sunscreen product should provide enough moisture, so there’s no need to layer moisturizer underneath. Instead, consider applying an antioxidant-rich serum before your sunscreen or a booster (sometimes labeled “essence”) to increase skin’s environmental defenses. Research has demonstrated that sunscreens work better and provide even more benefit when paired with an abundant amount and variety of antioxidants. [13,14]
We’re occasionally asked if it’s necessary to use a “regular sunscreen” on top of a daytime moisturizer with SPF. A sunscreen is a sunscreen; whether labeled a “daytime moisturizer” or a “sunscreen,” it will provide you with the same UV protection benefits as long as it is rated SPF 30 or greater and contains active ingredients that, singly or together, provide broad-spectrum protection.
The primary difference between a daytime moisturizer with an SPF rating and a larger-sized product labeled a sunscreen is that the daytime moisturizer with sunscreen typically also contains larger amounts of other beneficial ingredients (that is, antioxidants and cell-communicating ingredients) than a “regular” sunscreen formula. Thus, a facial moisturizer with SPF should pack a greater anti-aging punch than that giant bottle of sunscreen you keep in your beach bag, even though their SPF ratings are identical. But, if all you’re after is protection from UV light, then a regular sunscreen can also be applied to the face, and, of course, doing so saves money, too.
What about the recommendation to wait after application before venturing outside? Synthetic sunscreen actives (common examples include avobenzone, octinoxate, and oxybenzone) should really be applied 20 minutes before exposing your skin to daylight because they need time to “get situated” in the uppermost layers of skin before they can provide optimal protection. [9,52]
On the other hand, the mineral sunscreen actives—titanium dioxide and zinc oxide—provide immediate sun protection, so it’s not necessary to wait if your sunscreen contains them. [9,52] That’s why we recommend using a mineral sunscreen for your hands when you’re outdoors, and always reapplying after washing or sanitizing them.
We’re occasionally asked whether it’s OK to use makeup that contains mineral sunscreen actives on top of a sunscreen that contains synthetic sunscreen actives. This is fine—the manner in which today’s sunscreen actives are encapsulated, coated, and stabilized makes this a worry-free way to apply your makeup and sunscreen formulas. In fact, many sun-care experts recommend layering like this to get maximum protection!
What about applying foundation (one that doesn’t contain sunscreen) over the sunscreen you’ve just applied? As mentioned above, this will dilute the sunscreen and reduce its effectiveness somewhat, but there are steps you can take to minimize this effect:
Wait 3–5 minutes for the sunscreen to set before applying the foundation.
Make sure you apply in smooth, downward motions; do not use a rubbing or back-and-forth motion or apply the foundation with a damp sponge.
Do not use excess pressure, regardless of the application tool you prefer.
Use a dry (not damp) foundation sponge or brush rather than your fingers.
If you’re not the sort to wait, opt for a foundation or tinted moisturizer rated SPF 15 or greater (and in this case greater is better), of which there are plenty in all price ranges. Secondary to that, you may also set your foundation with a pressed powder rated SPF 15 or greater.
You may have read that you can’t rely on your foundation or tinted moisturizer with sunscreen rated SPF 30 or greater as your sole source of sun protection. We disagree with that strongly! There’s no research showing that a foundation or tinted moisturizer (or BB or CC cream either) with sunscreen is a problem as long as you stick to the same rules for all sunscreen application. In this case, the primary consideration should be how much coverage you want from these products. If you don’t apply foundation, tinted moisturizer, or BB or CC cream with SPF 30 or greater liberally, you won’t get the amount of sun protection stated on the label. So, if you’re someone who likes a very sheer light application, then you shouldn’t rely on these alone for sun protection. But, if you like a more generous application then you’ll be covered quite well. Don’t forget, you’ll still need a sunscreen for your neck, as applying makeup there can result in higher dry-cleaning bills!
While foundations, tinted moisturizers, and BB and CC creams can be applied generously to achieve great sun protection, we feel that is unlikely in the case of loose or pressed powders that contain sunscreen. The kind of liberal application you would need to get the best protection would create a caked-on look that most people would find unacceptable (and we think would look fairly strange). Loose and pressed powders with sunscreen are best for the layering approach of wearing sunscreen, as we mentioned above.
Can you mix a tinted moisturizer or foundation that doesn’t contain sunscreen with the mineral sunscreen you use to counteract the white cast it can cause? We don’t recommend it. Diluting a sunscreen is never a good idea for this critical step of skincare. Just apply your mineral-based sunscreen first, let it absorb, and then you apply your foundation in a light layer to eliminate the white cast. Or, you can add just a drop or two (literally) of a liquid bronzer or specialty makeup product like Cover FX Custom Cover Drops to your mineral sunscreen to offset the white cast. In this case, the tiny amount of product added is unlikely to have a negative effect on the mineral sunscreen’s ability to protect your skin.
What does the PA++ designation mean? As if the whole SPF situation weren’t confusing enough, along comes the PA rating system! The letters PA followed by plus signs (PA++, PA+++) on a sunscreen product label are a rating system developed in Japan. Although interesting, this system has its drawbacks. The PA system concerns only UVA protection; PA++ indicates moderate UVA protection and PA+++ indicates high UVA protection. Some regulatory experts argue that this type of rating isn’t reliable because it looks only at UVA radiation, and UV rays from natural sunlight are a mix of UVA and UVB, each of which damages skin in different ways. [51]
The testing for the PA ratings differs from the UV critical wavelength testing, which is what’s used to determine the UVA protection of sunscreens made in the United States and in European Union (EU) nations. The U.S. and EU method is considered more reliable because the subjects are exposed to the UV light (both UVA and UVB) they will encounter in real-world settings; that is, the sunscreen’s UV protection ability is measured against this type of real-world exposure. [51]
The other issue is that the PA ratings of a product are established based on what’s known as “persistent pigment darkening” (PPD). As mentioned previously, UVA rays are the ones that cause tanning; so, if exposed to UVA, your skin will become browner or darker, but that’s not true for everyone. In the actual testing to determine the PA rating, even on people who have the same skin tone before UVA exposure, the color their skin turns after UVA exposure is routinely inconsistent; some skin gets darker, some not as dark. These variations make this type of testing inconsistent and unreliable in the long run. [51]
Whether the sunscreen you’re considering uses the PA rating system or not (and it’s definitely not essential nor a mark of a superior product), a well-formulated sunscreen will provide broad-spectrum protection and, as with any sunscreen, must be applied liberally and reapplied as needed to maintain protection.
Does sunscreen cause cancer? No, and there’s no research proving otherwise. We’re shocked how some people overlook the huge amount of research showing that regular use of sunscreen actually prevents cancer, prevents premature aging of skin, reduces brown spots, improves wrinkles, and helps skin heal. We discuss this issue in detail in Chapter 14, Common Beauty Questions Answered and Myths Debunked!
Bottom line: While understanding sunscreen isn’t necessarily easy, if you remember to liberally apply a broad-spectrum SPF 30 sunscreen
