Wouldham Common sanity is restored on an undemanding walk to Blue Bell Hill, then it's down to Kits Coty House, the giant upright stones of another Neolithic burial chamber standing on a downland slope with far-reaching views across the Medway Valley.
East of Kits Coty a long stretch with few distant views delivers the North Downs Way to Detling, beyond which a sudden return to open country shows the vast expanse of the eastern Weald spread below. The trail tucks round the outline of Thurnham Castle, slopes down to rejoin the Pilgrims’ Way at Hollingbourne, and follows that gentle route for many miles above Harrietsham and Lenham, only just missing Charing – a village worth making a short diversion to visit. From there until Boughton Lees, you lose any meaningful association with the Downs but there are compensations, one of which is the crossing of Eastwell Park and an opportunity to look at the remains of St Mary's Church on the north shore of Eastwell Lake.
Direct route via Wye
The North Downs Way divides outside Boughton Lees and the continuing eastward option enters Wye, a lovely small town noted for its agricultural college, then climbs onto the downland crest for one of the finest sections of the whole walk. This hugs the scarp edge for a while across Wye Downs and Broad Downs, then deserts it in order to pass through Stowting. But soon after, another glorious stretch is encountered which takes the walk above Postling (where Joseph Conrad once lived), descends to Etchinghill, then up again to wind round the steep upper scarp above the gruesome marshalling yards of the Channel Tunnel Terminal. Ignoring this blot on the landscape the trail makes a loop round ancient Castle Hill, site of a 12th-century ring and bailey castle, before setting out on the final clifftop march that leads over Shakespeare Cliff and ends in Dover itself.
A shepherdess gathers her flock on Wye Downs
Dover Castle dominates the town as it has for 900 years (Stage 11 and Stage 12a)
The Canterbury Loop
The northern spur from Boughton Lees visits Chilham, one of Kent's most attractive villages, then Old Wives Lees, passing through acre after acre of orchard country on the way to Canterbury.
The architectural glories here are enough to tempt a delay, but pushing on takes the walk to Patrixbourne (whose church demands a brief visit), then across Barham Downs to Womenswold in the back country, continuing through pleasant but undownlike agricultural land to reach Shepherdswell. From here a final eight mile walk makes an exploration of gentle East Kent farmland that culminates in a remarkably easy entry into Dover, whose castle overlooks the town from a prominent site that has been fortified for nearly two thousand years.
Where to stay
A wide range of accommodation is available all along the North Downs Way, ranging through a handful of campsites, youth hostels and camping barns (independent hostels), to more frequent private bed and breakfasts (B&Bs), country pubs and a few high-priced hotels (for those who crave extra comforts). On each stage of the walk described in this guide an indication is made where, at the time of research, such accommodation could be found, but anyone planning to tackle the route end to end is advised to go online to visit www.nationaltrail.co.uk/northdowns and download current accommodation details.
During research for this edition, the YHA had only two hostels on or near the NDW. These were at Tanners Hatch (Stage 2) and Canterbury (on Stage 10a). Advance booking is advised for both, especially during school holidays and at weekends – details of addresses, facilities and telephone numbers are given in the YHA guide which comes free with membership – see Appendix A for the YHA National Office, or try www.yha.org.uk.
A welcome B&B on Detling Hill (Stage 7)
The decline in the number of YHA hostels along the North Downs Way is partly compensated for by the establishment of independent hostels or ‘camping barns’, of which there are currently three in the route's vicinity: at Puttenham (Stage 1), Coldblow east of Detling (Stage 8), and in Canterbury (Stage 10a). A handbook listing hundreds of independent hostels throughout the UK is published by The Backpackers Press, but for further information see www.independenthostelguide.co.uk.
Waymarking and accessibility
As a National Trail, managed jointly by Surrey and Kent County Councils with support from Natural England, the North Downs Way is adequately waymarked with arrows bearing an acorn symbol, and is well maintained and checked for obstructions. Since the first edition of this guide was published, scores of stiles have been replaced by kissing gates, direction signs made more evident, and the way improved and re-routed in certain places to make a safer crossing of some roads.
1 The NDW is clearly waymarked with the acorn symbol of a National Trail
2 Signposts appear at major junctions
3 Green metal footpath signs are common in Kent
4 This signpost at Wrotham indicates that the NDW is linked with the E2 European Trail
Walkers can expect reasonable conditions along the whole route. However, although it follows a series of defined rights of way, some sections are on bridleways shared with cyclists and horse riders and can be very muddy in inclement weather, while in other places the route travels along byways used by motorised traffic where extra care should be taken.
Colour-coded waymarks clarify the right of use of these various designations: yellow arrows indicate footpaths (walkers only); blue arrows show a bridleway (walkers, cyclists and horse riders); red arrows indicate a byway (all traffic).
When to go
No season need be out of bounds for the walker along the North Downs Way, so long as suitable clothing be worn, so whether you plan to walk the whole route end to end, or pick out isolated sections for day walks, consideration should be given first and foremost to conditions underfoot. Comfortable, well-fitting and weatherproof footwear is essential to the enjoyment of the walk, for you need to be prepared for all weathers at all times of the year. In summer no less than winter, rain and wind can have a chilling effect, especially when walking across unsheltered downland, and your choice of clothing should take this into account. Warm and waterproof outer garments ought to be carried or worn on every stage of the long walk.
Conversely, don't forget the effects of too much sun – so include a brimmed hat to protect head and neck, and use suncream too. A basic first aid kit to deal with cuts, scratches and blisters ought to be carried in the rucksack, together with food for the day, plenty of liquid refreshment, and Ordnance Survey maps for the area. Although a compass is not essential, one could be helpful in the unlikely event of your getting lost – as long as you know how to use it, that is.
Getting there – and back
Farnham and Dover are both served by
