era of the kingdom of Angkor, the cradle of Khmer civilization, when Cambodian cuisine forged its special identity. Here, cooking is an oral art that has been passed down over time from mother to daughter. It is from this ancestral rite that a traditional cuisine, punctuated by the use of natural ingredients, developed.
Thanks to the influence of other countries, Cambodian cooking has been enriched and expanded over the centuries. China introduced the steaming method and the use of soy and noodles and India introduced curries, to name but two examples. These influences contribute to the particularly wide range of flavors that surprise the palate and stimulate the taste buds. Salty and sweet, and downright bitter and sour, go hand in hand or are blended subtly, sometimes within a single dish, to create a deliciously harmonious and original result.
A Cambodian dish is a feast for the eyes as well as the palate, and the ingredients that compose it are like the colors on a painter’s palette: gleaming red chilies, bright green limes, orange shrimp, flecks of pure white coconut . . . the more harmonious the colors, it is thought, the more subtle the flavor of the finished dish.
Visitors are often surprised by the variety and quantity of fish products on the market in Cambodia. In addition to fresh fish, fish pickled in brine, salt fish, dried fish and smoked fish are also widely available. Fish are ground into complex pastes flavored with spices, crab, sticky black rice, vinegar, sugar and even sometimes unripe papaya. The original purpose of these delicious products was to provide a means of preserving the catch from the two major rivers in Cambodia—the Tonlé Sap and the Mekong. Fresh fish and fish products constitute the main source of protein for many families, and also contain valuable calcium, which is essential in Cambodia as there are no local dairy products.
The recipes in this book are simple and easy to produce. They require little preparation time and don’t involve any complicated techniques. Most of the ingredients can be found in your local supermarket and the more specific ingredients (including suitable Asian substitutes) can be found at the nearest Asian grocery or on-line.
Ingredient alternatives are provided in the Ingredient section (pages 8–11) and helpful tips are given within the recipes. Together, they will help you navigate this culinary adventure and ensure your success.
Basic cooking equipment can be used to cook Cambodian food at home. However, a mortar and pestle is the best tool for crushing whole spices and making spice pastes. Many of the recipes will specify “pounding” ingredients in a mortar and while a food processor is a sufficient substitute, a traditional mortar and pestle makes quick work with little clean up.
The recipes serve four people as a main course, however they can easily be cut in half to yield a smaller quantity or served with other dishes to feed a crowd.
Ingredients
Asian shallots are small and round and have a pinkish-purple color. Shallots add a sweet oniony flavor and a hint of garlic to countless dishes. They are also sliced, deep-fried and used as a garnish.
Banana flowers are the unopened male flowers of the banana plant—a purple-red inflorescence tinged with yellow at the base that hangs at the end of a clump of developing bananas. The hearts of these flowers, which have been stripped off their purple petals, are a popular salad ingredient in some Southeast Asia cuisines. Fresh, canned and dried banana flowers can often be found in specialty stores outside Asia, particularly those stocking Vietnamese and Thai ingredients. Choose a firm, large flower with an even color and check that the outer petals are not wilted. To prepare the flower for cooking, remove the coarse outer petals to reveal the creamy white heart. Quarter the heart lengthwise with an oiled stainless steel knife to avoid the sticky sap clinging to it. If not cooking immediately, soak in cold water or rub with lemon or lime juice to avoid discoloration. Simmer the cut heart in plenty of lightly salted water until tender, about 15 to 20 minutes. Drain, cool then pull out and discard the hard filaments inside each cluster of yellow stamens as they have an unpleasant texture. Cabbage leaves may be used as a substitute.
Banana leaves are used to wrap food for steaming or grilling. The moisture and flavor of the banana leaf makes a difference to the texture and flavor of the food, but if you can’t find fresh or frozen banana leaf, use aluminum foil. Before using to wrap food, the leaves should be softened for easy folding, either by soaking in hot water for 5 to 10 minutes or briefly heating over a low flame.
Basil Two types of basil are used in the recipes in this book: Holy Basil is known as merap prey in Cambodian and kaprow in Thai. This variety, which can reach several feet in height, has a unique smell, that is a combination of sweet Italian basil and geranium. Holy basil is a common ingredient in Cambodian cuisine—it is often added at the end of the cooking in stir-fry dishes or to stuffings. It can be found in most Asian grocery stores, and may be substituted with Thai basil. Thai Basil, known as chie nieng vong in Cambodian, horapa in Thai and húng qúê in Vietnamese has a dark green leaf. Its aroma is similar to Italian basil, with a slight aniseed tang. Thai basil is used frequently in Cambodia to flavor salads and soups. Like most basils, it should only be added to the dish at the very last moment, otherwise it will lose its fragrance. Thai basil is available in some well-stocked supermarkets or Asian markets. It will keep well in the refrigerator for a few days. Fresh coriander leaves (cilantro) can be substituted, but the flavor will not be the same. It is, however, a better alternative than sweet Italian basil.
Bitter Khmer Leaves This bitter leaf, also referred to simply as bitter leaf or Sdao, is often blanched before use to reduce its bitterness. Sorrel leaves are a good substitute, but are usually only available seasonally. However, fresh spinach can also be substituted.
Chili peppers come in many shapes, sizes and colors. Fresh green and red Asian finger-length chilies are moderately hot. Tiny red, green or orange bird’s-eye chilies (chili padi) are very hot. Dried chili peppers, known as mate phlao krim in Cambodia, refer to mild finger-length chili peppers, with their seeds removed, which have been salted and then dried. They must be soaked before crushing, to remove any surplus salt. Dried chilies can be found in most Asian grocery stores, and will keep indefinitely. If necessary, finger-length fresh chili peppers, with their seeds and inner membranes removed, can be substituted.
Coriander leaves are also known as cilantro or Chinese parsley. Available fresh, the roots, stems and leaves are all used in cooking. They are strongly flavored, so use sparingly. Available in most supermarkets—but if you cannot find, use regular parsley with a few fresh basil leaves added.
Daikon radish is a large, crisp, white-fleshed radish, with a sweet and clean flavor. It is a vegetable that is widely used in Japanese and Korean cooking, and can be eaten raw, or cooked. The skin needs to be peeled or scrubbed before using. Daikon is available from Asian markets and many well-stocked supermarkets.
Dried Cambodian fish, known as trey niet, is filleted fish that has been cured in salt and sugar and then dried. It has a delicate flavor. Dried fish must always be lightly fried before using. It is available in Asian groceries, but if necessary, it can be
