11
PUT ON
THE BRAKES
When it comes to setting the drag, lots of fishermen don’t have a clue. The general rule for monofilament lines is that drag setting should be about one-third of the line’s breaking strength. Say you’re fishing with 2-pound-test (5.5 kg) mono. That means you should tighten your reel’s drag until it takes 4 pounds (. kg) of force to take line from the reel. Play with a drag knob and tug on the line while guessing at the setting, but it’s far better to actually measure it. Try a simple 20-pound (9 kg) spring scale hooked to a line loop at the reel.
There are times when you need a tighter drag setting, but that applies only to
comparatively heavy tackle. Some hardcore bass anglers lock down their drags when fishing thick cover—both to get a solid hookset and to haul big fish out of the weeds. In testing different freshwater baitcasting reels by tightening the star-drag knobs as hard as possible by hand, I found that they actually don’t lock down at all. I could pull line from the reel in most cases with to 0 (3.5 to 4.5 kg) pounds of force. With lighter lines, back off the drag a bit or risk disaster. Also, be sure to set drag based not on the line strength alone, but on the weakest link between the reel and your lure or bait, such as a knot.
12
Unravel
Backlashed Line
13
Overhaul Your
Reel in 15 Minutes
Make an excellent tool for unraveling backlashes from a No. fishing hook. Using pliers, straighten the hook and flaen the barb. Then use a file to dull the point slightly. Push the eye of the hook deep into a wine cork and glue it in place. Use this cork-handled tool to pick loops of line out of the tangle until it clears.
Think of your reel like your car engine. Run it hard year after year without proper maintenance, and it won’t be long before it seizes. This quick procedure is like an oil change for your baitcaster or spinning reel. Do it before the season, and you’ll crank in fish all summer long.
STEP 1 Remove your old line (even if it’s new) and recycle it.
STEP 2 Unscrew the drag cap and remove the spool. Then take off the handle cap and unscrew the winding handle in a clockwise direction. Lay out all of the parts on a clean work space in the same order in which you dismantled them for easy reassembly.
STEP 3 Rinse the entire reel with hot water to remove any sand or grit. Once it’s completely dry,
spray a nonflammable solvent (gun solvents work well) on metal parts to remove dirty grease and oil. Let it dry, then wipe the reel with a clean cloth.
STEP 4 Put one drop of oil each in all of the holes, as well as on the shaft and any exposed bearings. Then dab threaded surfaces and gears with grease. Only apply reel-approved products. Don’t use WD-40, which leaves a hard-to-remove finish when heated. Less is best with oil and grease. Extra lubricant can slow the reel down. Reassemble it all, spool new line, and go fishing.
1
2
3
14
CHOOSE THE
RIGHT LINE
CHARACTERISTIC
NYLON
FLUOROCARBONADVANTAGE
PRICE
Low to moderate
High
Nylon is more
affordable
ABRASION RESISTANCE
Moderate to low
High
Fluorocarbon is best
in heavy cover
KNOT STRENGTH
Moderate to highModerate to high
A draw; depends
on knot type
COLD WEATHER
Becomes stiffer
Unaffected by
temperature extremes
Fluorocarbon is a
good ice-fishing line
DENSITY
Close to that of water
About 60% denser than
nylon; sinks readily
Nylon can be made to
float or sink in fishing
Absorbs water
and weakens slightly
Does not absorb water
Fluorocarbon is
stronger when wet
WATER ABSORPTION
LONGEVITYDeteriorates in UV light
(sunlight)
Not affected by UV
Fluorocarbon lasts
longer
VS
16
Tie a
Palomar Knot
15
Lead
the Way
In most circumstances, clear fluorocarbon line is less visible to fish than nylon monofilament of the same size. (It is not completely invisible underwater despite what you might have heard.) If you’re after leader-shy fish such as winter steelhead
