many places, harvesting is still done with hand tools such as the sickle, a long, curved blade used for cutting many stalks of grain at once. These are the methods that home grain growers can look to as resources.
QUESTIONS ARISE: And this is why writing this book matters. For most of my life I took for granted the benefits of large-scale commercial agriculture, with its high efficiency and low cost. A modern miracle, no doubt, but it may be bringing unintended consequences. As scientists develop improved crops, we see agricultural practices evolve – the most controversial practice being the application of persistent herbicides and systemic pesticides (see Chapter Four).
Could some agricultural practices be negatively affecting health? It’s a question that needs to be raised and settled. In the years to come, I hope and expect that will happen, and more information will be discovered regarding the rise of gluten intolerances and serious diseases like celiac. I do not want to speculate without proper data about conventional agricultural practices, and I encourage you to not rush to judgment on this topic either. But be mindful of what you eat and seek to learn about how it was grown. For me, my simple solution is to grow some of my own grains and support local farmers who cultivate a diverse range of crops, using organic methods whenever possible.
The act of gardening is meaningful. By growing the plants that you love to eat you impact more than just your own diet. You can influence your neighbors and create habitat for local insects and wildlife. The roots of your plants will help clean storm water. And every single time you eat something that you grew, you help reduce food miles. Gardening is a hobby that provides untold environmental benefits and solutions. I hope you will always remember that you are doing your part to make the world a better place, one plant at a time! ■
Four
Ancient Grains to Modern-Day Cultivation
Ancient grains are a whole subject unto themselves and have recently garnered a fair amount of attention. The term conjures up a kind of exotic appeal, a return to a purer state, in tune with grains’ essential nature. And yet, it’s not a term that has a fixed meaning. With interest in ancient grains on the rise, it is important to examine what it does mean.
Since all cereals are technically ancient (having historical and archeological relevance dating back thousands of years), how can some be called ancient and others not? The current distinction relates to the purity of the strain. Generally, the term “ancient grains” refers to crops that are largely unchanged over the last several hundred years of cultivation. They have not been manipulated through commercial hybridization or genetic modifications. They therefore replicate the germplasm – the genetic material of germ cells – that would have been grown in ancient times.
When people inquire about “ancient grains,” they are most often referring to wheat – specifically, the varieties of einkorn, emmer (or farro), khorosan (or Kamut) and spelt.
Beyond wheat, heirloom varieties of other proper cereal grains such as black barley, red and black rice, blue corn, sorghum and millet are also classified as ancient grains. To make this even more intriguing, pseudo-cereal crops such as amaranth, buckwheat, chia and quinoa are also considered to be ancient grains. Obviously, this is a broad category full of complications, contradictions and the potential for misinformation.
WHAt ABOUT HEIRLOOMS? The term heirloom is always a cause of confusion. In my mind, it is an open-pollinated plant that pre-dates 1930. It isn’t necessarily “ancient,” in that these varieties marketed as heirloom are not thousands of years old. As I have researched the term “heirloom” – not only for grain but also in reference of the ever-so-popular category of tomatoes – the defining characteristics revolve around the idea that these are old varieties that are no longer in mainstream production. As a result, they are perceived to be more valuable, boasting better flavor and higher nutritional density. Those assumptions are not always accurate, which is part of the problem with terms like “heirloom” or “ancient” being used to market food crops. It is fair to say that both terms refer to old varieties that stir romantic notions of the past.
That is not to say there isn’t great nutritional value in these olden-times selections. Ancient wheat berries are lower in gluten and higher in protein and micronutrients. Einkorn, for example, has a higher concentration of beta carotene compared to modern varieties. In the end, like all things, it is your job as the consumer to do your research and gain a better understanding about the food you eat every day.
ANCIENT WHEAT VARIETIES AND THEIR BOTANICAL NAMES:
Einkorn – Triticum monococcum
Emmer or Farro – Triticum dicoccum
Khorosan or Kamut – Triticum turanicum
Spelt – Triticum spelta
I experiment with ancient grains
The first cereal crop I grew was not an ancient variety. The grain that Chip Hope challenged me to cultivate was a hard red spring wheat called ‘Glenn’, which was introduced by North Dakota State University. To say the least, it was a resounding success that left me full of confidence in my grain growing ability. After that, and because I’m a born experimenter, I was determined to try my hand at varieties that felt more authentic – some ancient grains. Just thinking about it made me happy. I enjoy cultivating Old World plants as a means of connecting to times long past. That is one of those privileges we modern gardeners can indulge in, because we are not depending on these crops as our sole source of nutrition.
Seed of ancient grains, specifically wheat, was readily available from my beloved heirloom sources, so access was just a few clicks away. Naturally, I ordered ten packs of every variety listed and took to the garden in a fit of glory and excitement.
Since I cherished these seeds, I was careful to sow them exactly according to the instructions. These ancient grains would occupy the most prized real estate in the garden. Every week I logged their progress, taking thousands of photos to document their growth. I was loving it!
AND THEN… Winter can be a difficult season no matter where you live. Temperature fluctuations and snow all wreaked havoc on my freshly germinated sprouts. After a sudden low in the single digits and sustained temperatures below freezing, entire crops melted to the ground, composting in place, never to be seen again. The crushing reality of why modern hybrids were created started to seep into my awareness.
As temperatures began to warm up, the remaining ancient grains sprang to life and reignited my dream of self-sufficiency the old-fashioned way. Then, much to my dismay, I watched as a strong wind and thunderstorm blew my ancient crops to the ground.
Initially, I thought it was no big deal. Surely, upon drying they would perk back up. But alas, they did not. That was my first experience with crop lodging, meaning the stem broke at the base and flopped over. I lost more than 80% of my ancient grains that spring and I learned a valuable lesson: Do not dismiss the importance of science, genetic improvements and the evolution of plants.
Online retailers have a wide variety of ancient grain seed.
A ripening field
