itself. In many cases hair loss and breakage are a result of alopecia, which is a genetic problem. Dr. Olsen does acknowledge that chemical relaxers could aggravate these alopecia conditions and suggest that we either stop using the relaxer altogether, educate ourselves on proper relaxer applications or demand that superior relaxer products be put on the market.
Dr. Sperling, specialist in ethnic hair and disorders, dispels the theory that chemical relaxers cause scalp disorders such as Follicle Degeneration Syndrome CFDS). He points out that FDS starts in the hair sheath and works its way outward, and is therefore a genetic issue. He has numerous patients who experience FDS regardless of whether they use chemical relaxers. Dr. Sperling conducts seminars for other dermatologists. His articles are featured regularly in the National Institute of Health (NIH) publication and in dermatologist newsletters.
RELAXING METHODS
There are four practical methods that are used when chemically relaxing the hair:
1. Full Relaxer
When a chemical relaxer is applied to natural or virgin hair for the first time, it is referred to as a full relaxer. Your hair should be thoroughly examined beforehand. If it is damaged or weak because of excessive braiding, weaving or heat application, the hair is not ready to be relaxed and should be treated instead with protein and moisturizing conditioners. Once the hair has regained its strength and moisture content, then you may consider the relaxer. A trained hair care professional can advise you properly.
2. Retouch
About six to eight weeks after using a relaxer, new hair growth will emerge. The point at which the new growth meets the previously relaxed hair is referred to as the demarcation line and is extremely sensitive to tension, heat and chemical application. The purpose of relaxing or retouching the new hair growth is to smooth out the demarcation line and balance the opposing hair textures. This process relieves the tension from the hair and prevents potential breakage. Bear in mind that during the retouching process, the chemical relaxer should be applied to the new growth only.
Some practitioners (so-called professionals) believe that it's okay to pull the relaxer to the end of the hair during each touch up application. This is referred to as overlapping, and is not only unnecessary, but if applied excessively, leads to overprocessing, which damages the hair. Some cosmetologists try to justify overlapping by claiming that relaxed hair eventually reverts to its natural wavy state. A sodium hydroxide relaxer permanently straightens the hair. It will not revert. If you have always been using a no-lye product, some reverting could occur. If so, a corrective relaxer may need to be applied by a trained, professional cosmetologist.
3. Texturizing Relaxer
Texturizing is a simple procedure in which the relaxer is combed through the hair with a wide-tooth comb then left on the hair for five minutes or less. This process is designed to simply soften the texture by elongating the hair's natural curl or wave pattern.
4. Off-the-Scalp Application
Off-the-scalp application is an excellent alternative to no-lye relaxers because the lye relaxer does not come in contact with the scalp at all.
Off-the-scalp application involves applying the relaxer one and a half inches away from the scalp, as opposed to three-fourths of an inch away as in a regular full relaxer application. This minimizes the chances of the relaxer touching the scalp, relieving concerns about burning and irritation. The only time the relaxer touches the scalp or skin during this technique is during the end of the process when you are smoothing the relaxer around the outer parameter of the hairline. This method is highly recommended for children.
THE RELAXER APPLICATION
Chemical hair relaxing is a very skillful procedure and should be performed by a trained, professional cosmetologist. If you choose not to seek professional assistance, then you should fully understand the proper procedures involved in the relaxing process.
Again, I am not encouraging you to apply your own relaxer, but I am supplying this information for those sisters who insist on relaxing their hair at home and for those consumers who wish to empower themselves with the information needed to protect the health of their hair. Let's get started:
Step One: Preparing for the Relaxer
There are some very basic precautions necessary before applying a relaxer. First, thoroughly examine the scalp and hair. If the scalp is suffering from minor abrasions or infections, or if the hair is limp, brittle and dry because of excessive bleaching, frosting, tipping or permanent color usage, do not relax the hair at this time (see the manufacturer's instructions on the container). I recommend strengthening the hair and healing the scalp before applying the relaxer.
After you have thoroughly examined the hair and scalp, comb the hair free of tangles. If you have oil, grease or gel buildup, then shampoo and condition the hair. Wait at least two to three days before applying the relaxer. Never apply a relaxer the same day you shampoo and condition it.
Step two: Gathering Your Tools
There are a couple of tools that you will need to complete your relaxer application. I suggest a tint-colored brush rather than a comb because it allows you to apply the relaxer more precisely and expeditiously. Some practitioners elect to use the comb. I suggest using the tool that allows you to work most effectively. Following is a list of tools you will need to gather before starting your relaxing process:
1.Clean towels.
2.Protective gloves.
3.Clean combs.
4.Tint-color brush.
5.Timer.
6.Base, there are two types: menthol, which has a cool soothing effect, or any mineral oil and petroleum-based product.
Step Three: Analyzing the Hair Texture
Analyzing the hair texture and choosing the correct relaxer strength is a critical step. I recommend that you conduct a strand test to determine the hair's elasticity and moisture content. Take several strands of hair and hold them straight up from the head. Run your fingers down the hair strand, starting from the end of the strand and working your way toward the scalp. If the hair texture feels smooth, this means it has elasticity and will not readily accept moisture. In this case, the hair will be more resistant to the chemical relaxer, so you may want to choose a regular to super strength. If the hair strand feels rough, this means it is very porous, has little elasticity and will readily accept moisture. In this case, you may want to choose a milder strength relaxer (refer to the maintenance diagram for details).
A general guideline is used to assess the overall texture of the hair. If you have very soft, thin or delicate hair, select a mild relaxer. If you have normal to resistant hair, select a regular relaxer. If you have excessively curly and resistant hair then select a super relaxer.
Step Four: Basing the Scalp
Basing the scalp protects it from the caustic reaction of the chemical application. Distribute the emollient evenly onto the scalp. Try to keep the base off the roots of the hair because it may retard the chemical relaxing process. You may also apply some of the base to the ends of the hair to protect it from overprocessing.
Step Five: Applying the Relaxer
