richly colored kernels, everything from blue to red and yellow. I displayed some of the ears for months in a basket in our kitchen.
“Unfortunately, I never had time to develop great gourmet recipes with all these crops. We did feast on lots of tacos with chopped fresh tomatoes and cilantro and had salsas made of tomatillos, chiles, and green onions. I discovered I liked cilantro and have also used the frozen leaves for soups and in esquite, a corn dish sold on street corners that I had learned to love in Mexico.”
Despite the problems, Kit’s enthusiasm for her Mexican garden was constant and infectious. When I visited in July, the garden was beautiful and I was reassured to see everything doing so well. Even though I’d heard garden experts talk about growing chile peppers, cilantro, and tomatillos in northern climates, I found it much more convincing to see and touch the thriving plants myself.
Except for the watermelon, all the plants shown here—including grinding corns, summer and winter squash, and many types of peppers—have all evolved from plants native to Mexico and Central America. Though native to Africa, watermelons are very popular in Mexico.
encyclopedia of mexican vegetables
This encyclopedia covers, in detail, growing and preparing Mexican vegetables and herbs. Each vegetable is listed under its most common English name (which is often derived from its Spanish name), followed by the Spanish name, any alternate common names, and the Latin name. For major information on soil preparation, mulching, composting, and pests and diseases, see Appendices A and B in the back of the book. For further information on saving seeds, see page 4.
A number of seed companies carry Mexican or equivalent varieties of vegetables and herbs, as you will notice in the Resources section (page 102). As a side note: According to Craig Dremann of the Redwood City Seed Company, to locate some of the old Mexican vegetable varieties we need to look overseas. Many vegetables that were taken from Mexico generations ago show up in other countries still close to their ancient form. Two such examples are ‘Ronde de Nice,’ the round zucchinis common in France; and Costoluco-type fluted tomatoes from Italy. Therefore, you will find a number of varieties listed here that don’t sound the slightest bit Mexican. For hard-to-find plants, I include source information under “Varieties.” In addition, if you are searching for any edible plant, hard-to-find or otherwise, I highly recommend the ultimate source book, Cornucopia II: A Source Book of Edible Plants, by Steve Facciola.
AMARANTH
Amaranthus hypochondriacus, A. tricolor, A. cruentus, A. gangeticus
AMARANTH, A VALUABLE STAPLE of the Aztecs, was discouraged by the Spanish because it was associated with their sacrificial ceremonies. Nevertheless, these easily grown and nutritious plants are still enjoyed by modern-day Mexicans. Some types are grown for their leaves; other are grown for their edible and nutritious seeds, or grain. Leaf amaranths grow to about 18 inches. Grain amaranths are dramatic plants in the garden. With their large red or yellow plumes, they can reach 7 or 8 feet in height.
How to grow: Amaranth, a tropical annual, glories in warm weather. Start seedlings after all danger of frost is past. Plant seeds ⅛ inch deep, 4 inches apart, in full sun and rich, well-drained soil. Plant the large grain amaranths in blocks with the rows 1 foot apart to prevent lodging (falling over); thin the plants to 1 foot apart. (If the plants start to lodge, place stakes and strings around the planting.) Plant the leaf types 6 inches apart and thin seedlings to 1 foot apart. Keep amaranths fairly moist. Generally, all amaranths grow with great enthusiasm. Cucumber beetles are occasionally a problem.
To harvest for greens, select the young, tender leaves and shoots. In the north, harvest the grains after the first frost; in mild-winter areas, wait until heads begin to drop their seed. Cut the tops and lay them on a tarp to dry for about a week; protect against rain and heavy dew. To thresh large amounts of grain, lay the dry heads on a sheet or tarp, cover them with another sheet, and dance on the top layer to knock the shiny seeds free. For small amounts, you can rub the seed heads on a screen or lightly beat them in a bag to remove the seed. Use an electric fan to separate the seeds from the lighter chaff as you pour them into a bowl. Wear gloves, as the flower heads can be rough and to prevent the red varieties from staining your hands.
Burgundy grain amaranth ‘Hopi Red Dye'
Seed saving: Amaranths are primarily wind pollinated and readily cross-pollinate. To prevent cross-pollination, put cloth bags over the flower heads. Tape or tie the bags closed around the stalk. As the plants bear both male and female flowers, they self-pollinate with the bags in place. When the dried heads are ripe, cut them off and thresh as above.
Varieties
The leaves and seeds of all varieties can be eaten, but the leaf types have the tastiest leaves and the grain types more seeds. Native Seeds/SEARCH carries several varieties from Mexico; Abundant Life Seed Foundation and Bountiful Gardens carry many amaranths.
Grain Amaranths
‘Alegria’: grown in Mexico for its blond seed, which is used for the traditional confection called alegria
‘Golden Giant’: 110 days; 6 feet tall; golden flower heads; grown for its white grain and edible young leaves; high yielding
‘Hopi Red Dye’ (‘Komo’): 120 days; to 6 feet tall; reddish purple leaves, black seeds
‘K432’ (‘Plainsman’): 95 days; high-yielding variety from Rodale Research; light pink seed heads; good quality grain; carried by Johnny’s Seeds and Southern Exposure Seed Exchange
‘Mayo’: 90 days; red-flowered, black-seeded variety from Sonora; grain used for pinole and atole and young leaves for quelites (greens); available from Bountiful Gardens
Leaf Amaranths
‘Merah’: 80 days; crinkled green and red leaves
How to prepare: Select young, tender leaves and shoots to use as you would spinach. Amaranth leaves are often served in a manner similar to other greens in Mexico (quelites)— namely, cook briefly in a large saucepan in the water used to wash them, or boil or steam them. Slice the cooked greens. Briefly sauté onions, chiles, and garlic in a little oil; add the amaranth and heat. Serve as a side dish or tuck in a tortilla with a little cheese. Add the mild-tasting leaves to soups and stews at the end of the cooking time.
The flavor of amaranth grain is quite mild and nutty, and it’s high in protein. Amaranth flour contains no gluten, so it must be combined with wheat flour to make raised breads. The seed can be popped like popcorn; stir ½ cup of seeds in a hot, dry frying pan until popped (about 30 seconds). Mix with honey to create alegria, a traditional confection from central Mexico. The seeds can be ground and added to moles and breads.
BEANS, SNAP, SHELLING, AND DRY
(FRIJOLES)
Phaseolus spp.
FAVA BEANS (HABAS, BROAD BEANS)
Vicia faba
RUNNER BEANS
P.
