style="font-size:15px;"> Spiritual Variant (Variante Espiritual)
An exceptionally scenic route between Pontevedra and Padrón, culminating in an optional boat ride following the maritime Translatio route which the boat carrying St James’ body and his disciples is believed to have sailed along in AD44.
Distance (taking the boat): 46.1km – allow 2–3 days, depending on the boat schedule
Distance (all walking): 77.9km – allow 3 days
Other routes
The following Portuguese routes are not described in this guide:
Fátima route – Caminho de Tejo and Caminho Nascente
The Central Camino from Lisbon follows both blue Fátima waymarks and yellow Santiago waymarks until Santarém, where the two routes split. It’s possible to walk from Santarém to Fátima in two days (58km) then one day from Fátima to Tomar (29.5km), rejoining the Central Camino for Stage 7. This is a beautiful yet challenging mountainous Camino; for more information see www.caminho.com.pt
Braga route – Caminho de Braga
This route starts in Porto and travels to the Roman city of Braga, home to Portugal’s oldest cathedral, before joining the Central Camino in Ponte de Lima (Stage 18).
Interior route – Caminho Interior
Starting in Viseu, the interior route travels north through Chaves, crossing into Spain near Verín, then connects with the Camino Sanabres leg of the Vía de la Plata.
Other factors
There are other factors to take into consideration when choosing your Camino.
Budget
The number of albergues is increasing year on year and there are plenty from Porto onwards. Between Lisbon and Porto some nights in a private hostel or pension will be unavoidable. Expect to pay between €5 and €8 for albergues and between €10 and €25 for hostels and budget accommodation. Food is generally cheaper in Portugal than Spain and if you’re travelling as a couple you may even be able to share evening meals as portions are large.
Pastel de nata: sweet pastries, difficult to resist along the Camino!
Physical fitness
With just a few exceptions, there is no great elevation gain; there is, however, a considerable amount of walking on paved and cobbled paths/roads which can be hard on your feet – especially when walking for 6–7 hours, day after day. Some stages may require you to walk more than 25km per day on consecutive days, so a general level of fitness is required. Try to build up your fitness at home by walking on consecutive days and carrying your full pack; this way you can address any niggles and sore spots before starting. The most common problems are blisters, dehydration and back-ache from carrying too much weight, but these issues can be remedied by stopping as soon as you feel a hot spot and applying a plaster, keeping your fluids up and packing as light as possible. Always listen to your body and rest when you need to.
Essential pilgrim information
Credential and stamps
Credential, scallop shell and Compostela
Typically, pilgrims collect stamps (carimbo/sello) in a credential, which is required in order to stay in albergues, and also acts as proof of your pilgrimage, enabling you to receive the Compostela (certificate of completion of pilgrimage) in Santiago.
The all-important credential is available in the following places:
Lisbon
cathedral, open Sun–Mon 9am–5pm, Tues–Sat 9am–7pm
Basílica dos Mártires on Rua Serpa Pinto, open Mon–Fri 9am–7pm, Sat–Sun 10am–7.30pm
Porto
cathedral, open daily 9am–6.30pm (closed Sunday 12.30–2.30pm)
Tui
cathedral, open daily 10.45am–1pm & 4–8pm (May–Jun); Mon–Sat 10.45am–8pm, Sun 10.45am–1pm & 4–8pm (Jun–Sep); daily 10.45am–1pm & 4–7pm (Sep–May)
If you want to leave home equipped with a credential, contact the pilgrim association nearest you. There is a directory of associations at www.caminodesantiago.gal (English-language option available). You can also purchase one from the store on this popular Camino forum: www.santiagodecompostela.me
You need to collect at least one stamp per day (two during the last 100km) in your credential to be eligible for the Compostela. Stamps can often be obtained from albergues, churches, turismos (tourist offices), Junta de Freguesia (parish board)/Câmara Municipal (city hall) in Portugal, museums, cafés, bars, restaurants, government buildings and many other businesses.
Shell
This is a symbol of St James that is carried by many pilgrims, often attached to backpacks. In book five of The Codex Calixtinus, the first ever ‘Pilgrim’s Guide’ written in the 12th century about the Camino Frances, there is a record of shells being sold to pilgrims outside Santiago Cathedral. There are many legends relating to how and why the shell became the symbol of St James; one states that as the boat carrying his martyred body approached Galicia, it hit a storm and he was washed overboard only to be found on a beach covered in scallop shells. It is also thought pilgrims used the shell as a scoop for food and water.
If desired, shells can be obtained from Lisbon at the Alpriate Albergue (end of first stage from Lisbon, a plastic version); Porto at the Arte Sacra shop opposite Clérigos Tower, Rua da Assunção no.36; Tui at the Baixo Minho shop on Rúa Ordóñez; or online from www.santiagodecompostela.me
Compostela
This is the official certificate confirming your pilgrimage, provided you fulfil the following requirements: you walked at least the last 100km to Santiago (from Tui on the Central Camino or Vigo on the Coastal Camino); you have a stamped credential (with at least two stamps per day in the last 100km); your motivation for walking was spiritual or religious. Pilgrims with different motivations will receive a document called the ‘certificado’.
The Compostela is available in Santiago from the Pilgrim’s Office, Rúa Carretas no.33.
Pilgrim etiquette
It’s worth remembering at the end of a long day when you’re possibly tired, hungry, aching and longing for a bed, that many of the people working in albergues are volunteers who have given up their time to help you. Perhaps the albergue is full and you have to keep walking, but don’t despair: the Camino has a way of providing and you may end up with a great story to tell. Respect your fellow pilgrims and the locals, and cherish the incredible
