more outbreaks of plague and poor harvests resulted in unrest among the poorer inhabitants, while the merchant classes began to benefit from an increase in trade with the newly established colonies in North America and India. The aristocracy still controlled much of the land, and many now renovated their châteaux in the Italianate style of the Renaissance, for there was no longer a need for heavy fortifications. Despite this inequality, the French Revolution did not have such a dramatic effect in the south-west as it did on places closer to Paris. Although many châteaux and churches were plundered, the aristocracy were often able to flee or hide without being captured, some even returning years later to buy back their family homes. But with it the Revolution brought administrative changes throughout France, and in 1790 the old system of provinces was changed to that of départements (departments) with new names, the province of Périgord thus becoming the department of the Dordogne.
Renaissance façade of the Maison de la Boétie, Sarlat
While other parts of France experienced economic growth with the coming of the industrial revolution in the following century, the Dordogne remained a backwater, with no coal or mineral resources to exploit. Only Bordeaux and the towns along the river continued to prosper, the large gabarres transporting a variety of goods to the coast and onwards to Western Europe and the colonies. The opening of the Canal latéral linking the Garonne with the Canal du Midi in 1852 meant that boats could get from the Mediterranean to the Atlantic, although the river was used less and less for transporting goods once the railways arrived.
Rural areas became increasingly poor, and the farmers were badly hit in the 1870s when the deadly phylloxera beetle wiped out many of the extensive vineyards around Bergerac. Although some were gradually re-established, many farmers turned to tobacco-growing or sheep-rearing. But it was World War I that changed the rhythm of rural life irrevocably as thousands of young men left to perish in the north of France. This exodus continued during the Depression of the 1930s, and the population was further depleted by World War II. When the Germans occupied the whole of France and the Resistance Movement was formed, the isolated areas of the Dordogne afforded safe bases for its fighters, although there were savage reprisals, as everywhere in France, with many villages destroyed and their inhabitants killed.
Although agricultural production, especially of wine, tobacco and walnuts, continued to be important in the years following the war, more and more small farmers left the area, and buildings fell into disrepair. But this was not to last, for in the 1960s André Malraux, minister of culture, introduced an act to preserve historic monuments. He knew the Dordogne well, and chose Sarlat as the first town to benefit from this. More than 50 of the town’s buildings were carefully restored, followed by those in other towns and villages. At the same time the many châteaux and prehistoric sites were gradually opened to the public, and the first tourists began to arrive.
And this is when the British rediscovered the Dordogne, attracted by its mild climate and beautiful countryside, and by the slow pace of life. They bought up crumbling farms, manors and mills to renovate, seeing the area as an idyllic – and inexpensive – place to retire to, or for a second home to visit on extended holidays. The Dutch and the French themselves soon followed, and by the end of the century tourism had become a major industry.
People now flock in to wander round the unspoilt villages, visit the historic sites and taste the delicious regional specialities – and also, it is to be hoped, to explore the surrounding countryside on foot.
Busy main square at Sarlat
Plants and flowers
The Dordogne, with its mild climate and gentle rainfall, is an area where almost everything grows, and there is a richness of vegetation that you do not see with the dry hot summers further south.
In such a large area it is not surprising that there is considerable diversity in the vegetation. North of the river there is extended woodland which is mainly deciduous, with chestnuts, oaks, beech and hawthorn, the most striking being the false acacia with its hanging clusters of creamy flowers. Around Sarlat and Souillac you will find plantations of walnuts and oak trees, with truffles growing at their roots. Further south, on the limestone causse, are plants more usually associated with a Mediterranean climate, where you will find evergreen holm oak, juniper, broom and dwarf conifers.
A variety of cereal crops are cultivated, and around Sarlat you will still come across a few fields of tobacco and the long wooden barns where the leaves were hung to dry. This was once the largest tobacco producing area in France, although very little has been grown since 2013 when farmers stopped receiving subsidies for growing it. And of course there are the famous vineyards around Bergerac, where the countryside is flatter and the gentle slopes are covered in vineyards as far as the eye can see.
In addition to the variety of trees and crops, the region hosts an abundance of flowers. In springtime you will find primroses, violets, periwinkles and wood anemones, as well as early flowering bulbs such as snowdrops, wild daffodils, small yellow tulips and white Star of Bethlehem. Later in summer the woods are full of tall white asphodel lilies, and the open fields carpeted with ox-eye daisies, purple sage and aquilegias. The banks of rivers and streams are bright with yellow irises and marsh marigolds, with delicate fritillaries, water avens and a variety of tall rushes. On the rocky cliffs above the river bloom creeping plants such as saxifrage and stonecrop, and in the limestone areas of the warmer south you will find lavender, thyme and rosemary. The flowers continue into autumn, when you will frequently come across carpets of tiny pink cyclamen in the woods, and autumn squill in open areas.
The most exciting aspect of this area for any flower-lover in spring and early summer is the multitude of wild orchids in the fields and woods, not just the odd specimen but large clusters of them. Some of the most impressive are the tall lizard orchids and the lovely dark lady orchids. Many grow on grassy verges, where you will frequently see early purple, pyramidal, white butterfly and fragrant orchids, whereas red and white helleborines thrive in shady woodland. Other less common varieties are the purple loose-flowered orchids, the curious tongue orchids and the ophrys varieties of bee orchid.
Clockwise from left: Lady orchid, Wild tulips, Pyramidal orchid, autumn flowering Cyclamen, Star of Bethlehem.
Suggested books:
A Naturalist’s Guide to the Wild Flowers of Britain and Northern Europe, by A Cleave and P Sterry (John Beaufoy Publishing)
Field Guide to Orchids of Britain and Europe, by Karl Peter Buttler (Crowood Press)
Wild Flowers of the Mediterranean, by David Burnie (Dorling Kindersley Eyewitness Handbook)
Wildlife
The Dordogne has a history of hunting dating back to medieval times, when knights galloped out of their castles to shoot deer and wild boar, which were plentiful in the vast forests. Over the centuries the wildlife was decimated, but fortunately the recent ecology movement has had a positive result. Although hunting continues, and you will frequently come across tall hunting platforms in the woods for spotting game, there is now a defined hunting season, for both animals and birds.
A hunting platform in the woods near Monestier (Walk 4)
Wild boar still live in the woods, and red and roe deer in more open areas. The red squirrel, so rare in England, is frequently seen here, and you may be lucky enough
