Walking in the Yorkshire Dales: South and West. Dennis Kelsall

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2: Upper Wharfedale

       Walk 7 Great Whernside

       Walk 8 Kettlewell and Arncliffe

       Walk 9 Buckden Pike

       Walk 10 Old Cote Moor Top from Buckden

       Walk 11 Buckden and Yockenthwaite

       Walk 12 Horse Head and Langstrothdale

       Walk 13 Oughtershaw Side

       Part 3: Littondale

       Walk 14 Arncliffe and High Cote Moor

       Walk 15 Old Cote Moor Top from Arncliffe

       Walk 16 Pen-y-ghent Gill from Litton

       Walk 17 Litton and the River Skirfare

       Part 4: Malhamdale

       Walk 18 Airedale and Weets Top

       Walk 19 Gordale, Malham Tarn and the Cove

       Walk 20 Malham Cove and Pikedaw Hill

       Walk 21 Mastiles Lane

       Walk 22 Fountains Fell

       Walk 23 Winterburn Reservoir

       Walk 24 Cracoe Fell

       Part 5: Dentdale and the Western Outliers

       Walk 25 Great Knoutberry Hill

       Walk 26 Wold Fell

       Walk 27 A Walk into Deepdale

       Walk 28 Great Coum

       Walk 29 Dentdale

       Walk 30 Calf Top and Middleton Fell

       Walk 31 Barbon Low Fell

       Walk 32 Gragareth and Great Coum

       Part 6: Around Ribblesdale

       Walk 33 Attermire Scar and Victoria Cave

       Walk 34 Langcliffe and Catrigg Force

       Walk 35 Plover Hill and Pen-y-ghent

       Walk 36 Upper Ribblesdale along the Ribble Way

       Walk 37 Ingleborough from Ribblehead

       Walk 38 Whernside from Ribblehead

       Walk 39 Gayle Moor and the Source of the Ribble

       Walk 40 Clapham and the Norber Boulders

       Walk 41 Ingleborough from Clapham

       Walk 42 Ingleton Falls

       Walk 43 Kingsdale

       Walk 44 The Yorkshire Three Peaks

       Appendix 1 Route summaries and suggestions for longer routes

       Appendix 2 Where to find out more

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      INTRODUCTION

      The Yorkshire Dales is like nowhere else in England, a place of intrinsic and striking beauty that owes its scenic qualities both to Nature and to Man. Bestriding the central Pennines, that broad range of hills erupting along the middle of the country and known to generations of schoolchildren as the ‘backbone of England’, it boasts a diversity of landscape and character that is hard to beat. Walkers trudging up the Pennine Way from the south into Craven leave the sombre mill valleys fragmenting the desolate, weather-beaten moors of West Yorkshire and East Lancashire to be greeted by a brighter, more intimate scene of interwoven horizons. Rolling green hills, broken here and there by rugged scars of white limestone, rise to a distant, higher ground dissected by deepening valleys. Further east and to the north, the wild moors dominate, but even here a varied geology of underlying rock breaks up their melancholic uniformity.

      It is perhaps perverse that, as an upland region, the Yorkshire Dales is named after its most low-lying elements. But, like the neighbouring Lake District, it is this complementary feature that determines its endearing uniqueness. Just as the Cumbrian mountains would be the less without scintillating tarns and lakes to reflect their awesome ruggedness, the character of the Dales hills relies on the gentle beauty that rises up from the long, deep and twisting valleys emanating from the core. Devoid of the dramatic impact of soaring peaks, knife edge ridges and great hanging valleys, the mountains here might otherwise be regarded as unremarkable with little to distinguish them from the other hills of the Pennine range, but their intimacy with the gentle valleys that they enclose is what truly sets them apart.

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      A feeling of remoteness in the Valley of Desolation (Walk 3)

      Despite the steep gradients that act as boundaries between the upper moors and the lowlands, it is often hard to define where the one begins and the other ends. Stroll in rich water-meadows beside a serpentine river flowing in a flat-bottomed valley or stride upon an airy plateau beneath vast, open skies and there is little doubt where you are. But walk from one to the other and the transition is often quite subtle. In many places, the neatly walled grazing pastures of the lower valleys climb high up the slope, sometimes intermingled with variegated woodlands that soften the craggy steps. In their higher reaches, the valley bottoms can often feel utterly remote from the rest of the world and have an untamed complexion that is more akin to the uplands. On the wildest of the tops, great morasses of peat hag and bog might stretch for miles, but even here the tendrils of ubiquitous stone walls are never far away, encompassing bleak tracts of land and signifying a belonging to some farm settlement in the valley far below.

      Ancient trackways and paths ignore these geographical divisions and connect this dale to that or lead up to small mines and quarries that were often as integral to a farming income as the cows’ milk and ewes’ wool. Although the contours of the land mean that summits are rarely visible from the valley floor and vice-versa, for much of the way

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