– sizes 3, 4, 5, each on a single wire gate karabiner
240cm sling x1 on a screwgate karabiner
120cm slings x3, each on each on a wiregate or screwgate karabiner
60cm sling x1 with two wiregates
Wiregate karabiners x2
Screwgate karabiner x1
Each person will need a screwgate and belay device and possibly prussik loops and a sling and screwgate. Consider taking a nut key to remove stubborn gear and some cord/tape to use for abseils; most abseils will have slings in place but you may opt to replace them and you also have the option of using the cord/tape should you get off route and need to retreat.
Gear that can double up is a bonus. Thus the Rockcentrics can be used for protection but also as short extenders and threads. Long slings can be shortened and used to extend runners, threaded round chockstones or placed on spikes.
Cams are heavy and not strictly necessary. Much of the climbing is very traditionally protected and climbs such as the In Pinn can be protected entirely with slings if you so choose. Long slings are better than short extenders which increase rope drag and also the risk of gear being lifted out.
Rope
The entire ridge can be done with a single 35m rope. A short rope means less weight and is much easier to manage both coiling and short roping. Many will take a longer rope and this does give you more options especially if things go wrong and you have to do longer than normal abseils. Taking a 35m rope rather than a 50cm or 60m rope is probably the easiest single way to save a lot of weight and bulk in your pack.
The rope needs to be thick enough to handle well for the short roping so super skinny ropes are not ideal and will soon get trashed on the super abrasive Cuillin rocks. Lots of guides use a 35m Beal Joker, which at 54g per metre is one of the lightest single ropes available. The Joker is ideal for the ridge but does require experience since it is very thin and may well be very slick in some belay devices.
Harness, helmet and head torches
All harnesses, helmets and head torches need to be as light as possible. There is no need for super comfy, padded harnesses with masses of gear loops. You won’t be falling off (hopefully) and hanging around and you will only have a minimalist rack.
Comfort is important especially for walking in because you don’t want to be continually taking the harness and off. Modern helmets are very comfortable and a good idea given the amount of loose rock and potentially other climbers knocking things down. If it’s comfortable you will be happy to keep it on rather than just wear it for the climbs and then using it as extra ballast in your pack.
Make sure you can fit a head torch to the helmet and put it on before it is dark enough to need it. One set of batteries will easily last for a traverse so ditch any spares and set off with just a brand new set in the torch.
Pack
The type of pack you take is largely down to personal preference and depends on whether you are going for a one or multi-day traverse. Simple, light and robust are characteristics to look for. Simple designs will have no unnecessary features that add weight and can snag on things. Some people will take a small pack otherwise you are tempted to take too much but I nearly always use a rucksack of around 45 litres. Being a bit larger means it is easy to get gear in and out without a struggle. This saves time and frustration especially when trying to cram the rope or rack back inside after a climb. Compatibility with a water bladder is a useful feature and enables you to keep hydrated while on the move.
Footwear
The old school of thought is that walking boots are de rigeur because they provide ankle support and more comfort on scree and the descents. If you are happy climbing to Severe with a pack on and have comfortable footwear then go for the boot option.
A whole industry has spun up manufacturing so called ‘approach shoes’, which combine the qualities of a trainer or fell running shoe with a climbing shoe. They are much better than boots for climbing in and have a much more precise fit and sticky rubber soles. The downsides are a lack of ankle support and generally not being waterproof. The latter shouldn’t be too much of a problem since if it is raining then you will probably be abandoning the ridge. If you opt for approach shoes you need to be used to wearing them for such long hill days on very rough ground with a pack.
The rough Cuillin rock can play havoc with any footwear so consider smearing glue on the stitching to protect it from abrasion. It might not look pretty but it extends the life of the shoe considerably. With care, approach shoes can last longer than you might expect but with abuse they can be trashed on a single traverse. I have worn a pair of approach shoes for a six-week period in the Cuillin and they covered 240km with 27,000m of ascent. They were trashed by the end but had seen a huge amount of use.
Choose your pack and footwear carefully and make sure you test your gear in conditions appropriate to the ridge (Sgurr a’ Mhadaidh, Section 7)
If you are thinking about rock shoes to change into then perhaps you aren’t ready yet for the ridge. Changing in and out of footwear is a waste of time and if you don’t have the grade to spare to be able to rock climb in approach shoes or boots then you may well struggle to solo the scrambling, which is a prerequisite for success. Boot or shoe is a personal choice – whichever you opt for, make sure you train in them rather than arriving at Glen Brittle with virgin footwear. Go for a comfortable fit and bear in mind that your feet will swell over a 15-hour day.
Clothing
The type of clothing you need will depend on time of year, weather forecast and style of the traverse. A one-day traverse in perfect conditions might just require a light windproof and hat in addition to what you are wearing. For multi-day trips, think about the large temperature ranges that are possible and be prepared with warmer clothes for cold clear nights.
Socks should be comfortable, tried and tested. Merino wool mixed with manmade fibres work well (pure wool seems to wear out very quickly).
Trousers need to be hardwearing to survive the rough rock. Large pockets are useful for keeping hill food, route instructions and your map etc to hand. Shorts are not recommended due to the abrasiveness of the rock.
Underwear should preferably be of manmade fibres so as to dry quickly when you sweat.
Baselayer can be long-sleeved so as to keep arms warm and double as protection from the sun. Manmade fibres are best although some merino wool/manmade fibre mixes work well. 100% wool tends to get clammy and stay damp.
A fleece will provide a useful warm layer. A thin, hooded fleece with thumb loops is ideal and can be combined with a thin Pertex windshell.
A duvet jacket could be considered as an addition especially if you are going to bivi. Synthetic is best given the prevailing maritime climate.
Waterproofs will hopefully not be needed. You probably won’t need a full metal jacket of heavy Goretex since if conditions are that bad you will be heading down. Lightweight waterproofs work well, are obviously light and pack down small.
Gloves provide useful protection against both the cold and the rough rock. A pair of thin liner gloves take very little space but may save the day if conditions change. Gloves are also useful for protection against the rough rock and rope
