Batik, Traditional Textiles of Indonesia. Rudolf Smend

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cloth is quite exceptional as it presents the birds in a multitude of positions—in various stages of flight and resting among curved plant stems. The brownish-red color is known as ungon and results from the overdyeing of indigo and mengkudu red.

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      30 Sarong, probably Cirebon, ca. 1860–1880.

      This is probably another batik associated with one of the Cirebon royal courts (kraton) (see pages 72–3). While it maintains the classic sarong composition, its badan has been decorated with motifs usually associated with the courts of Central Java, such as lar, the wing of the mythical bird Garuda. A dense and elaborate network of plant tendrils covers the background of the whole cloth. The execution of this sarong required great manual skill as the wax had to cover all areas except the outlines of the motifs.

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      31 Sarong, made in a Chinese workshop, probably Lasem, 1870–1880.

      The badan of sarongs made in the 1880s in Lasem were often decorated with repetitive geometric designs, usually in the form of stars, crosses, rosettes, lozenges or polygons. On this sarong, the tumpal and pinggir feature carnations while the two papan have been filled with dragons, a mythical serpent (Naga) and probably a centipede, the latter symbolizing protection. The background of the whole cloth has been decorated with thousands of tiny dots (cocohan) (see pages 74–5).

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      32 Sarong, made in a Chinese workshop, Pesisir area, 1900–1910.

      This sarong features a typical Pesisir motif, ganggeng or floating seaweed, yet included among the animals within it are mythical Chinese creatures, such as dragons with four claws and dragon-headed fish.

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      33 Sarong, Pesisir area, ca. 1880.

      The badan of this cloth has been decorated with a lung-lungan design of fantastic birds and exuberant flowers, a typical Javanese rendition of Indian chintz. Dark colors indicate that the cloth was made for an older person. The thousands of tiny dots (cocohan) present in the tumpal, papan and pinggir sections indicate that the cloth was made in one of the workshops of Lasem, Cirebon or Indramayu.

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      34 Sarong, made in a Chinese workshop, Pesisir area, ca. 1900.

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