made of lemon cream here, an orange madeleine cookie there, and freshly baked scones everywhere. The savoury course includes smoked salmon on bread, chicken curry in puff pastry and cheese crackers. And then, even more cake. You’ll never manage it all! But never fear, you’ll also be given a small box for taking away. Expensive? Yes, but it’s an extraordinary dining experience in a unique setting.
Tip: You can order as much tea or coffee as you like along with your afternoon tea. If you don’t like the flavour you’ve chosen, just ask for another one.
1 Princes Street (next to Waverley Station), Edinburgh EH2 2EQ.
Afternoon tea costs £29 and is served between 12 and 5.30pm.
national museum of scotland – following historical traces
text and photo sascha ihns
The National Museum of Scotland opened its doors in 1866 as the Edinburgh Museum of Science and Art. Today it is Britain’s largest museum outside of London, with more than 20,000 items on exhibit and drawing up to two million visitors a year on average. In 2011 the original Victorian-style Royal Museum was refurbished and integrated into the postmodern National Museum building (inaugurated in 1998) with its distinctive castle turret at the front.
Visitors begin in the vast entrance hall of the former Royal Museum, bathed in natural light and with a dazzling (even confusing) array of options for starting their tour. There are a number of galleries to choose from, like Grand Gallery, Window on the World, Art and Design or Discoveries. One of the most impressive exhibitions (and a favourite among younger visitors) is the Natural History Gallery, where visitors can gaze at several real dinosaur skeletons alongside modern animals (mounted) as well as fossils and geological findings explaining the development of our planet up to the present. Other exhibitions like World Cultures offer items and explanations about different indigenous people and present archaeological findings like weapons and coins from ancient Egypt and the Islamic world. In the Science and Technology gallery, visitors can get to know numerous Scottish inventions and also come face-to-face with a very famous Scot – Dolly the Sheep, who found her final resting place here, stuffed and mounted.
Afterwards, take a break at the museum’s café on Level 3 of the entrance hall before strolling on to the new part of the National Museum and it’s further 10,000 items. Here the visitor can trace the path of Scottish history, beginning at the lowest level with prehistory and then progressing to the early medieval period with its ecclesiastical history and religious wars, towards the industrial revolution and its impact on modern Scottish life. Highlights like the “Maiden”, an early Scottish version of a Guillotine, are explained interactively via touchscreens, while other exhibits like the complete steam locomotive and weaving loom are impressive enough without further explanation.
Tip: The upmarket Tower Restaurant is a lovely spot with a fantastic view above the roofs of Edinburgh. Just off the restaurant is a rooftop panorama terrace open to anyone, even if you’re just stopping by for the view.
Chambers Street, Edinburgh EH1 1JF.
Mon - Sun 10am - 5pm. Admission free.
scottish national gallery of modern art – a colourful place
text and photo melanie dworaczek
Surrounded by scenic parkland on the outskirts of the city, just a 20-minute walk from the city centre, the delights of the Gallery of Modern Art await. Escape the beehive of activity that is the city to unwind with the perfect companion – art.
Two exhibitions, 30 displays and whole worlds of artists across different eras, with something for everyone, from the casual tourist to the art connoisseur. Opposite Modern Art Two is the gallery where you’ll find iconic works by Monet, Van Gogh, Raphael and Titian, Canova’s spectacular sculpture The Three Graces, and of course a wealth of Scottish art. In addition to the permanent exhibition, the gallery hosts frequent world-class temporary exhibits – Matisse and Picasso have both been recent highlights. Of course, we cannot neglect to mention the important permanent collection of international works from the postwar period, or the world’s most important and comprehensive collection of modern Scottish art. The postwar collection includes works by Francis Bacon, David Hockney, Andy Warhol and Lucian Freud; modern artists represented include Antony Gormley, Gilbert & George, Damien Hirst and Tracey Emin. But don’t just come for the art; the gallery’s café is sure to please the whole family: bright atmosphere, culinary delights, stylish presentation. Fresh salads, healthy menus, tea, coffee, fresh baked cookies and cakes - a delicious selection any way you slice it, in an ambiance that begs you to lean back and enjoy the moment.
Fifteen minutes’ walk from Princes Street, or an easy jaunt on coach line 13. Admission is free, although selected temporary exhibitions may be subject to charge. The Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art is also one of the major venues for the Edinburgh Festival in August.
Tip: Vegetarian options (at least ∫ main courses), children’s portions, children’s highchairs, wheelchair access, outdoor tables, free Wi-Fi.
75 Belford Road, Edinburgh EH43DR.
Open daily, 10am - 5pm (6pm in August only).
Closed 25th and 26th Dec and open on 1st Jan from 12pm.
Admission is free. Special exhibitions may be subject to charge.
scottish national portrait gallery – meet sir walter scott and colin montgomerie
text and photo susanne schramm
This impressive neo-gothic, red sandstone building on Queen Street built from 1885-1890 is highly recommended for anyone interested in architecture.
The building itself is imposing enough from afar, but a closer look reveals the exquisite details – ornate friezes, detailed murals, and sophisticated, sculptural embellishments. Even if you’re not looking to see the portraits, you’ll want to make a stop here.
Inside you’ll find a comprehensive collection of portraits of historical figures from the 16th century to the present – figures who shaped Scotland, by the leading names of Scottish art. Like Sir Walter Scott by Alexander Naemyth, Robert Burns by Henry Raeburn or more contemporary pioneers in arts, sports and science, such as Colin Montgomerie by Iain Faulkner.
The Scottish National Photography Collection on the 1st Floor presents temporary exhibitions, as well as popular works by Robert Adamson and David Octavius Hill. With its annual BP Portrait Award event, the Gallery also brings together an inspiring exhibition that encourages artists from around the world to develop the theme of portraiture in their work.
Between the seventeen galleries with both temporary and permanent exhibitions,
