The Greek Cypriots had hoped that British control would eventually help them achieve enosis. However, impatience grew and the Ethniki Organosi tou Kyprakou Agona (EOKA – National Organisation of Cypriot Fighters) was founded with the intention of ending British rule and achieving enosis. Between 1955 and 1958 EOKA carried out a series of attacks on the British military.
Turkish Cypriots only comprised a 17% minority of the population and they feared that if Cyprus achieved a union with Greece they would be excluded. Therefore they demanded taksim (partition), to divide the island between Greece and Turkey.
In 1960 Cyprus finally became independent, with Archbishop Makarios III becoming the first president of the Republic of Cyprus, but in 1963 serious violence broke out and the tensions between Greek and Turkish Cypriots increased. In 1964 a UN peacekeeping force arrived in Cyprus. Major General Peter Young drew a green line on the map, dividing the capital, Nicosia, between the Greek and Turkish. This later became known as the ‘Green Line’ and went on to divide the whole island.
In 1974 the Greek Cypriots, supported by the military junta in Greece, carried out a coup. In response, Turkey invaded the island. By 16 August 1974 the northern part – 37% of the island – was controlled by Turkey. The 190,000 Greek Cypriots that lived in the northern areas left their homes and lost their land and businesses as they fled to the south. Meanwhile, 50,000 Turkish Cypriots moved from the south to Northern Cyprus. A number of people were killed and many disappeared during the conflict, and the UN has controlled and patrolled the Green Line – which runs across the entire island – ever since.
In 1983 the Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus – a self-declared state recognised only by Turkey – was announced. In 2003, for the first time in almost 30 years, the border was opened, allowing Cypriots to visit the opposing parts. Since then several border crossing points have been opened, allowing Cypriots and tourists to travel around the island.
Cyprus joined the European Union as a de facto divided island in 2004. The whole of Cyprus is EU territory and Turkish Cypriots are classed as EU citizens as they are citizens of the Republic of Cyprus (an EU country) despite the fact that they live in a part of Cyprus that is not under the Republic’s government control. Since 2008 Southern Cyprus’ currency has been the euro, while in Northern Cyprus it is the Turkish lira. Today, Nicosia is the last divided capital in Europe.
Religion
Most Greek Cypriots (who make up nearly 80% of the island’s population) belong to the Orthodox Church of Cyprus, while most Turkish Cypriots are Sunni Muslims.
The Church of Cyprus is an autocephalous Greek Orthodox Church – meaning it has its own independent head bishop who does not report to any higher human authority. It is one of the oldest churches of this type. Ten of the churches built during the Byzantine period in the Troodos mountains are on the World Heritage List. Their steep-pitched wooden roofs are typical of the Troodos region, and some of the churches – for example Agios Nikolaos tis Tegis near Kakopetria – also have a second timber roof. The UNESCO-listed Byzantine churches are also known for their frescos; some of them – such as Asinou church near Nikitari – have their entire interior covered in these paintings.
Monasteries were generally built in the mountains, so that the monks who lived in them could be further from temptation and closer to God. Many of these buildings also contain great collections of frescos. When visiting a monastery or church in Cyprus, wear long trousers and cover your arms. Some monasteries have a selection of robes by the entrance for visitors to cover themselves up with.
When Cyprus fell under the Ottoman Empire in 1571, Turkish settlers arrived onto the island and brought their religion, Islam, with them. During the Ottoman period some churches were converted into mosques (for example the Lala Mustafa Pasha Mosque in Famagusta), creating unique and impressive constructions. These – especially the ones in Nicosia and Famagusta – can be visited by tourists. You will have to leave your shoes by the door and women have to cover their head with a headscarf. Many well-visited mosques offer headscarves for female visitors.
Although the Turkish Cypriots in Northern Cyprus are Sunni Muslims, most of them don’t follow their religion too strictly; they consume alcohol and women don’t cover their heads in public.
Getting there
View from the section between Kionia picnic site and Machairas Monastery (Walk 24)
There are plenty of direct flights from UK and many other European airports to Paphos and Larnaca/Larnaka in the south of the island. Shop around for the best deals. You could also check out the well-known tour operators; they offer package holidays, mainly for tourist resorts, but it’s possible to book flights only with them. Easyjet, Ryanair, British Airways, Jet2 and Thomas Cook all have direct flights from UK airports.
There are no direct flights to the northern part of Cyprus. Flights arriving at Ercan – the airport in Northern Cyprus – must travel via Turkey. If you choose this option you might face a longer travelling time. If you leave the airport you need a visa to enter Turkey; this can be obtained by completing an electronic application form. You don’t need a visa if you hold a British or EU passport and are only changing flights in Turkey. If you’re not a British passport holder, see www.mfa.gov.tr for visa requirements for Turkey and http://mfa.gov.ct.tr for Northern Cyprus.
For the fastest possible route to the north of the island, fly to Larnaca from where border crossing points are easily accessed. From the airport you can take one of the buses to Nicosia where you can cross the border on foot.
Ferries operate between Kyrenia/Girne and mainland Turkey – see Appendix B for booking details.
Border crossings
The northern part of the island – the Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus – is a self-declared state recognised only by Turkey. It is referred to as ‘Northern Cyprus’ by most outsiders, but the Greek Cypriots in the south consider it an occupied area. Since 2003 Cypriots from both sides have been allowed to visit the opposing parts, and tourists can easily visit both parts of the island.
Most tourists visit South Cyprus, but for walkers there are some peaceful and spectacular walking trails to be discovered in the north. However, to get there you might need a bit more planning (see ‘Getting there’, above). EU passport holders don’t need a visa to enter Northern Cyprus; some travel websites suggest that on entering Northern Cyprus it is necessary to fill out a form which is then stamped, but in 2016 there was no such form and it was only necessary to show passports.
There are several crossing points on the island. These are known by many different names, as Turkish, Greek and occasionally English place names are used, and they are also often referred to by the name of the nearest village. You can cross from the south to the north and vice versa on foot in Nicosia, at Ledra Palace Hotel and Ledra Street. There are five other crossing points: Limnitis/Yesilirmak, Astromeritis/Zodhia, Agios Dometios/Metehan and Pyla/Beyarmudu, Strovilia/Akyar.
The busy Ledra Street in Nicosia, lined with shops, cafés and restaurants, comes abruptly to the border crossing point. After presenting your passport to the two authorities you can continue on the very same street, but with a very different ambience. Many tourists visit both parts of the divided capital on the same day. If you want to continue towards the north, you can find minibuses departing to Kyrenia from North Nicosia just outside the old city walls. Many car hire companies offer a pick-up service if you decide to cross the border on foot, and taxis are also available.
Some
