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Asaba as night falls. The pond adds to both the beauty and the tranquility of the ryokan, and by day it isn’t uncommon to be able to watch kingfishers flitting around it.
KAI ATAMI ATAMI ONSEN, ATAMI
With a pair of aromatic outdoor baths overlooking the ocean and a hillside building that oozes old charm, KAI Atami shines in an area with a rich tradition of ryokan hospitality.
The resort town of Atami, looking out over Sagami Bay on the picturesque Izu-Hanto Peninsula, has long been a holiday destination synonymous with hot-spring bathing and traditional accommodation. For generations, Tokyoites in particular have been making the sixty-two–mile (hundred-kilometer) jaunt west, leaving the rigors of the city behind to relax in the mineral-rich hot-spring waters that feed Atami’s numerous ryokan and unwind in timeless retreats like the KAI Atami ryokan.
Now part of Hoshino Resorts’ KAI range, in many respects the 160-year-old KAI Atami is the quintessential ryokan. After leaving your shoes at the entranceway and then slipping into your cotton yukata gown, you become part of a hushed world where the pace of life slows to allow contemplation and calm; and where the senses can hone in on the finest of details—the mellow aroma of green tea, the sweet scent of tatami, the sound of waves in the distance.
Cobblestones and bamboo lead to the entrance, the gentle lights at the end of the path draw you in.
The building, though home to just sixteen guest rooms, is an intriguing maze of hallways and stairways spread out on a hillside overlooking the bay, close enough to the ocean to hear waves lapping as you fall asleep at night, yet high enough up the hill to take in broad ocean views from the guest rooms and from the large open-air communal cedar baths. Likewise, the open-air lounge halfway up the hillside, where guests can unwind with complimentary drinks, provides not just stellar views, but also offers contemporary relief from the aged woods of the main building and the tatami-mat guest rooms, blending modern touches with traditional ryokan surrounds—a common design theme found in the thirteen KAI properties across Japan.
Whether KAI or Hoshinoya, dinner at any Hoshino Resort property is a special experience. The kaiseki here draws a lot on the area’s highly regarded seafood and is put together with traditional aplomb.
Another of the key concepts of the KAI brand is the incorporation of local traditions and flavors, and in Atami’s case that most notably means tapping into local seafood. The multi-course kaiseki dinner, served in-room, eaten cross-legged at a low table on tatami, varies by season but is always heavy on freshly caught fish and shellfish, with signature dishes like whole red snapper and clams steamed in eight spices that the chefs prepare alongside more traditional kaiseki flavors. It also means giving guests the opportunity to experience Atami’s renowned geisha traditions at a nightly after-dinner show where geisha perform traditional dances and songs, before playing imperial court games with guests, such as the surprisingly addictive fan-throwing. It might sound touristy, but bear in mind that geisha go through years of training to perfect their arts, their movements, and each and every manner; and despite geisha playing a prominent role in guidebook and travel brochure imagery, to actually spend time being entertained by one is an experience usually out of reach of travelers to Japan (and most Japanese). Like staying in a historic ryokan, it’s an opportunity to absorb and interact with tradition, not just observe it from afar.
It isn’t just Kyoto that has a long geisha heritage. Tokyo, of course, does too. And so does Atami. Celebrating that, a local geisha performs nightly after dinner at KAI Atami, giving guests the opportunity to enjoy traditional music and dance, but also take part in fun games like fan-tossing.
Chrysanthemums, or kiku, to use the Japanese word, are a noble flower in Japan. Not only is one used on the Imperial Family’s seal, the flower is also said to represent longevity and rejuvenation. In that respect, it’s a fitting choice to have them floating on the KAI Atami’s natural hot-spring baths, which themselves (according to Japanese tradition) can alleviate numerous ailments and rejuvenate both physically and mentally.
As with all the best ryokan, it would be tempting not to leave the KAI Atami during a stay, but Atami does have some attractions that are worth exploring. The two market streets leading away from Atami Station are something of a must-see for foodies, home to stalls specializing in all sorts of dried fish (all specialties of Shizuoka Prefecture) as well as Japanese sweets, and local fruits and vegetables. Then there is the MOA Museum with its 3,500 or so paintings, its Noh theater, and its gilded tearoom, all set atop the hill that overlooks Atami Station and provides sweeping views over Sagami Bay—a sight almost as impressive as watching the sunset while soaking in one of the KAI’s outdoor baths.
kAi Atami 界 熱海
Address: 759 izusan, Atami, Shizuoka, japan 413-0002
Telephone: 0570-073-011
Website: www.hoshinoresorts.com/en/resortsandhotels/kai/atami-ryokan
Email: [email protected]
number of rooms: 16
Room rate: ¥¥¥
A staff member serving the signature red snapper dish. Staff at the KAI Atami and other Hoshino Resorts properties don’t wear traditional clothing like kimono, but rather a uniform that feels like a blend of contemporary and tradition, much like the Hoshino ryokan themselves.
The guest rooms represent simple, minimalist Japanese tradition at its very best.
The outdoor lounge area, located halfway between the two outdoor baths, has great views and a fridge stocked with complimentary beer and other drinks—ideal post bath.
No, it’s not the same bath again. Both the large wooden communal tubs at the KAI look similar and are decorated with flowers. The difference is that they are gender-separated baths—men and women here bathe apart (as is typical at any ryokan) but both get great views and a similarly luxurious bathing experience.
You often hear of ryokan being in tune with nature, but this takes that a step beyond. This tree has been in-situ for hundreds of years and the ryokan has grown around it. It actually grows through a hallway in the lower part of the complex.
Seasonal is key with kaiseki. In autumn, the KAI Atami
