walking. The main settlements are located near the sea, but the roads linking them have to cross the high, forested parts of the island. There is no coastal road because dozens of steep-sided, rocky barrancos would have to be negotiated. Walkers, on the other hand, can enjoy trekking in and out of these canyon-like barrancos, crossing the high ridges between.
Over 440km (273 miles) of walking on La Gomera are described in this book, divided into 27 days. There are 17 one-day walks, signposted as rutas (routes), and a further 10 days signposted as GR (gran recorrido) routes, which can be linked together as long-distance walks. Very few of these routes stand in isolation, and most of them link with one, two or more adjacent routes, so there are options to alter and adapt them, and some routes feature significant variants and extensions.
Readers will notice that the GR131 is described across La Gomera and El Hierro, offering coast-to-coast routes. In fact, there is much more to this trail, which stretches across all seven Canary Islands. Furthermore, the trail is part of the pan-European E7 route. On a more local scale, the GR132 offers a circular long-distance walk around La Gomera, taking anything up to a week to complete.
Getting there
By Air
Flights from Tenerife Norte to La Gomera are operated by Binter Canarias, tel 902 391 392, www.bintercanarias.com. There are no flights from Tenerife Sur. Buses meet incoming flights offering links with Playa de Santiago, San Sebastián and Valle Gran Rey. Taxis are also available at the airport.
By Ferry
Two ferry companies operate between Los Cristianos on Tenerife, and San Sebastián on La Gomera. Lineas Fred Olsen, tel 902 100 107, www.fredolsen.es, is quick and expensive. Naviera Armas, tel 902 456 500, www.navieraarmas.com, is slower and cheaper, and also serves El Hierro. Ferries berth almost in the centre of San Sebastián, within walking distance of all facilities and the bus station. Ferries also link San Sebastián with Playa de Santiago and Valle Gran Rey.
Getting around
By Bus
La Gomera has a good network of bus services operated by GuaguaGomera, tel 922 141 101, www.guaguagomera.com. Obtain an up-to-date timetable for the whole island as soon as possible, from bus stations or tourist information offices. Tickets are for single journeys and fares are paid on boarding the bus. Buses are referred to as ‘guaguas’, although bus stops, or paradas, may be marked as ‘bus’. All the towns and most villages have buses. Most visitors do not realise that the little mountain village of Chipude has the best level of services and destinations. The capital, San Sebastián, on the other hand, does not have particularly good links with some parts of the island.
By Taxi
Long taxi rides are expensive, but short journeys are worth considering. Taxi ranks are located at San Sebastián, tel 922 870 524, Playa de Santiago/Alajeró, tel 922 895 569, Valle Gran Rey, tel 922 805 058, Vallehermoso, tel 679 638 703, Agulo, tel 922 801 074 and Hermigua, tel 922 880 047. Fares are fixed by the municipalities and can be inspected on demand, although negotiation might be possible.
Planning your Transport
To make the most of walking opportunities, and limit long and awkward travelling, it is best to choose two or three accommodation bases with good bus connections. Using a car is not always a good idea, especially when following linear routes.
Linear routes described in this book always start at the ‘awkward’ end, usually high in the mountains, where you might need to use a taxi, and finish where you can catch a bus. The introduction to each walk has a note about the availability of public transport. If no bus is mentioned serving the start or finish, then the use of a taxi will be required.
The route maps in this guide are all at 1:50,000 scale with north to the top.
Accommodation
Accommodation is abundant around La Gomera, and much of it can be booked online through www.airbnb.com or www.booking.com. At the top end of the scale are the Parador at San Sebastián and the Hotel Jardin Tecina at Playa de Santiago. There are other hotels around the island, as well as simple pensións and self-catering apartments, with prices to suit all pockets. The Hotel Sonia in Chipude is an excellent base, not only because of the immediate variety of walks but also because it has good bus links.
Food and drink
La Gomera is self-sufficient in terms of fruit, vegetables and fish. While some restaurants are cosmopolitan, others offer good local fare. Specialities include goat cheese. Most is eaten just as it is. Some goat cheese, but only a little, is used to make an oily sauce called almogrote. Watercress soup (sopa de berros) sounds bland but is very tasty. Wrinkly potatoes (papas arrugadas) cooked in salt are surprisingly refreshing in hot weather, served with hot mojo roja sauce and gentler mojo verde.
The most popular fish dishes are based on vieja. If any dishes such as soups or stews need thickening, then reach for the roasted flour gofio, which also serves as a breakfast cereal. Many desserts are enhanced with miel de palma, or palm honey, a dark syrup from Canarian palm trees. There are also Gomeran wines available. Never pass an opportunity to indulge in local fare!
Tourist information offices
San Sebastián, tel 922 141 512
Playa de Santiago, tel 922 895 650
Valle Gran Rey, tel 922 805 458
WALK 1
San Sebastián and Jaragán
| Start/finish | Plaza de la Constitución, San Sebastián |
| Distance | 18.5km (11½ miles) |
| Total ascent/descent | 700m (2295ft) |
| Time | 5hr |
| Terrain | Roads, tracks and rugged paths on the ascent. A steep descent and a long road walk to finish. |
| Refreshments | Plenty of choice in San Sebastián. Bars at Lomo Fragoso and El Langrero. |
| Transport | Buses converge on San Sebastián from all parts of La Gomera |
| Note | Route uses Rutas 30, 32 and GR132 |
After climbing from the centre of San Sebastián to its highest suburbs, tracks give way to rugged mountain paths across the face of Jaragán. A ridge walk is followed by a steep and rugged descent through scrub into a valley. A simple road walk returns to San Sebastián.
Start in the centre of San Sebastián on a corner of the Plaza de la Constitución beside the Bar Restaurante La Hila. Walk up the narrow Camino de La Hila and turn right. The stone-paved street climbs, ending with steps to the Mirador de La Hila. Enjoy the views and continue up the road, keeping right at a junction
