narrow arms of the sea] of Binniness and Whiteness … The inhabitants are industrious and chiefly employed in farming and in fishing and in those seasons that out of doors occupations cannot be carried on the men are engaged in repairing their boats, nets and fishing tackle – and the women in knitting hose, gloves, shawls etc.
J. O. Ross, the enumerator for North Whiteness, when describing the district as ‘Nearly divided into two distinct parts by a wild barren hill which has to be crossed east and west ere the Census could be taken making it a more difficult task to perform’, appears to be trying to justify his claim for expenses, or appealing for sympathy for the privations he had been forced to suffer in performance of his duties. He goes on to observe that
In the South part of the district agriculture is poorly attended to, in the North end of the district pasturage of sheep and cattle is more attended to than the proper tillage of the soil. The people tho’ poor and subjected to inclement weather and other casualties [attempt] by fishing and farming to provide in a measure for their families. For the past two or three seasons the potato failure so prevalent in these islands has reduced the people in circumstances and it will be some time ere they recov’d their position.21
It is fortunate that there were almost always fish in the sea. Every croft had its boat, and a few hours on the water would usually bring a catch, perhaps some herring, haddock, ling or cod.22
The neighbouring district of Weisdale was in 1851 described as ‘Wholly without formed roads, the surface hilly, abounding with marsh and moor, and the houses very widely scattered.’23 In these conditions in the 1850s and for many years thereafter, most journeys were made on foot or by boat. In Shetland one is never far from water and, particularly when less active people required transportation, the journey was usually by boat. David Hobart, schoolmaster in Whiteness for a number of years in the 1860s and 70s, provides a lively description of a trip mainly by boat from Busta to Whiteness in May 1868. Both boats mentioned would have been double-ended Shetland fourareens, about 23 feet in overall length, rowed by two or four oarsmen, each with one oar. At the helm was my maternal great-grandfather, Magnus Irvine of Strom Bridge,24 Whiteness, aged 45. The passenger was Margaret Irvine, his wife, aged 41. At the oars were David Hobart, aged 26, and Robbie Tulloch, aged 43, a live-in farm worker with the Irvine family. David Hobart lodged with the Irvine family and was in love with their elder daughter, Mary Jane, for whom this account was written.
After leaving you at Busta we kept close along the shore [see Fig.1.2] making fair progress, till we came to the opening of St Magnus Bay where, the wind having increased and the sea having more space to gather way, we could with some strokes urge forward the boat scarcely half her length, and with others barely hold our own. [The wind was probably south-west.] Mrs Irvine was for returning. Mr Irvine was for going. This opinion prevailed. There was no danger he said, except that of a long hard pull, and when the boat had made marked progress across, he further remarked that patience and perseverance – I didn’t hear the conclusion of that proverb. Then came a slight lull of which we took due advantage by rowing like galley slaves. This brought us under the lee of the island [Papa Little] and our next difficulty was to get round the point [Selie Ness] on which we nearly went aground last night. We had to go out into the middle of the voe under the full force of both wind and waves and as the wind was still increasing our strength as well as our patience and perseverance was tried to the utmost. The point was slowly passed. To rest was to go backwards. Another point was ahead under the shelter of which we could rest and take in more ballast. Every nerve was strained to reach it which we at last did. A drink of buttermilk, a smoke, a few stones put in [as ballast, to prevent the boat being caught too much by the wind] and we were off, & Busta which had hitherto been in sight and from which we thought you were watching us, was lost to view. The wind and sea were now worse than ever. Robbie sometimes let the head of the boat fall down & the spray would dash over us. [From this I deduce that Robbie and David were each rowing with one oar, with Robbie on the port side.] Once the whole top of the sea came in over the quarter right upon Mrs Irvine which nearly upset her equanimity. A short time after we again got under the lee of the shore and went about as fast as we did at first. Aith was reached about four hours after leaving Busta [a distance of about 7 statute miles]. My hands were the only thing that suffered damage.
Figure 1.2 Journey by boat and foot from Busta to Strom Bridge
A rest at Aith. No thought of another sea voyage. The [second] boat was to be left at Bixter, said Mrs Irvine and likewise Mr Irvine. Not being in command I didn’t give any opinion. Little said going over the hill. A little said going down the hill & that little was to take the boat to Tresta – nothing more. [Aith to Bixter had been a walk of 2.5 statute miles.] In to see Mrs Johnson – a biscuit and a dram. The wind had shifted two points to the west – get the boat down – the boat was got down – and rowed under the lee of the opposite side – the rudder shipped and down the voe as if running a race. Tresta was never looked at. Now we again met the wind and rowed easily along the lee of the shore till we came opposite the point of Russa Ness – Then along the side of the wind, the boat rolling over the large waves – the skipper was steering, Robbie and I rowing. The point was passed and then right before the wind to old Johnny Abernethy where we landed & drew up the boat. Home at last.
It appears that the boat was headed straight across Weisdale Voe to Haggersta in Whiteness, from where it was a walk of only 0.7 statute miles to home at Strom Bridge. This second boat trip would have been of about 6.5 statute miles.
Writing a few days later,25 David Hobart remarks that ‘The boat has not yet been brought round’, which I take as confirmation that the boat had been left at Haggersta or thereabouts and was to be brought down Weisdale Voe and up Stromness Voe, a trip of 7 miles, after which it would be half a mile closer to Strom Bridge.
A further example of a boat trip in the same period is recorded by another schoolmaster, Robert Jamieson, who by coincidence also taught at Whiteness. In November 1860, when he had left Whiteness and moved to Sandness, he visited his beloved in Gulberwick. He was lame and was loaned a horse for the journey home but was forced to leave it at Cova. He records26 that he went to Clousta and took a boat from there to Sandness, a distance of 12 miles.
I had to bribe the lazy fellow of a boatman with extra fare before I could make him move. He thought it so cold and a part of the voe was frozen.
When love drove him, David Hobart was prepared to walk as well as to row. One weekend when Mary Jane Irvine was at Busta, he proposed leaving Strom Bridge at 0400 hrs, reaching Busta at 0900 hrs, leaving Busta at 1700 hrs and arriving back at Strom Bridge at 2200 hrs.27 The distance, over rough open countryside with few tracks, is about 16.5 statute miles each way. In the event he made the return journey to Strom Bridge on Monday morning, leaving Busta at 0310 hrs and reaching Strom Bridge at 0810 hrs, ready for a day in school. When enjoying the simmer dim (twilight) of late June in Shetland this was a practical proposition.
This is his account:28
On leaving you I set out not very fast but gradually my pace quickened till I went at full swing. One hour and three quarters I was passing Voe where I found innumerable fences and dykes the gates of which I never took the trouble of looking for but climbed or vaulted over them as they came in my way. Hunger also made itself felt there & I sat down and ate a piece of bread
