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Chujit
บัวลอยชูจิต, ถนนเยาวราช หนารานทองเซงเฮงหลี
STREETSIDE CART, YAOWARAJ ROAD, CHINATOWN
This streetside stall may not look like much but it serves up some of the best black grass jelly and black sesame-stuffed dumplings in the city. Try with gingko nuts donated by the nearby bird’s nest (rang nok) vendor.
GETTING THERE
On the Old Market side of Yaowaraj Road, in front of Seng Heng Lee Goldsmith
Tel 081-860-1053
Open 18.30–23.30 daily
SPECIALTY
Sesame-filled dumplings in ginger broth (bua loy nam khing), 30 baht; black grass jelly with shaved ice and syrup (chao guay), 15 baht
บัวลอยน้ําขิิง เฉากวย
OPTIONS
For black grass jelly: with gingko nuts (pae guay), 30 baht; gingko nuts only, 50 baht
NOTABLE EXTRAS
Ginger broth with tofu and fried dough, 15 baht
BEVERAGES
Chrysanthemum tea (geck huay), Chinese herbal beverage (lorhangguay), 20 baht; tofu milk (nam taohu), 10 baht
SEATING Yes
ON THE TABLE
Nothing but what you order
RESTROOM No
Than Ngi Hwood
ตัง้ หงีฮวดขา้ วตม้ เป็ด, 49 ซอยแปลงนาม ถา้ มาจากถนนเยาวราช อยูฝ่ ั่งขวา
SHOPHOUSE, 49 PLANG NAM ROAD, CHINATOWN
This shophouse serves a culinary rarity: duck rice porridge, a delicious and surprisingly light concoction that is heavy on the pepper and easy on the grease. While the atmosphere may be a bit solemn, the service is quietly solicitous.
GETTING THERE
On the right-hand side of the road if coming from Yaowaraj Road
Tel 02-227-6457, 086-751-9262
Open 10.00–21.00 daily
SPECIALTY
Duck porridge, 30 baht, 40 baht (extra duck). Extras: pork maw soup (krapho moo), 40 baht
ขาวตมเป็ ด
OPTIONS
Extra duck (piset), no duck blood (mai sai lued ped), no rice, only broth (gow low)
STANDARD TOPPINGS
Coriander, cubed duck blood, deep-fried garlic, pickled cabbage
BEVERAGES
Fresh water (nam plao), 10 baht; soft drink/carbonated beverage (nam atlom), 8 baht; Singha beer, 70 baht; Heineken beer, 80 baht; ice, 2 baht
SEATING Yes
ON THE TABLE
Toothpicks, fish sauce, vinegar with chilies, white pepper
RESTROOM
Western toilet, bowl of water to flush, no paper
Guay Jab Ouan Pochana
กวยจั๊บอวนโภชนา, ถนนเยาวราช หนาโรงภาพยนตรรามา
SHOPHOUSE, YAOWARAJ ROAD, CHINATOWN
Located in a former movie theater, this no-frills spot attracts a large night-time crowd with its brand of flat rice noodles in a clear, peppery pork broth. Try to arrive early to snag a table close to the chef (the man behind the steaming pile of pork trimmings).
GETTING THERE
In front of the Chinatown Rama movie theater on Yaowaraj Road
Open 18.00–3.00 daily
SPECIALTY
Hand-rolled Chinese noodles in pork broth (clear broth version), 30 baht; special serving or without noodles (gow low), 40 baht
กวยจั๊บน ้ําใส
OPTIONS
Pork (moo), pork entrails (krueang nai), without noodles (gow low)
NOTABLE EXTRAS
Rice, 5 baht
BEVERAGES
Chinese herbal beverage (lorhangguay), 15 baht; iced chrysanthemum tea (geck huay yen), longan juice (nam lamyai), lotus root juice (nam rak bua), 10 baht
SEATING Yes
ON THE TABLE
Condiment tray
RESTROOM
Squat toilet, no paper. Entrance fee of 5 baht, located upstairs, must walk down a dark hallway and unlock the padlocked door to enter
Lotchong Singapore
ลอดช่องสิงคโปร์, 680–682 สามแยกเจริญกรุง ตรงข้ามธนาคารเอเชีย (ยูโอบี)
SHOPHOUSE, 680–682 SAM YAAK CHAROEN KRUNG, CHINATOWN
This dessert vendor shares a space with a pork meatball noodle vendor. The lotchong, or green tapioca flour squiggles in coconut milk with shaved ice, is exemplary, an echo of the sweet treat all Thais loved as children.
GETTING
