produce; spices; and every souvenir under the sun.
Their cries were piercing as we strolled by their stores.
“Hallo, Hallo!”
“Come take a look!”
“Please, please — you want souvenirs?”
“Right here, best prices in Jerusalem!”
“Hey, it’s past lunchtime. Do you want to try a falafel?” Dad asked, pointing to a nearby stand. “It’s, like, the national dish here.”
I walked over to take a closer look. Just like on the first day we arrived, an overwhelming aroma of spice and frying oil wafted under my nose. A skinny, dark man with a chipped front tooth was putting brown, deep-fried balls of mashed-up chickpeas into a pita pocket and covering the whole thing with sauce and vegetables. Of course, I’d seen falafels back in Toronto … but I’d never actually eaten one before.
“C’mon,” Dad said, pulling out his wallet. “I’ll have one if you will.”
“Um, okay.”
I was getting hungry, and Dad’s sense of adventure was contagious.
“Where are you from?” asked the skinny man as he stuffed my pita full to bulging. “Let me guess: England? Australia?”
“No,” I replied timidly. Nobody had ever asked me that question before. “We’re from Canada.”
“Ahhhh!” he nodded. “My cousin lives in Canada. He says it’s very cold there.”
“Yeah, sometimes,” I laughed, wiping the sweat off my forehead with the back of my hand. I felt like saying, Dude, anywhere in the world would probably seem cold compared to this place!
“There you go — enjoy!” he grinned, handing me his stuffed creation.
With a polite “thank you,” I took a small bite and chewed it cautiously, waiting for my taste buds to make a decision. The falafel was crunchy, hot, spicy … and surprisingly tasty.
“It’s good!” I proclaimed, taking another bite. Dad beamed with pleasure, like the falafel somehow justified this whole move to the Middle East.
We finished our lunch and took our time strolling, browsing, and taking in all the incredible sights of the market. After poking around for a couple of hours, we ended up on a stone terrace overlooking the Western Wall — an ancient, open-air synagogue where tons of people had gathered to pray.
“This is the holiest site in the Jewish religion,” Dad explained as we gazed down on the crowd. “This one wall is all that remains of the ancient Temple of Jerusalem. It’s been standing for more than two thousand years.”
Standing a fair distance back, I strained my eyes and tried to see what all the fuss was about. The Wall looked old, fragile, proud.
“Maybe we can go and take a closer look,” I suggested.
But Dad shook his head and pointed down to our shorts and tank tops. “Not today. You have to be covered up to go near the Wall. Next time, we’ll bring better clothes.”
I nodded silently as my thoughts flicked back to that return ticket.
No, Dad. There’s not going to be a next time.
On the fifth day, I was on my own while Dad went to meet some colleagues at the university. It was time to start exploring the neighbourhood. With Professor Anderson’s advice still fresh in my head, I was a bit apprehensive about leaving the apartment by myself. But in the end, I was more restless than nervous. I figured it would probably be safe enough to check out the local sights.
A few doors down from our building, I stumbled upon a little corner store that was like no other corner store I’d ever seen before in my life. There was no sign outside — no storefront name — just a door and a big cigarette advertisement marking the spot. I stepped inside to look around.
“Oh, wow!” I gasped under my breath. The entire store was just a tiny little hole in the wall, jam-packed with shelves that stretched from floor to ceiling. The shelves were stuffed with things like toilet paper, bags of chips, bottles of pop and water, cleaning products, and cigarettes.
A dark-skinned boy about my age stood behind a narrow counter laden with sweet rolls and candy. Even from a distance, I noticed his eyes. They were gorgeous — big and round, and the exact colour of caféau-lait. Although he looked tall, I still couldn’t help wondering how he was able to reach up to the top row of shelves that grazed the ceiling of his store.
Noticing me noticing him, the boy nodded and smiled at me. I smiled shyly back. I wanted to say hello, but didn’t know how.
