Why Are Black Women Losing Their Hair. Barry Fletcher

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With Your Hair

      By Barry L. Fletcher

      Healthy hair begins with how we view it.

      In our fashion-conscious society, it seems we are inclined to do almost anything to our hair to stay current with today's trends. Hot curling, waving, weaving, perming and teasing are just a few of the stressful regimens that we subject our hair to on a daily basis.

      But hair is serious business and requires attention and care. And while "looking good" is a legitimate concern, a bigger one should be to truly understand our hair and its needs so it can remain healthy and vibrant.

      Proper hair care really begins with how we view our hair. Historically, African Americans have been conditioned to view our hair as a problem, as a chore that we don't want to tackle. Our hair is a gift from" Mother Nature," not a curse. It has been placed on our heads to protect our brain from the elements, and its thick, wool-like texture ensures that we're well-protected.

      African Americans have some of the most versatile hair in the world. We have the option of styling it straight, wavy, curly, naturally curly, matted, twisted or locked. This versatility and creative range are among the many factors that make us beautiful and unique. Ironically, though, this gift of versatility has become the catalyst of many black women's hair problems. Because they have so many options, black women tend to experiment more with hair products and styles, often wearing ones that don't complement their hair texture.

      For many young black women, having their hair relaxed for the first time is like moving from Africa to Europe in 30 minutes. The trip is a little hot and uncomfortable, but many think the environment is more conducive for maintaining their hair. After that first relaxer, some sisters are so overwhelmed with the ease in which they can manage their hair that they never try anything else-and worse, they ignore the signals when it's time for a change. When we venture out and find something new or different that works for us, we may adopt it as part of our routine, but when that "new thing" no longer works, we usually return home and back to the basics. The same is true with our hair. In that instance, going home means returning to our hair's natural state.

      On the other hand, natural styles may not necessarily be the best styling decision either. I have seen people allow their hair to lock and find that it became too dry. I will never forget one day I was riding the train to New York. Before I sat down I noticed there was something in the seat. It looked like a little hairy bud or caterpillar. I couldn't make out what the devil it was, and I didn't want to sit beside it until I was sure it wasn't moving. Finally I realized it was an abandoned, dried-out dreadlock. You see, wearing a natural style doesn't end all your hair problems. Locks, like relaxers, are not for everyone. Your hair needs nourishment and moisture no matter what. Without maintaining that moisture balance, locks could fall off like branches on Charlie Brown's Christmas tree.

      When I speak at black colleges, some students confess that they feel pressured to wear natural hair styles. They actually fear that if they went to a straighter, more European style they would be deemed a sellout. The only parameter that should determine your choice of style is what your hair responds to positively. For example, when I wore my hair in a natural afro, I noticed excessive shedding while picking it out. But when I texturized my hair, I didn't experience shedding. This is because the chemical relaxer softens the hair and allows the cuticles to open and close more readily. This flexibility allows the hair to absorb more moisture, conditioning treatments and proteins. When our hair is in its natural curly state, the products do not penetrate as easily. When applied, most conditioners remain on top of the hair as opposed to penetrating the hair shaft, resulting in dry hair and breakage. Chemically altered hair accepts moisture more readily, and moisture helps prevent hair breakage. This is why hair growth appears to increase among those clients who wear curly perms.

      I have noticed that some natural hairstyles can make a person look older or more mature. In other instances, relaxed hairstyles can look too limp and detract from a person's overall youthful appearance. So there is a lot that one must consider when choosing hair textures, shapes and styles. It requires that we take the responsibility to understand our hair's individual needs and use that as a basis to decide our styling preferences.

      

      STRUCTURE

      To better understand the underlying causes of damaged hair, we must familiarize ourselves with our hair's structure.

      Contrary to popular belief, hair is a living organism, and like skin, teeth and nails, the hair extracts its nourishment from the blood stream. This is why diet plays such an important role in the maintenance of healthy hair. Each hair strand is made up of three principal components. The first is the cuticle or outer-most layer. It acts as a protective shield to the hair shaft and is coated with a natural lubricant called sebum, which gives hair its natural sheen. When hair appears dull and dry, this means the sebum has been stripped from the hair shaft. This is usually the result of over-processing, excessive heat or improper product usage.

      The second layer of the hair strand is the cortex. The cortex determines the color, strength, elasticity and texture of the hair and accounts for 75 to 90 percent of the hair's bulk. If the cortex is damaged, the hair will appear fragile and weak and will break easily when touched. Deep conditioning and regular treatments are essential to maintaining and strengthening the cortex.

      The third and final innermost layer of the hair is the medulla, also referred to as the marrow of the hair shaft. The medulla is frequently broken or entirely absent from the hair shaft. It is suspected that poor health and the use of certain drugs have a direct bearing on its absence or damaged condition. The exact function of the medulla remains a mystery. The hair does not appear to suffer from its absence.

      HAIR BREAKAGE, LOSS AND THINNING

      "Madam C. J. Walker was a pioneer in the black hair care industry whose battle with alopecia inspired her to concoct a remedy to promote black hair growth. However, despite her efforts, more and more people of color are suffering from hair loss, and modern times demand different solutions."

      According to Dr. Wanda Nelson, president of the National Beauty Culturist's League, "one of the major reasons for hair loss among women of color is that they rely too heavily on nonprofessionals to produce professional results as it relates to their hair."

      There are many factors that come into play when discussing hair thinning, breakage and loss. Some factors are external, such as the weather, hair service and daily home hair care regimes. Other factors are internal and include: stress; medication; poor dieting; fluctuation in hormone levels from birth control pills; iron deficiency; pregnancy; menopause; hormone treatments; thyroid problems, and poor blood circulation. Whether external or internal, it's to our benefit to be aware of these factors and the role they play in determining the health of our hair.

      There is a distinct

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