American, and lots of fun. One thing for sure, it’s got a lot of character. 37 Baltimore, MD
38 Baltimore, MDSTAYHOTEL MONACO The old B&O Railway headquarters in Downtown has now been sleekly converted into this upmarket hotel. Big rooms and a friendly touch (dog-friendly policy an added bonus for some). 2 North Charles St, Baltimore, MD 21201, www.monaco-baltimore.comTHE ADMIRAL FELL INN This is a really nice hotel right on the water in the historic neighborhood of Fells Point. It’s on the higher end of the pricing spectrum, but it’s really pleasant, comes complete with its own ghost story, and provides easy access to the restaurants and shopping in the cobbled streets around. 888 South Broadway, Baltimore, MD 21231, www.sterlinghotels.comABACROMBIE FINE FOOD AND ACCOMMODATIONS A conveniently located, mid-range B&B in the culture-rich neighborhood of Mount Vernon – across from the Symphony and down the street from the Walters Art Gallery. It has a pretty good restaurant attached. 58 West Biddle St, Baltimore, MD 21201, www.abacrombie.netBALTIMORE HOSTEL A good budget option with lots of common space and a decent Downtown location. 17 West Mulberry St, Baltimore, MD 21201, www.baltimorehostel.org
39 Baltimore, MDGOLDEN WEST CAFE This funky cafe has a colourful, eccentric vibe and fits right into the small-town atmosphere of Hampden. It can sometimes feel too cool (and too popular) for its own good, but their food more than makes up for it. I recommend the Mental Oriental salad or the pumpkin pancakes. 1105 West 36th St, Baltimore, MD 21211, www.goldenwestcafe.comIGGIE’S PIZZA Top dollar, wood-fired, thin crust pizza with fresh toppings, loads of vegetarian options, and a BYO policy. Plus it’s dog-friendly. 818 North Calvert St, Baltimore, MD 21264, www.iggiespizza.com MISS SHIRLEY’S Brunch is my favorite meal of the day, and this is one of my favorite places to indulge. Their Roland Park Omelet with asparagus, red peppers, artichoke, and goats cheese is a sight to behold. The Pratt Street branch is across the road from Inner Harbor, so a nice place to walk afterwards. 513 West Cold Spring Lane, Baltimore, MD 21210 and 750 East Pratt St, Baltimore, MD 21202, www.missshirleys.comSOTTO SOPRA A romantic place serving creative Italian dishes. Dim lighting and well thought out decor make it a nice atmosphere – even if it does get crowded at times. It’s pretty pricey, but makes a nice treat. Be sure to finish off the meal with an incredible coffee. 402 North Charles St, Baltimore, MD 21201, www.sottosoprainc.comPAPERMOON DINER This 24-hour diner is a total one-off. Every inch of the space, including the ceiling, is covered in toys, nicknacks, pez dispensers, and weird sculptures. The food is solid, traditional diner fare, but the atmosphere is totally in its own league. 227 West 29th St, Baltimore, MD 21211, www.papermoondiner24.comTHE EVERGREEN A charming, independently run coffee shop with mismatched seats, plants, and the work of local artists creating a homely vibe. Great coffee, sandwiches, and frozen yogurt. 501 West Coldspring Lane, Baltimore, MD 21210THE AMBASSADOR DINING ROOM This upmarket Indian restaurant is basically tucked inside an apartment block. The ambience is always lovely – it opens up onto a large garden in summer, and has a cozy fireplace in winter. The food is not cheap, but it’s good, and you can go for the lunch buffet if you’re on a budget. 3811 Canterbury Rd, Baltimore, MD 21218, www.ambassadordining.comEAT
40 Baltimore, MDBREWER’S ART This classy joint was recently voted the best bar in America in Esquire magazine. High praise that it actually manages to live up to. It has a dimly lit downstairs bar area, serving a vast selection of hand-crafted brews and bar snacks, and a brighter upstairs dining room serving proper food. The Resurrection Ale is the one to try. 1106 North Charles St, Baltimore, MD 21201, www.belgianbeer.comMT ROYAL TAVERN The diviest of dive bars – cheap drinks, disgusting toilets, and a recreation of the Sistine Chapel on the ceiling. It attracts a strange mix of art students and middle aged drunks. Fun. 1204 West Mount Royal Ave, Baltimore, MD 21217DRINKDOUGHERTY’S PUB A nice, chilled out, standard pub, where you can have a conversation without shouting, relax with a mixed crowd, and drink cheap beer served in pitchers by friendly staff. If it looks familiar, that’s because it featured in The Wire. 223 West Chase St, Baltimore, MD 21201THE DEPOT A grungy, unpretentious club that attracts a young, friendly crowd. It’s pretty quiet on a weeknight, but it’s still a place to go for dancing, rather than just for drinking. Fridays are 80s music nights and it gets packed. 1728 North Charles St, Baltimore, MD 21201DIONYSUS Around the corner from Brewer’s Art, the exterior of this place looks unpromising, but inside it’s great. It has a cosy lounge-style downstairs bar and serves Greek food and good pizza. 8 East Preston St, Baltimore, MD 21202
41 Baltimore, MDSHOPTHE BOOK THING This is an amazing institution that has to be seen to be believed. A warehouse-sized warren of dusty rooms lined with second-hand books. The incredible thing is that all of them are FREE! I know! I’ve found some real gems here. In return you should really donate any old books you have lying about. Open on weekends. 3001 Vineyard Lane, Baltimore, MD 21218, www.bookthing.org THE ZONE A total must for the vintage clothing enthusiast. Friendly staff and brilliantly selected stock in the front room of a brownstone in a very hip area. 813 North Charles St, Baltimore, MD 21201MILAGRO A Hampden boutique selling jewelry, clothes, art, and gifts from around the world. Really nice selection of objects. 1005 West 36th St, Baltimore, MD 21211ATOMIC BOOKS A quirky, independent bookstore selling zines, comics, and designer art toys. Conveniently located across the road from Golden West (see Eat). 3620 Falls Rd, Baltimore, MD 21211, www.atomicbooks.com VALUE VILLAGE THRIFT STORE A neighborhood thrift store stocked with good finds at rock bottom prices. 5013 York Rd, Baltimore, MD 21212VOGUE REVISITED A neighborhood consignment shop selling discounted designer clothing and accessories. It can get crowded at weekends. 4002 Roland Ave, Baltimore, MD 21211CROSS STREET MARKET An indoor food market with an old fashioned vibe. Sit at the bar and try the crabcakes at Nick’s. 1065 South Charles St, Baltimore, MD 21230DOUBLE DUTCH BOUTIQUE Women’s clothing, jewelry, handbags, and shoes by interesting contemporary indie labels, and some great one-off designs. The first Friday of the month you can sometimes get 10-20 percent off your purchases. 3616 Falls Rd, Baltimore, MD 21211, www.doubledutchboutique.comDAEDALUS BOOKS A well organised, no-frills warehouse bookstore selling discounted remainder books. And not just random stuff you’re not interested in. Most of the stock is under $5. 5911 York Rd, Baltimore, MD 21212, www.daedalusbooks.com
42 Baltimore, MDAMERICAN VISIONARY ART MUSEUM You can’t really miss this crazy elliptical building with its 55ft wind sculpture dominating the exterior. It’s a museum dedicated to ‘art by everyday people’ – a kind of folk art by self-taught artists – often with a political/social context; a quilt by a holocaust survivor, or a sculpture by a Baghdad surgeon for example. It’s a quirky
