of the highest volcanoes and the highest free-standing mountain on the planet, making it a powerful visual symbol and a quintessential African image. Rolf Edberg was moved to write that ‘Its might is strangely weightless. At a distance, the mountain can seem ethereal. When the sun is low and the clouds light, the mountain with its white shimmering cap seems at times to be floating in space. At such moments, Kilimanjaro seems almost supernatural in its beauty.’
For a lot of trekkers arriving at Kilimanjaro International Airport, the first stop for many on their way to the mountain, it can be quite a shock to be confronted by this new image of Africa. The massive bulk of the country’s highest peak dominates the surrounding savannah, looming over it like a colossus. Walking on the high mountains of East Africa banishes the notion that the continent is only covered in stereotypical tawny grasslands. As a result of its tremendous height and its location on the equator, Kilimanjaro’s slopes are home to lush tropics, temperate climes and alpine moorland, as well as barren high-alpine desert and permanently snow-capped summits.
The rounded, glacier-clad dome of Kibo (one of the three main volcanic cones that make up Kilimanjaro) is home to Uhuru Peak, the mountain’s summit, while the shattered, jagged spires of Mawenzi, Kilimanjaro’s second summit, rear up across the blasted, desolate saddle. At 5895m, Uhuru Peak is the highest point on the African continent and, consequently, one of the coveted Seven Summits. Yet it is possible to reach the Roof of Africa without any technical climbing ability. Would-be mountaineers hoping to top one of the Seven Summits naturally gravitate towards Kilimanjaro. With its readily accessible, non-technical slopes, abundance of porters and relatively mild weather, the climb to the summit is considered a moderately easy ascent in mountaineering circles. Climbers with a decent level of fitness, positive attitude and a body that acclimatises to altitude reasonably well have a good chance of success: nowhere else on earth is it possible to scale a mountain of such height without crampons, ice axes and a healthy fear of losing a few fingers to frost bite.
Yet surprisingly large numbers of people fail to make it to the top. Kilimanjaro is a massive personal challenge in defiance of the extreme altitude. Walkers climbing the mountain move through half a dozen environments and climate zones from tropics to polar, and back, typically in the course of only five or six days. By going up so quickly, you break all the rules of mountaineering, yet convention, the types of ascent typically offered by outfitters and the cost of spending each day on the mountain mean that climbers are willing to jeopardise their success by rushing to altitude.
However, the ascent is intensely gratifying and enlightening. Those who visit are amply rewarded by what they encounter: diverse and colourful scenery, stunning natural beauty, endemic flora, warm and friendly locals and a unique sense of isolation. This last impression is reinforced by the knowledge that only a little more than 150 years ago this vast mountain was part of geographers’ legend and remained unseen or unclimbed by Europeans. A giant glacier-capped colossus slap up against the earth’s hot equator seemed so improbable that in 1849 a German missionary hurried back to Europe with news of his sighting, only to be ridiculed. Verification took another 12 years. It had yet to be conquered by 1886, when Victoria had the border between British and German East Africa redrawn to gift Kilimanjaro to her cousin, the future Kaiser Wilhelm.
There is no independent trekking on Kilimanjaro and every ascent of the mountain must be made in the company of a licensed guide, who will inevitably be accompanied by a team of cooks, assistants and porters. These days it would be a stretch to describe Kilimanjaro as off-the-beaten path. Nonetheless, the mountain wears its celebrity lightly and an ascent of Kilimanjaro remains a gruelling classic trek with magnificent views that are unmatched in Africa. The real magic of the mountain is its stunning beauty and fascinating natural history. To make the most of your trek, walk slowly with your eyes open and you’ll come home with something far more important than a summit certificate.
PREPARATIONS AND PRACTICALITIES
View from Kibo Huts across the Saddle towards Mawenzi (Marangu Route)
Choosing a route
This book is a guide to all of the official trekking routes on Kilimanjaro. It describes in depth the six approach routes through the forest and heath/moorland zones, the Circuit Path (which offers an alternative to ascending to the mountain’s top and circumnavigates Kibo at 4000m) and the three summit routes leading to Uhuru Peak. It also details the available descent routes on the mountain. Each of these routes varies in terms of length, difficulty, what you will see along the way and of course cost but each will reward the visitor with stunning panoramas and an incredible variety of scenic wonders. All walkers must follow one of these established paths and note that some routes are ascent or descent only. Trekkers must be accompanied by a licensed guide.
Following the initial trickle of climbers to these slopes, the number of people attempting to reach the highest point in Africa has, according to the latest statistics available from Kilimanjaro National Park authorities, risen to around 60,000 per year, two thirds of whom tackle the Marangu and Machame routes. Such a statistic may horrify you, and conjure images of immense crowds, cramped campsites and litter strewn, eroded trails, but thankfully the reality is very different and every visitor to the slopes ought to strive to ensure that this remains the case.
Kibo seen above the camp at Mweka Hut on the Mweka Route
It is essential to select the route that is most appropriate for you. Be aware of the scenic variety, remoteness and popularity of each route, but most importantly, when choosing your ascent route, be aware of the degree of difficulty of that route. Don’t let a false sense of bravado or an overestimation of your ability allow you to select a route that is beyond your capabilities. If you are inexperienced, less fit, have never been to altitude or have previously struggled at altitude, you should tend towards one of the easier routes and consider the Marangu or Rongai Route with a summit ascent via the Marangu Route from Kibo Huts, or a longer approach such as the Lemosho Route that gives you more time to acclimatise.
If you are fitter, have some experience of walking and being at altitude you may wish to consider the Machame, Shira or Lemosho approach routes coupled with an ascent to the summit via the Barafu Route. If you are very fit and properly acclimatised you might like to consider one of the tougher ascent routes, such as the Umbwe Route, in conjunction with an assault on the Western Breach.
Tropical montane cloudforest at an early stage on the Marangu Route
Marangu Route
Historically the most common ascent was via the Marangu Route. This relatively easy five-day trip ascends Kilimanjaro from the south-east. The lower sections provide fine forest and moorland walking. The lunar landscape of the Saddle then leads to the foot of Kibo, from where the final summit bid is undertaken via the Normal/Marangu Route. You descend this route by retracing your steps. This is the only route on which all overnight stops are made in purpose-built huts. Since this is the shortest and cheapest route on the mountain, it is frequently very busy and there is the risk that the facilities along the trail can become stretched. It also has the lowest success rate on the mountain.
Machame Route
These days, the most popular ascent route is the Machame Route. This longer, six-day climb is harder and more spectacular. It climbs Kilimanjaro from the south-west and enjoys some of the finest forest and heath/moorland scenery on the mountain. The final push to the summit is via either the tricky Western Breach or, more usually, the Barafu Route. The stipulated descent route for this path is the Mweka Route. With its new crown as most commonly tackled route on the mountain, this path is no longer
