322: Annandale, Annan, Lockerbie & Beattock
Sheet 337: Peebles & Innerleithen
Sheet 338: Galashiels, Selkirk & Melrose
Sheet 345: Lammermuir Hills
Sheet 346: Berwick-upon-Tweed, Eyemouth & Duns, St Abb’s Head & Cockburnspath
*Sheet 318 is unnecessary if Sheet 319 and Sheet 320 are used, as there is sheet overlap.
The route of the SUW is clearly shown on these Explorer maps as a line of green diamond symbols.
Waymarking and navigation
The entire length of the SUW is waymarked with a white Scottish thistle symbol, identical to that used on other Great Trails in Scotland (West Highland Way (WHW), Great Glen Way and Speyside Way). These waymarks appear most often on wooden posts, which usually also carry yellow directional arrows. Where the Way crosses public roads and at other important junctions along the route, SUW signposts have been erected. In general within Dumfries & Galloway these signposts are of wood, whereas in the Borders Region they tend to be of metal, and painted green.
First SUW signpost – Portpatrick (Stage 1) (photo: Alan Castle)
Other Trail ‘furniture’ includes ladder stiles and stone stiles over dry stone walls (called ‘dry stane dykes’ in Scotland), and small gates in fences, these having largely replaced the original wooden stiles. These are quite numerous and are generally in good condition, as are the many wooden bridges and short sections of duck boarding (the latter over boggy areas) found along the Way. In recent years, many stiles have been eliminated by using a metal field gate which incorporates a small, latching gate for walkers. I have referred to these in the route description as ‘combination-gates’. Such a gate can act as an indicator that you’re probably on the correct route, as can a sign saying ‘please close the gate SECURELY’.
Never cross walls or fences except at the indicated points, where stiles or gates are always to be used. The wooden stiles and duck boarding can be very slippery, particularly when wet or icy. Many are protected by non-slippery surfaces, or wire netting, although in some cases these are too old and worn to be completely effective. The ground is sometimes rough and overgrown with long reed grasses and other vegetation, particularly during the summer months, so that care is required when placing your feet in order to avoid ankle or knee sprains, or worse. Occasionally, due to a breakdown in the original drainage, the path may vanish into a swampy section. Here, the original firm surface is still there, a few inches below. It is worth probing for this with a walking pole, rather than diverting into apparently drier ground to left or right. So, do take care: alertness and concentration are major factors for a safe journey along the SUW.
Following the Way in good conditions is generally straightforward, but does require some skills in map-reading and compass work. On some sections across open moorland the path is quite faint, and the lack of a single waymark (perhaps knocked over by a scratching cow or by a human from a nearby settlement) can leave the walker at a loss. Care is also needed on the upland sections of the Trail when hill fog covers the landscape. Inadvertently drifting from the line of the Way could lead to disastrous results in some of the large and featureless expanses of hill and moorland through which it passes. Be vigilant in navigation at all times, particularly in inclement weather conditions. Only experienced hill walkers should contemplate leaving the Way to take in nearby hills or following their own alternative routes. Waymarking elsewhere in the Southern Uplands is largely non-existent, and there are few paths other than those formed by the use of quad bikes by shepherds in recent decades.
Lead mining ruins, Wanlockhead (Stage 7)
It is advisable to take along additional maps to those provided in this guidebook (see the section on Maps, above) and a compass should most definitely be carried – and of course, you need to know how to use it. A GPS device is not an essential item of equipment, but some may find it a comfort to carry one, and such a device would certainly be useful in mist, particularly if high level alternatives or hill walks off the SUW are anticipated. A GPS would be useful if the route of the SUW is completely lost, in order to determine one’s position, but you should never rely on one of these instruments entirely; a map and compass are the fundamentals.
There have been a fair number of route changes over the years from the original line of the SUW. On the whole these route realignments, which are generally well waymarked, represent a considerable improvement to the Way, and for this the SUW rangers are to be congratulated. Two of the best examples are the new route over Craig Airie Fell (Stage 3) and the riverside on leaving Bargrennan (Stage 4); but the prize is the new high-level line over Capel Fell (Stage 9).
SUW INFORMATION BOARDS
At regular intervals along the length of the SUW the Rangers have erected very informative boards detailing various aspects of the Way and the surrounding countryside, enclosed within a tiny rain-proof shelter. Each board has specific information on the area in which it is situated. The locations of the many SUW information boards are given in the various route sections of the Trail Guide.
During 2005, as part of the celebrations of the 21st Anniversary of the SUW (opened in April 1984), 13 artist-made boxes called ‘kists’ were hidden at locations along the SUW, one on each of the (then) 13 stages. Inside each box is a hoard of special ‘waymerks’, small lead or copper tokens marked with tiny, minted images (a Merk was a Scots coin valued at 13s 8d). These represent some aspect of the archaeology, history or wildlife of the area of the hiding place. The Waymerks project has proved popular with people walking the Way in search of these special mementoes.
Access in Scotland
The Land Reform (Scotland) Act became law in 2005. This gives considerable statutory rights of access to virtually all open ground, including for wild camping: one of the most enlightened acts of its type in all Europe. But never forget that these rights of access come with important responsibilities. It is a good idea, if unfamiliar with walking in Scotland, to acquaint yourself with the access code by referring to the free leaflet entitled, ‘Scottish Outdoor Access Code – Know the Code before you go’, which is available from Tourist Information Centres in Scotland or online at www.outdooraccess-scotland.com.
Blackhouse (Stage 10) (photo: Alan Castle)
Ticks
Tick populations appear to be on the increase in the upland areas of Britain. Although the author encountered none on his last coast-to-coast crossing, there have been warnings from some other SUW walkers. The usual hosts of the tick are sheep and deer, but care should be exercised to avoid getting bitten yourself, as ticks are carriers of Lyme Disease, a serious condition. It should not be cause for great concern, nor spoil your walk, but do be aware of the problem; really only common sense is required.
Long trousers rather than shorts are advisable as ticks are most commonly picked up from vegetation along the route. Waterproof trousers or over-trousers are particularly recommended, as soaking wet and tall grasses and other dense vegetation will probably be frequently encountered. Even if it is not raining at the time, overgrown vegetation can remain very wet for a long time after a downpour and the extra leg protection
