Perhaps the only thing worse than an insecure room that is discovered is an improperly wired room that results in a fire. When it comes to safety, don’t skimp and don’t take chances.
An unnecessary mess: tie down loose wires and cords with Velcro straps or twist ties.
Once the space is selected, you will need to prepare the room (or rooms) properly. Soon, you’ll have new baby plants growing here. You definitely want to prep the babies’ room before they come home. Ideally, you will have sufficient space to create two dedicated rooms in which you will grow and maintain your garden: a “veg” room and a “bud” room. The veg room will house plants grown from seed or cloned cuttings and will expose them to a light cycle that is either 18/6 light to dark or even has the lights on 24/7. The other room will be the “bud” room, a space into which physically mature plants will be moved when vegging is complete. This room will be set up on a 12/12 light/dark cycle, meant to mimic the shorter days of the autumn harvest season. It is essential that each room is light-tight. Escaping light could arouse suspicion from passersby and light entering could actually harm your grow, particularly light bleeding into a sloppily assembled bud room. A larger room can even be split into two sections with relative ease. This book shows a grow conducted in a room smaller than a typical walk-in closet that has been split into two rooms; that is, less than four feet tall with each room measuring about four feet across and less than that deep, with a small antechamber of similar size in between the two grow rooms.
At least two timers are required to operate two rooms on different light cycles. Here a small timer is plugged into a power bar that also has a separate timer.
If you can dedicate one other small space of say four feet across by two deep and two high, you will also be able to create a dedicated space for hanging your harvested bud to dry. This room is the easiest to assemble: all it really requires is a space where you can string several lengths of string like clothes lines, tied securely and with sufficient clearance (a minimum of 18 inches to be safe) to hang stems while they dry. Finally, you will need space to work (a basement work bench is ideal) that is adequately lit and that allows for easy access to stored tools and supplies.
1. Avoid accumulation of dead vegetative matter, particularly in pots as it can breed mould and attract pests.
2. Clean up spills immediately whenever possible.
3. Use vinegar to disinfect all soiled surfaces between grows.
4. Sweep/vacuum regularly.
5. If rodents are present (e.g. if grow room is located in a basement), be sure to set ample traps in the vicinity of the grow.
6. Deal with spider webs. Never allow webs to be set on or near plants.
7. Clean tops of nutrient bottles to seal well after use. Otherwise, gummy remnants will accumulate.
8. Keep buckets used for watering clean. Rinsing should be sufficient day-to-day, but clean occasionally with soap and water (after each grow for instance).
9. Keep work area clean and free of household crap as much as possible so you have an organized work area.
Something way better than clothes will be drying on these lines!
If you are truly challenged in terms of the space you can dedicate to your garden and can only have one room, you will likely want to opt for autoflowering seeds. These will be described in the grow journal below. They are perhaps the best strategy for a daily grow in a truly tiny garden.
Once the space is selected, ensure that you clean the area thoroughly. Avoid the temptation to skip this important step. You want an environment that is as sterile as possible. Sweep and vacuum the area. Remove any dust or cobwebs. Clean all surfaces with vinegar or a diluted bleach solution. Your grow room can be compromised by pests before you even start growing if you neglect a good cleaning. This is something you will want to commit to from time to time in any case. I generally clean my rooms at the end of each grow cycle to stay on top of any problems developing. It might seem tedious, but this is far less work than getting rid of an infestation in the middle of a grow cycle!
Bungee cords are a cheap and effective way to keep polyurethane barriers secured while you work in your garden. Hang from hooks so they can be used to easily tie back tarps.
After cleaning, your grow space must be prepared by tacking up polyurethane that is white on one side and black on the other. Both rooms should be lined on all sides with this wrap. Ceilings and floors need not be wrapped (ceilings are beyond the lights and floors are too high traffic and will need frequent clean up from small spills of water, dirt and plant material). Polyurethane can be bought relatively inexpensively in rolls at a hydroponic store or even garden center. When purchasing materials, the persona of a home cook interested in cultivating their own herbs year-round is a nice, safe identity to assume to avoid arousing any suspicion.
You may have heard that silver Mylar is best for this lining your walls with, since it is highly reflective, but really, it isn’t necessary. The white polyurethane is an excellent light reflector and much sturdier. It is less prone to rip and can be wiped clean with ease, so skip the Mylar. The plastic on these rolls is thick enough that a portion cut to size can be hung as a “wall” in a grow space that has been bisected into two rooms, as mine has. In fact, using polyurethane as a barrier is highly efficient because it can easily be secured and made light-tight with Velcro bought in rolls or tabs. Also, it can easily be rolled, as one would a tarp or tent fly, and secured to the upper extent of a wall or the adjoining ceiling using bungee cords hung from hooks.
When lining your grow room, you will need a staple gun to secure the polyurethane to walls or, in the case of an unfinished space such as a basement, exposed studs. The latter is fine: finished walls are redundant after lining the grow area. One important tip you should consider: to reduce the likelihood of rips, cut up small squares of cardboard to place over the poly when stapling. By stapling through the cardboard, you will secure the plastic in a way that minimizes the chance of a rip if it is tugged or stretched. Replacing polyurethane that has been ripped mid-grow is a time consuming job that is definitely no fun.
1. Best to do this semi-frequently so that you minimize “burning”
