Landscaping with Trees in the Midwest. Scott A. Zanon

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Landscaping with Trees in the Midwest - Scott A. Zanon

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and cumbersome to work with. That being said, larger plants are often only available in this form.

      Dig a hole two to three times wider than the root ball; this allows emerging roots to expand horizontally into the loose soil near the soil surface where more oxygen is present. Make sure the root-ball top sits just above the soil grade.

      After the plant is placed properly in the hole, backfill halfway and water to reduce air pocket development. This will also assist in stabilizing the plant. Contrary to popular belief, remove all wire or rope tied around the main trunk and remove the burlap from the top of the root ball. The burlap on the bottom of the root ball will decompose and disintegrate as the roots grow through it and expand.

      Backfill and attempt to break up large clods of soil preventing air pockets. Construct a raised berm around the outside planting hole. Do not place extra soil on top of the root ball. Gently water inside of the berm allowing the soil to settle around the root ball. Once again, do not use your feet to tamp the area.

       Watering

      One inch of water per week during the first year is a good guide. In our northern climate, irrigate until the ground freezes. During dry periods, water established trees every 10 to 14 days.

       Mycorrhizal Fungi

      This soil treatment (supplement) for trees is a standard part of reforestry practices in most areas of the world and has been around since the 1850s. Coexisting with trees and plants in nature, these beneficial fungi provide a safety net for the tree in times of stress. By colonizing the roots and extending themselves further into the soil, the fungi enable the tree to absorb more nutrients and moisture, resulting in a healthier tree better capable of tolerating stressful conditions.

       Fertilizing

      New plantings should not be fertilized during the first year. For established plants, in the early spring use a complete fertilizer at a rate of two pounds per one inch of trunk diameter. Apply a second application at the same rate in late summer. An easy and effective way to apply the granular fertilizer is with a broadcast spreader.

       Mulching

      A layer of mulch, three to four inches deep, around newly planted or established trees helps maintain soil moisture, smothers weeds, regulates temperature, and protects from the dreaded trimmer or lawnmower trunk damage (lawn mower blight).

       Pruning

      Inspect your new planting and remove any broken, dead, or diseased limbs. Wait one to two years before beginning to train and shape. Use selective pruning for established trees as needed to maintain size, shape, and to encourage growth, flowering, and fruiting. Most plants respond favorably to late winter or early spring pruning. It is also easier to see what needs to be pruned when leaves are absent. Remember, though, to prune spring-blooming plants right after they flower, not before, or no flowers will exist.

       Staking

      Proper staking is done to prevent the root ball from rocking; it is not intended to prevent the top of the tree from being blown about by the wind. A stable root ball is necessary for good root development. But almost all staking should be removed after one year; many times staking is not even warranted.

       Deciduous Trees

       1. Acer buergerianum—Trident Maple

       2. Acer griseum—Paperbark Maple

       3. Acer pensylvanicum—Striped Maple; Moosewood; Snake Bark Maple

       4. Acer rubrum—Red Maple; Swamp Maple

       5. Acer saccharum—Sugar Maple; Rock Maple; Hard Maple

       6. Aesculus octandra—Yellow Buckeye

       7. Aesculus parviflora—Bottlebrush Buckeye

       8. Aesculus pavia—Red Buckeye

       9. Amelanchier spp.—Serviceberry; Juneberry; Sarvisberry; Saskatoon; Shadblow; Shadbush

       10. Asimina triloba—Common Pawpaw; Custard Apple

       11. Betula nigra—River Birch

       12. Carpinus betulus—European Hornbeam; Common Hornbeam

       13. Carpinus caroliniana—American Hornbeam; Musclewood; Blue Beech; Ironwood

       14. Cercidiphyllum japonicum—Katsuratree

       15. Cercis canadensis—Eastern Redbud

       16. Chionanthus virginicus—White Fringetree

       17. Cladrastis kentukea—American Yellowwood

       18. Cornus alternifolia—Pagoda Dogwood; Alternate-leaf Dogwood

       19. Cornus florida—Flowering Dogwood

       20. Cornus kousa—Kousa Dogwood; Chinese Dogwood

       21. Cornus mas—Corneliancherry Dogwood

       22. Fagus sylvatica—European Beech

       23. Franklinia alatamaha—Franklinia; Franklin Tree

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