Edible Asian Garden. Rosalind Creasy

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plants grow quickly to 5 feet in height. Support the tall plants with stakes and strings surrounding the outsides of the beds. Black aphids sometimes infest fava beans; control them with sprays of water. Slugs can destroy seedling beds. For young, tender fava beans whose skins do not need to be removed, harvest them when they first start to fill out the pods. Alternately, let the fava beans mature and use them fresh or dried.

      Yard-long beans are hot-weather annuals that produce poorly in cool-summer areas. Plant them in full sun at least 2 weeks after your last expected frost, sowing the seeds 1 inch deep and 4 inches apart. Thin the seedlings to 8 inches. Make successive plantings 3 weeks apart. Yard-long beans need trellising and produce best if kept fairly moist. Fertilize sparingly—too much nitrogen results in few beans. Pest and disease problems are minimal. Harvest when pods reach 12 to 18 inches, before the seeds fill out the pods.

      Pigeon peas are tender tropical shrubs that need a very long, warm growing season. They tolerate poor soils. Plant ½ inch deep and 5 feet apart. The plants may need support. In Florida, the plants produce for up to 5 years if there are no freezes. Harvest pods while young or let them mature and harvest the seeds for drying.

      Varieties

      Fava Beans

      ‘Nintoku Giant’: three large green seeds per pod; grows well in warmer climates

      ‘Windsor’: 80 days; bush; grows to 4 feet with green pods to 10 inches; large, light green beans

      Yard-Long Beans

      Redwood City Seed and Evergreen Y. H. Enterprises both carry yard-long beans.

      Red Seeded: 75 days; heirloom; light green pods; maroon brown seeds; trouble-free variety

      Black Seeded: the most widely grown yard-long; dark green pods

      Black Stripe Seed: new variety from Taiwan; high yields; pods are crisp

      ‘Kaohsiung’: dark green, thick, meaty pods and black seeds

      ‘Sabah Snake’: 80 days; very long pods; pods are light green and wrinkled; white seeds; heirloom; popular in Malaysia

      Pigeon Peas

      ECHO and The Banana Tree carry pigeon pea seeds.

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      Yard-long beans (above), pigeon peas (below)

      How to prepare: Young fava beans have a special sweetness. These tasty beans are shelled when the seeds start to fill out the pods. Then the bean skins must be peeled before preparation—double peeling—a real labor of love. In northern China, the beans are paired with ham or sprouted and cooked. In parts of China and Japan, mature fresh fava beans are parboiled, then stir-fried in a little oil and garlic. Diners eat them as a snack, peeling the skins off themselves.

      Caution: Some males of Mediterranean descent are allergic to favas and should be wary when trying them for the first time; persons taking antidepressants with monoamine inhibitors should avoid them at all costs.

      Yard-long beans are actually tastiest when 12-18 inches long. In a popular Szechwan dish called dry-fried beans, the red-seeded yard-long beans are deep-fried, drained, and then put in a wok and stir-fried with spicy seasonings. The dark green variety is best in a simple stir-fry with a bit of ginger. Try them in rolls of marinated beef or pork (see recipe, page 81) or add them to soups. These beans are pencil-thin and a bit like French haricots verts; they can be used in place of string beans in most recipes.

      The young pods of pigeon peas are eaten cooked, or the fresh or dried seed is cooked and eaten, often with rice. In the Philippines, pigeon peas are often used in soups (see recipe, page 74.)

      BITTER MELON

      (BITTER GOURD; BITTER CUCUMBER; BALSAM PEAR)

      Momordica charantia

      Cantonese: fu kwa; Mandarin:ku gwa; Japanese: niga uri; Hindi: Karela

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      Bitter melon

      Bitter melons are warty vegetables that somewhat resemble their cousins the cucumber and have a distinctive, quininelike taste. They are popular in Asia where bitter tastes are appreciated. In the Philippines, the juice from a bitter melon is sometimes rubbed on babies’ lips to accustom children to bitter tastes. The immature leaves and shoots are edible, too.

      Bitter melon plants are handsome vines that bear yellow flowers and may climb more than 12 feet. The unique fruits may be light or dark green, or white when young; they mature to red orange.

      How to grow: Bitter melons are grown as annuals. They need long, warm growing conditions. Soak the seeds for 24 hours before planting to help germination. Start bitter melons inside at a minimum soil temperature of 64°F. Once in the garden, they need full sun and a fertile, organic soil.

      Space or thin plants to 2 feet apart. Put a trellis in place for them to grow on when you plant them. Bitter melons require ample water.

      If the vines are pale at midseason, apply fish emulsion. If the plants are not setting fruit, you need to hand pollinate the flowers. Slugs and snails can be a problem for young plants.

      Harvest bitter melons while they are young and still firm, in the white or green stage. They grow more bitter as they mature. Harvest regularly and do not let them ripen on the vine; they will continue to ripen after harvesting. Harvest leaves and shoots for cooking while they are young.

      Varieties

      In some sources, bitter melons are listed only by the common or species names rather than by variety names.

      ‘High Moon’: 90 days; pale green to white; to 10 inches long. Available from Territorial Seed Company

      ‘Hong Kong’: dark green, rather smooth skin; spindle shaped; more bitter and flavorful than most; Cantonese use this for stuffing

      ‘Karela’: 55 days; dark green, to 7½ inches long; very productive; from India; carried by Willhite Seed Company

      ‘Taiwan Large’: large, high-quality fruits, green skin and white flesh; disease resistant; popular in Taiwan

      ‘Thailand’: small fruits with blistered deep green skin; productive; popular in tropics

      How to prepare: In much of Asia, bitter melon is considered to have coming or medicinal properties, and the young tendrils are considered a delica and are prepared by quick frying. Alternately, they are incorporated at the last minute into simple egg dishes The tendrils have some bitterness bu possess a distinctive, quite pleasant vegetable taste. The taste of the fruit varies in flavor and bitterness depend ing on maturity. Most fruits begin de green and mild and grow increasing yellow and bitter with age. Try young melons in soups and mature ones in stir-fries (see the recipe on page 70) or stuffed with meat. In China, bitter melon is usually cooked in a soup wi pork and black beans or added to stir fries. In India, bitter melon is often cooked with potatoes and numerous spices or pickled with garlic; it is also fried, stuffed, and used in curries. Before cooking with bitter melon, to remove much of the water and some the bitterness, slice, salt,

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