Purple Coneflower (Echinacea purpurea)
Coneflower (Echinacea purpurea) ‘Hot Lava’
Nativars
This is a good time to bring up nativars. These are cultivated varieties of a native plant. Thankfully, native plant sales are booming, given the heightened interest of incorporating natives, not only to benefit pollinators but also for their less demanding nature. This new interest, along with increased revenue opportunities for those in the industry, has propelled intense breeding within native families to introduce flowers with new colors, sizes, shapes and abundance. And although these nativars may be more striking to consumers, research indicates that many nativars are less attractive, or beneficial, to pollinators. Research is showing that the more a native plant has been “hybridized,” i.e., looks different in flower shape or color, the less beneficial it is to pollinators. Annie S. White, at the University of Vermont, under the tutelage of my friend Dr. Leonard Perry, has been doing extensive field research on natives versus nativars. To learn more about her ongoing work, visit pollinatorgardens.org.
Annie White, conducting research on natives and nativars while a PhD student in Plant & Soil Sciences at the University of Vermont
■ Pay more, get more? Sometimes it is wise to pay more money for a larger perennial. There are some perennials that grow very slowly and will not bloom until they reach a certain size and maturity. So while I could save money and buy Dictamnus* in a 4-inch square as a first year specimen, it will most likely take four or five years before flowering. If you are a type-A personality like me, or you’re getting up there in years (who isn’t?), it just makes sense to spend a few more dollars on an older plant with immediate returns. A few other “tortoise-paced” growing perennials include peony and Baptisia.
*Dictamnus is commonly called gas plant because it emits fumes from the flowers that are flammable. Both the foliage and flowers smell like lemon. Please note that resin and oil from the leaves may cause severe rashes, welts and even oozing blisters. I have not had this reaction, but proceed with caution, especially if you have sensitive skin.
Gas Plant (Dictamnus albus) ‘Purpureus’
■ Buy shortlived perennials in 4-inch pots. Or start them from seed. Why invest money in a large container when the plant will likely fizzle away in three years (maybe less)? Thankfully, most shortlived perennials bloom in their first year. Some attractive “fly-by-nights” include flax (Linum), mullein (Verbascum), Malva ‘Zebrina’, dwarf Delphinium (Delphinium grandiflorum and chinensis), blackberry lily (Belamacanda), Iceland poppy (Papaver nudicaule), columbine (Aquilegia) and English Daisy (Bellis perennis). Another dead giveaway that you’re looking at a short-lived perennial is when the plant tag states “allow some to reseed to enjoy more the next season.”
Iceland Poppy (Papaver nudicaule)
Malva ‘Zabrina’
■ Buy fast-growing perennials in small containers. Give these fast growers an inch and they will take a mile – or close to it! Some “fleet of root” include bee balm (Monarda), gooseneck (Lysimachia clethroides), obedient plant (Physostegia, and don’t be fooled by the cultivar ‘Miss Manners’), threadleaf tickseed ‘Zagreb’ and ‘Golden Showers’ (Coreopsis), ladybells (Adenorpha) and spotted bellflower ‘Cherry Bells’ (Campanula punctata). Which leads to the question, where are you thinking of planting these? I’m not suggesting that they’re bad plants, you just need to be realistic about their intentions. If you think they will politely stay where planted, dream on! Which reminds me, Coreopsis rosea ‘Dream On’ is also aggressive. Fast-spreading perennials usually need yearly “editing” (thinning). Better to plant them where they can run wild and frolic with others of their kind – as a ground cover or in a meadow or wildflower garden.
Spotted Bellflower (Campanula punctata) ‘Cherry Bells’
Bare Root Plants
Save a wheelbarrow of money by buying daylilies, Hosta and peonies as bare root plants (other perennials are also available). Bare roots cost less to ship than container plants – plus, frequently they have more mature root systems. If you have never planted a bare root perennial, you might feel awkward at first. The “dead looking” root can be unnerving. First, place “sleeping beauty” in some tepid water and allow it to soak for at least thirty minutes to an hour. Then place the hydrated root in a container of potting soil or plant directly in the landscape if the temperature is consistently above freezing.
A bare root of perennial Russian Sage (Perovskia) being potted up.
If you are confused about which end goes up, look closely for stem remnants indicating where the plant was cut back after being harvested the year before. The stem end goes up. Place the bare root in the hole so the crown (where the stem meets the roots) is even with the soil surface. Hold the plant in place with one hand and push soil around the roots with the other, filling the hole. Then water in gently so as not to wash soil away from roots. If you still can’t make heads or tails of which end goes up, plant the root on its side and it will solve the problem for you.
After eight weeks the bare root has grown into a gorgeous specimen!
■ Steer clear of perennials that show signs of insect or disease problems, no matter how tempting to put them in your cart. Save your Clara Barton skills for your spouse, children, pets or friends. Bringing a sick plant home to the garden is only inviting trouble to spread.
■ Scrutinize variegated perennials for signs of leaves reverting to solid green. You really can’t blame a plant for trying to shed its variegation. Less chlorophyll (green pigment) in leaves makes a plant less efficient at photosynthesis, needed for food production. Some variegated perennials that have a tendancy to revert include Sedum, Phlox, Arabis and Heliopsis.
This variegated Sedum at a garden center is already showing signs of reverting to a solid green.
■ What to do with a lovable “thug”: If you must have a perennial that is considered a thug (a plant that spreads rapidly, invading its neighbors or even your home!) then there are a few options: 1) you can create a meadow garden where it can range freely (assuming it is NOT on the invasive list, check with your regional extension office); 2) “imprison” it in a large container (with the bottom cut off) sunk into the ground. Make sure the container’s sides are at least 6–8 inches long. Or, 3) check if there is a variegated, chartreuse or blue-leaved cultivar
