fifteen minutes, arriving at 12:15 or 1:30PM, respectively.
Note that on some days (about half the departures), one of the ships continues from Tokunoshima to the port of China (知名; Chee-na) on the next island south, Okino-Erabujima. Those sailings depart between 12:30 and 2:00PM and arrive at China at 2:45 and 4:15PM. These less frequent sailings recommence their return journeys north between 3:00 and 4:30PM and start the cycle all over again.
For most ships terminating at Hetono, the return journey north begins at 12:45PM for the Amami and 1:55PM for the Kikai. Service is five days a week, Tuesdays through Saturdays, with occasional differences. Arrival time at Koniya is 3:10 and 4:20PM, respectively. Twenty minutes later, at 3:30 and 4:40PM, the ships depart and cruise north to Nazé, arriving at 5:40 and 7:00PM.
If you are traveling from Amami-Ōshima to Kikai, here’s when you’ll board. Tuesdays through Saturdays, one of the “A” Lines, the Amami departs Nazé at 6:10PM. The other, the Kikai, leaves at 7:20PM. Sailing time is about two hours, so you’ll arrive at Kikai’s Wan Port at 8:20 or 9:30PM.
To return to Kagoshima from Kikai, on Tuesdays through Saturdays you’ll board the Amami at 8:50PM and the Kikai at 9:50PM and cruise overnight, arriving Wednesdays through Sundays at Kagoshima at 8:00AM and 9:50AM, respectively. Note, and this is very important, on the days one of the ships makes the round-trip extension to China Port, the preceding times are extended by several hours. It's best to verify your actual shipping time prior to your date of departure.
Four-person berths aboard the Kikai.
Sugira Beach is popular for snorkeling and diving.
The Kikai Garden Golf Course.
The “Esplanado” path along Kikai’s western shore.
Kikai is popular for its good snorkeling and diving in safe, sheltered lagoons. Nakazato (中里; Naka-zato) is one of the most popular, with its long stretch of white sand. There are two tiny coral islands in the middle of the cove that are perfect for exploring. But Sugira Beach (スギラビーチ; Sugira bīchi) is the most convenient as it is close to town. The beach is part of the Airport Seaside Park (空港臨海公園; Kūkō rinkai kōen) and you can walk there from town. It’s located just behind the airport. There are changing facilities, toilets and showers at the beach.
As is the case with all the northern Ryukyus, swimming is best from late April through November since December to March is cool and often rainy. If you enjoy snorkeling, the waters of Kikai are perfect natural aquariums full of colorful fish and coral.
If you’re interested, next door to Sugira Beach and its children’s playground is Kikai’s only golf course. It’s a nine-hole set-up and guest privileges are available. It’s called the Kikai Garden Golf Course (喜界ガーデンゴルフ; Kikai gāden gorufu) and it’s located in between the airport and the beach. An errant wild shot has an equal chance of landing on the runway or in the ocean.
Before leaving this southwest section of the island, there’s one more thing worth mentioning. Just a little to the west of the end of the airport runway and Sugira Beach begins what is called the “Esplanado” (遊歩道; Esplanado). It’s a 1.5-mile-(2.4-kilometer)-long path running north to south along the island’s far western shore. It ends at Araki (荒木; Araki) village. It’s mostly coral and rock, but sections of the trail also go through dense banyan tree groves, and at one point there’s an observatory with splendid views of the sea. It’s a beautiful walk, one of the nicest you’ll find anywhere. It’s also Kikai’s best place to watch the sun set into the ocean. Incidentally, some signs refer to it by a rather longer name: the Arakinakasato Promenade (荒木中里遊歩道; Arakinakasato Esplanado).
There’s one more sightseeing attraction not far from this end of the island. A little less than a mile (2 kilometers) southeast of Araki, you’ll see signs for the Gajyumaru Big Banyan Tree (ガジュマル巨木; Gaju maru kyo boku). There’s no question about it, it’s big. And if you really like giant banyan trees, there’s a whole grove of them about halfway up the escarpment on the way to Nakanishi Park. It’s called the Couple Banyan Tree (夫婦ガジュマル; Fūfu gaju maru) and there are well over a dozen of them—all giants. The road goes right through it. We’ll drive there next.
At this point we’ve been more or less following Kikai’s circle-island road, Route 619, counter-clockwise. From the Giant Banyan to the Couple Banyans, it’s about 4 miles (6 kilometers). The road goes around the southernmost end of Kikai, then heads north along the east coast. Watch for the signs for the Couple Banyan and Nakanishi Park just after the village of Keraji (花良治; Keraji). The left-hand turn is less than half a mile (0.7 kilometer) north just after exiting the village. From the turn-off at Route 619, it’s a bit more than 1.5 miles (2.4 kilometers) up a twisting, winding road past the Couple Banyans to the Nakanishi Park.
You will crest the mountain and find yourself on the top of Kikai’s escarpmen. This spot is crowned by a little observation platform on the island’s highest point at 695 feet (212 meters) at Nakanishi Park (中西公園; Nakan-ishi kōen). On a clear day, you’ll get some splendid views looking down over the cultivated fields, the small villages and the unending expanse of the Pacific Ocean. Incidentally, if you look behind you to the west, you’ll see a fairly large barracks and an enormous circular something. It’s a Japanese military installation and the big circle is a “listening” post.
Gajyumaru Big Banyan Tree.
Nakanishi Park, the highest point on Kikai.
From Nakanishi Park, perhaps the scenic highlight of the island begins. There is a road, or you can hike along the trail, that follows the crest of the Kikai escarpment 3 miles (5 kilometers) north, all along the heights of the east coast of the island. This especially lovely drive terminates at the almost equally tall 666-feet (203-meter) Hyakunodai Park Observation Platform (百之台公園展望台; Hyaku no-dai kōen Tenbō-dai). From this vantage point there are great views towards the north of island. It truly is beautiful and you’ll wonder why more people don’t know about this island. But they don’t, so we’ll leave it at that.
From the northern end of the escarpment, there are several alternative routes that may be taken. There are many roads that crisscross over and through Kikai Island. Most of this part of Kikai’s mid-section is a fairly level but elevated plateau, and there are attractive villages scattered around even up here. For the most part, it’s all cultivated with sugar cane.
View of Kikai Island from the Hyakunodai Park Observation Platform.
The Tonbizaki Lighthouse near Cape Tonbi.
Let’s, however, stay on Route 619 and continue north to the top end of the island. As we do, we’ll gradually descend. The topmost third
