style="font-size:15px;"> It takes time to build up good soil fertility and structure in all parts of the foodscape, but because of its location, Zone 3 can be the last to receive attention, and so the soil is usually not as rich and fertile as soil in other areas of the yard – another reason to carefully select plants for this zone. You’ll improve the soil in this area by planting-hole amendments (adding compost directly to the planting hole) and then mulching the entire bed. This will allow for weed suppression, water retention and tidiness. You don’t need to add a thick layer of compost to an entire bed before you plant and then mulch again on top. After planting, if you mulch yearly, the soil will continue to improve as the mulch breaks down.
Because of the lower soil fertility and lower time spent caring for plants in Zone 3, all seasonal annual edibles and flowers should be direct-sown – planted as seeds directly into the garden. (Learn more about planting edibles in Chapter Three.) Direct-sown plants establish much deeper and more extensive root systems, so they’re considerably more drought tolerant than transplants. For new trees and shrubs, keep a close eye for several weeks and water frequently after you first plant them – every day at first, then moving to every other day, a couple times a week, and weekly. Eventually, they’ll need no supplemental water unless your geographical area is experiencing a prolonged drought, but everything does need to be watered thoroughly and frequently immediately after being planted.
PLANTS FOR ZONE 3
Trees & Shrubs
• Apple
• Blackberry
• Cherry
• Chestnut
• Fig
• Honeyberry
• Paw paw
• Peach
• Pecan
• Persimmon
• Raspberry
• Walnut
Seasonal Annual Edibles & Flowers
Warm Season
• Amaranth
• Celosia
• Dry corn (such as Bloody Butcher, an heirloom variety)
• Mexican Sunflower
• Peanut
• Sorghum
• Soybean
• Sweet Corn
• Zinnia
Cool Season
• Carrot
• Collards
• Horseradish
• Mustard Greens
• Parsnip
• Rhubarb
• Rutabaga
• Turnip
ZONE 2
Zone 2 is between the street and the house: mid-yard. This could be an island flower bed in the front or back yard or a landscape bed delineating the property lot line. Zone 2 areas usually have better access to water than Zone 3 but still may not get watered as frequently as plantings closer to the house. Unless you have a sprinkler system on a timer, it can take a bit more effort to water these areas (i.e., dragging hoses and watering cans around).
I manage Zone 2 by planting only twice a year. This is where my grain meadows (with inter-planted herbs and flowers) grow. It’s possibly one of the most low-maintenance ways to garden, and it looks attractive. As a bonus, the edible meadow acts to screen the view from the street and provides seasonal privacy. Zone 2 areas are usually planted with a ratio of 60% ornamentals to 40% edibles, leaving enough ornamental interest to keep the bed looking full year-round, no matter what stage of growth the edibles are in. (See page 123 for how to create a property screen meadow.)
It’s important to spend more time prepping the soil in Zone 2. I recommend spreading between 3-5" of compost seasonally before planting, then finishing the beds with mulch. The soil will gradually build fertility over time, but will do so faster than soil in Zone 3 areas because of the yearly broad application of compost. This is still an area where the bulk of edibles and flowers should be direct-sown to give you lower maintenance.
PLANTS FOR ZONE 2
Trees & Shrubs
• Aronia
• Currant
• Blackberry
• Dwarf Fruit Trees
• Elderberry
• Hazelnut (Filbert)
• Honeyberry
• Gooseberry
• Grape
• Raspberry
Seasonal Annual Edibles & Flowers
Warm Season
• Basil
• Buckwheat
• Chive
• Celosia
• Cleome
• Coleus
• Cosmos
• Eggplant
• Peanut
• Pepper
• Sesame
• Soybean
• Strawflower
• Sunflower
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