6. Then punch every other spacing as you would with a hollow chisel mortiser.
7. Maintain a firm grip on the punch.
8. Marking the arched shape.
Draw a line down the center of the sheet stock dividing the 22" length, and then draw parallel lines 10" on either side of the centerline. Place marks 411/16" up on both of the outside parallel lines and drive a nail into the two resulting intersections. Now place a mark 5" up on the centerline. These are the reference points for the layout of the arch. Position a thin aluminum bar (or narrow strip of wood) against the nails. Bend the aluminum until it reaches the cross mark on the centerline and trace the results.
The concave side will become a router table fence and the convex side will become the marking template for the pull itself. These parts must mate together well. After band sawing to the line, attach sticky back 60-grit sandpaper to one of the parts. Run the parts together to even out the mating surfaces. Change the sandpaper to the other part and again run the mating surfaces together. This process should produce two well mated surfaces, but absolute precision is not needed here, as long as the two parts move against one another somewhat evenly and smoothly. When done, set these two pieces aside.
Next, machine the pull to its blank overall dimensions of 7/8" x 13/8" x 145/16". Be sure to make a couple of extra parts for use in later setups. With a pencil, layout the location of the ebony bars. The holes for the bars are produced using Lee Valley square punches (or the chisel from a hollow chisel mortiser). The challenge is to form and maintain a straight line with the smaller square holes made by the tool. To aid in this, clamp a piece of scrap wood of equal thickness alongside the pull stock. Attach a piece of 1/8" material to the scrap wood, lining it up precisely with the back edge of the layout for the bars. To produce the rectangular holes, register the punch firmly against the 1/8" material and use the tool as you normally would (see Chapter 4). For the center bar, which is longer than two widths of the tool, punch the ends first, then every other spacing as you would with a hollow chisel mortiser. Be careful when punching the secondary holes; they do not take a full “bite,” and have a tendency to drift unless a firm grip on the registration is maintained.
Now the arched shape can be machined onto the face side of the blank. Mark reference points at both ends at 3/16" back from the face. Register the convex piece of sheet stock (cut out earlier) with the reference points and draw the resulting line. Turn the stock over and repeat this on the opposing edge. The idea is to remove just enough material evenly from both sides to form the arch. On a larger pull the 3/16" reference point may need to be increased in order to accommodate the full arch.
Use an edge sander to remove the material in excess of the line. For safety, only sand the trailing half of the arch. Turn the pull over, so the other side will now be the trailing half, and use the markings on the opposing edge to sand the other side to the line.
The finger pull can now be routed into the backside of the face. Start with the two short cuts on the ends. Set up a router table with a 5/8" (diameter) core box bit with a zero clearance fence. The height of the cut should be adjusted so as to leave about 5/16" of material at the top. The depth of cut should be about 11/32" (a heavy 5/16"). Use a block of wood to back the stock up, then run the two ends.
Next, the cove can be continued along the backside of the arched face. Set up the concave half of the sheet stock (cut out earlier) as a fence, about 5/16" behind the bit so it matches the cove cuts on the end of the pull.
9. Remove the excess material.
10. Routing the cove on the ends, with a backup block and a straight fence.
11. Set the router table up with the concave fence.
12. Keeping your hand well clear of the bit, start the cut with both hands and advance the stock until the featherboard has a secure hold on the work.
13. Continuing the process using push blocks.
14. Mark a ¼" radius on the corners.
15. Remove the excess material.
Add to this set up a featherboard on the out-feed side of the bit. The material will move from left to right. Lower the bit so the operation can be done in two or three incremental passes. Keeping your hand well clear of the bit, start the cut with both hands and advance the stock until the featherboard is engaged. With the stock held firmly by the featherboard, use an L-shaped push block from the rear, aided by a second push block on top to propel the stock past the bit. The final pass should match the cove height on the ends.
To round the four corners of the face, first mark them each with a ¼" radius. Use a disc sander to knock down most of the material in excess of the line. With a sanding block feather the rounded corners to a smooth transition.
16. Feather the rounded corners.
17. Round over all the corners on the faceside of the pull.
18. Clean up the chatter and burn marks.
19. Knock the sharp corner down.
20. Rotate while sanding and blending the face side with the backside.
