in front of Kinkaku-ji are undoubtedly the most striking features (and the main reason Kinkaku-ji is one of Kyoto’s most-visited sights), the structure itself is also a fascinating blend of styles. The third story is in the traditional Chinese cha’an style, the second in the buke-zukuri (a style common with warrior aristocrat residences) and the first floor the 11th-century shinden-zukuri style. With all those components combining with such effect, it’s not hard to see why, despite its age, Kinkaku-ji was one of the 17 sites in Kyoto that received joint World Heritage status in 1994.
Opening Times Daily from 9 a.m.–5 p.m. Getting There You can take bus #101 or #205 to the Kinkaku-ji Michi bus stop or #59 and #12 to the Kinkaku-ji Mae bus stop. It’s a short, well-marked route to the temple from either bus stop.Contact www.shokoku-ji.jp Admission Fee ¥400. While in the area Combine a trip to Kinkaku-ji with a day out in northwestern Kyoto (page 22) that also takes in the Zen rock garden at Ryoan-ji, the gardens of Daitoku-ji, and the Nishijin Textile Center.
2 Ryoan-ji’s Zen Rock Garden
Japan’s most enigmatic sight
Before the tour buses begin their daily procession to Ryoan-ji, the fleeting calm before the storm at the temple offers early birds a moment of Zen contemplation in the peace and quiet the designer of Ryoan-ji’s garden likely intended. And there’s plenty to contemplate from the wooden steps beside the garden at this UNESCO World Heritage site. Despite years of study and argument, nobody knows for sure when the garden was made or who made it, nor can anybody agree on what the designer was trying to express.
The karesansui (dry landscape) garden only measures 30 by 10 meters (100 x 30 feet), but the cryptic manner in which its 15 rocks are arranged on a bed of off-white sand within that rectangle have been argued to represent all sorts of things—from small islands on an ocean to a tiger carrying a cub across a river and even a map of Chinese Zen monasteries. As for the who and when of the garden’s creation, the garden was most likely created just after the bloody Onin War of 1467–77, after which much of Kyoto had to be rebuilt, and judging by the style and historical records the man behind it is most likely an artist and landscape gardener called Soami, even though the names of other landscapers are carved into some of the garden’s rocks.
Whoever it may have been, they have left a challenge for visitors. See if you can find a point from where you can see all 15 rocks at the same time. The designer has managed to lay out the rocks in such a way that you won’t be able to see more than 14 at once, unless, it is said, you have reached the point of spiritual enlightenment. Most likely the only way to see all 15 is to check out the small replica of the garden on display just inside the main temple building; it won’t bring enlightenment but it’ll give you a better understanding of the sweeping patterns in the sand and the way the rocks have been grouped.
Opening Times Mar.–Nov. 8 a.m.–5 p.m., Dec.– Feb. 8.30 a.m.–4.30 p.m. Getting There Take buses #50 or #55 to the Ritsumeikan Daigaku-mae bus stop or bus #59 to Ryoanji-mae. Ryoan-ji is also a seven-minute walk from Ryoanji-michi Station on the Keifuku Kitano Line. Contact www.ryoanji.jp Admission Fee ¥500. While in the area After Ryoan-ji head to another of Kyoto’s main attractions, the gilded Kinkaku-ji (pages 9 and 22), which is just over a kilometer to the northeast and easily reached by bus from Ryoan-ji.
3 Kiyomizu Temple
Tradition and nature—a view of Kyoto from on high
From haiku poetry to the (Chinese originated) concept of “borrowed scenery” in garden and architectural design, traditional Japanese culture is deeply rooted in an appreciation and reflection of nature and especially the seasons. Kiyomizu Temple in eastern Kyoto is a particularly fine example of that.
The temple’s main hall (Hondo) has a backdrop that marks the seasons. In spring (the natural, academic and fiscal beginning to the year in Japan) the Hondo is accented by the delicate pinks of cherry blossom. Come summer, it’s immersed in a sea of lush green that gives way to rich reds and yellows in autumn, before the foliage thins and is occasionally dappled with snow in winter.
Kiyomizu Temple is comprised of many elements (including a three-storied pagoda that is especially magical when occasionally illuminated at night), but it’s the Hondo that steals the show. Dating to the 1600s, like many of Kiyomizu’s current buildings (although the temple was established much earlier in 778), the hall is built on a rock face that overlooks a small valley and features a protruding wooden veranda held up by 12-meter (40-foot) high keyaki (Japanese Zelkova) pillars.
Not only are the hall and its veranda one of Kyoto’s most memorable images, a Japanese idiom equivalent to “take the plunge” was born from it. It used to be said that anyone who leapt from the overhanging veranda and survived would have their dreams answered, while anyone who died trying would be rewarded by sainthood. It might sound like everyone is a winner with that deal, but don’t be tempted to leap yourself. Taking the plunge from Kiyomizu Temple was illegalized back in 1872 in response to a spate of leaping mishaps.
Opening Times The main hall is open daily from 6 a.m.–6 p.m. Getting There From Kyoto Station head to the Gojo-zaka bus stop, served by City Bus #100 and #206. Kiyomizu Temple is a ten-minute walk uphill from there (just follow the crowds). From the Kawaramachi and Shijo areas, you can catch City Bus #207 to the Kiyomizu-michi bus stop. Contact www.kiyomizudera.or.jp. Admission Fee ¥300. While in the area After the temple, check out the stores and cafes on the sloping Ninenzaka, Sannen-zaka, and Kiyomizuzaka streets nearby (page 26). You’ll find lots of old craft shops and places to try traditional sweets.
4 Nijo Castle
An Edo-era symbol of the Shogun’s power and prestige
Constructed in 1603 by the first Edo-era shogun, Tokugawa Ieyasu, Nijo Castle (Nijo-jo in Japanese) was born as a powerful statement of intent, serving as a potent reminder to all in Kyoto of Tokugawa strength. Although Ieyasu ruled from afar in Tokyo (then called Edo), the mighty Nijo-jo left no one in doubt that Big Brother was watching and ready to pounce.
Located in the heart of Kyoto, just northwest of Nishiki and Shijo (see page 33 for a full day out in the area), Nijo-jo’s grounds are spread out over 275,000 m² (329,000 yd²) in which modern-day visitors will find a pair of palaces (the Hinomaru and the Ninomaru), remains of fortifications and landscaped gardens that together saw Nijo-jo granted World Heritage designation. In particular, it’s the Ninomaru palace that stands out. Its gardens, designed by famed Edo-era landscape designer Kobori Enshu, combine pines (to symbolize longevity) and rocks (representing loyalty) to appease Tokugawa’s ego, while inside the palace itself are some of the most ornate screen paintings and carvings in the country—the outer chambers, which would have been used for lower-ranked visitors, decorated with fear-inducing paintings that evoke strength and power, yet the inner chambers for trusted and higher-ranked guests being home to more calming, beautiful imagery.
Through the 265 years of Tokugawa rule, Nijo-jo’s defenses were never put to the test, but should anyone have been brave enough to
