else on board, to get out of uniform and into civilian clothes as fast as possible, because the Germans after torpedoing our ship would come up and shell any life boat with officers in it. He himself changed into civilian clothes, but none of us did, either because we didn’t particularly care or because we were too proud of our uniforms, probably the latter. Everyone gave him the “rahs” all the time, especially Chip, who is rather good at that sort of thing anyway.
About that time, too, we got acquainted with an Australian major, a great boy, who had some wonderful stories. I sometimes wondered whether he had ever heard them before himself. He had lost a leg and received the D.S.O. and was now on his way to enlist in the R.F.C. It seems as though everything in the future will be known by initials. RFC means Royal Flying Corps. DSO means Distinguished Service Cross primarily. Secondarily its meaning is—unmentionable here.
We also became distantly acquainted with a few of the soldiers who were about the crudest bunch I ever saw. Except for a few majors who had been in service they would have been a disgrace to the Devil. The few women on board may have been of a good sort, but Scab Smith was the only one who knows. But at any rate they got up a very punk concert and made $200 for a seamen’s home.61 Nobody else on board got very clubby with us, but we didn’t particularly care, as we certainly hoped that they and we would not go to the same place when we got abroad anyway. As soon as we entered the war zone the weather became perfect and the wonderful days and the full moon scared everyone to death lest the Germans spot us.
Of course as soon as we entered the war zone the weather became perfect and Downs was apparently right when he said that the wonderful days and nights with full moon shining down were most advantageous for the Germans. The night we entered the zone, everyone sat up, especially Downs, till about 1:30! Then Hen Landon and I had a long debate as to whether we should wear our life preservers or our automatics to bed with us. We decided to carry the guns. Then we went to bed and in about five minutes Chip burst in to announce that three destroyers had been sighted and were to convoy us. So we slept well. The weather for the next three days of the trip was great and we enjoyed it immensely. The army officers kept watch to no purpose except [to] satisfy their vanity. Although we offered our services, the lieutenant didn’t need them. We sighted probably three subs, one of which came up about 50 yards off by miscalculation and because we were continually zigzagging, and so fortunately missed us. We sighted land Monday but had to lay at anchor on account of lateness of hour, just outside the bar.62
Tuesday [October 2, 1917]—We awakened to find ourselves at anchor in the river just opposite the landing stage [Liverpool].63 But owing to the large number of ships we could barely land at a dock about 1:45. So we got off and easily got through the customs, found our way by a devious path to the Adelphia Hotel. Storing our luggage, we started off, Scab and I, to look the place over. Then we started to examine England. It is a Hell of a place. At the first store we came upon we purchased sticks and for the rest of the day felt like asses.64 The streets were full of men in khaki, and lots of wounded and convalescent in their light blue uniforms. It looked as though the whole English army had been shot up. It made us both feel pretty low to look at these latter. After [piping?] everything in this hole we returned as arranged to the Adelphia and had tea. Here we saw the elite of Liverpool and weren’t elated. Here too for the first time we suffered privation—we could have but one lump of sugar per person and very little toast. In fact the tea was no success. However we chatted a bit with a couple of U.S. Lieutenants near by and were a bit cheered up. After this we took the 5:20 to London, arriving at about 11:00. We found taxis for our luggage and put up at the Savoy as Scab said we needed gaiety.65
Wednesday [October 3, 1917]—We got up at 10:00 and shopped till lunch, which we had at the Savoy. I felt like the deuce but perked up about lunchtime. After lunch we met a Capt. Libby, R.F.C., who is a peach and is going to U.S. as a Major in Army flying. He doped up a big party for the next night, he, and a Scotch lieutenant in our navy, named Schoen. We slipped up to the Lieut.’s room and they all drank. Chip held up the honor as Scab and I weren’t in their class. Then we had tea and a big dinner—same bunch as on ship and saw “Chu Chin Chou,” which was punk. After it we all went to Murray’s and danced with the worst dancers, ugliest girls I ever had the misfortune to be near.66 Some British navy lieutenant urged us to come to Albert’s rooms to a dance, first ditching the present low ladies. Personally I couldn’t see any difference in them and those at the latter dance. Here there was lots of champagne and most of the crude crowd partook. I danced once with a 1ittle kipper who was as fruity as the rest and then went home to a good bed with Scab. Unfortunately we didn’t lock the door and I woke up to find the light on and a girl pulling Ken out of bed. It seems they had come back from the party with the navy officer and were finishing it up in a room near us. Ken went in there but to my infinite relief in a few minutes came back and advised that he had turned out the lights and slipped out, locking them in.
Thursday [October 4, 1917]—Shopped all day and wrote letters that night as I couldn’t stand the party that the rest went on. Went to attaché.67
Friday [October 5, 1917]—Walked a lot and saw a couple of shows in afternoon and night, ordered a uniform at Burberry’s and some wings. Lunch at Claridges was very good.68 Also went to attaché and at last got some dope. We are to go to France and go to two schools, one first for about four hours in F.B.A. and then to the Mediterranean for real practice. After the show at night I returned to bed but the rest of course went on a [bat?]. Poor Devils.
Saturday, October 6, 1917. Left at 11:30 and went to Felixstowe to the RNAS station there.69 We were met by a couple of autos and officers and from then on were treated like princes. There a lot of officers took us in charge and showed us around and told us some good stories of their work. This is a big station [RNAS Felixstowe] with 24 pilots and lots of men. The hangars are in wonderful shape with dugouts around because of the Boche raids. The first thing they sprang on us was the Porte or “Baby,” a boat of 136 [124]-foot spread, and three 290-hp Rolls Royces. The most gigantic machines I ever saw carrying six men—two pilots as they go out for five or six hours a day at a time. They carry fuel for eight hours and each motor uses 25 gallons per hour. They have four Lewis guns that can fire in almost every direction. They make about 80 and can fly at 45. Next we saw the regular machines—somewhat smaller with two motors, three men, four guns, but still three or four times as big as our “F” boats. Besides these, there were several pontoon machines and one Sopwith “Pup,” a peach of a land machine, little and just the first fighting machine I had ever seen. They also showed us the 230- and 100-pound bombs they carry, either two of the former or four of the latter.70
As this is the biggest and best station they have it is frequently subjected to Boche raids. At 5:00 the gave us tea and sent us to the town where we had supper at the Felixistowe Hotel and then we left on the 7:11 for London, arriving at about 7:45 after a light supper during which I perceived the first good-looking English girl I’ve seen—most of them, by the way, are in terrible shape—bad teeth, big feet and ankles, but with good complexions, and can’t touch the good old U.S. girls. Then I spent an hour writing in this simple book.
Sunday, October 7, 1917. Being the day of rest none of us seven arose till 1:30. Then after exactly 12 hours sleep we were feeling pretty high. From bed we hurried over to the [Ye Olde] Cheshire Cheese for a fair but large luncheon.71 One felt very intellectual sitting in Sam[uel] Johnson’s seat and reading the visitors’ books. Afterwards we saw Sam’s china, watch, etc. The proprietor apparently felt that with Johnson’s chair, etc., his guests would not worry about the quality of the food. From this wonderful display I went back to 108 Savoy and wrote and read till about seven when Chip, Sam, Fred, and I went to the Carlton for dinner.72 Then home again and I read a bit more before slipping between the sheets.
Monday, October 8, 1917. We all got up feeling pretty high and went to the attaché. He gave us some orders and a lot more dope, probably all bull. We were to leave Tuesday. Sam was appointed sort of leader—a hell of a job as it meant looking out for baggage, etc. Went to Burberry’s to hurry on uniform with “Scab.” Also a last bit of shopping. Had lunch about 3:00 at the Savoy and then frocked
