Frommer's Portugal. Paul Ames

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das Portas do Sol

      This is one of the best vistas in Lisbon, busy with street performers. Look beyond the statue of St. Vincent toward the rooftops and river (p. 101).

      Turn west along Rua de Santiago and Largo dos Lóis until you reach Costa da Castelo.

      6Chapitô

      You deserve a break. A circus school may not seem like the most relaxing place, but it has an excellent restaurant with lovely views over the city and a shady patio cafe. 21/888-01-54.

      Walking Tour 2 Baixa, the Center & the Chiado

Start:Praça do Comércio.
Finish:Elevador de Santa Justa.
Time:3 hours.
Best Times:Any sunny day except Sunday.
Worst Times:Monday to Saturday from 7:30 to 9am and 5 to 7pm; Sunday, when shops are closed.

      This tours also starts in:

      1Praça do Comércio

      One of Europe’s most beautiful squares, looking out over Tagus, it was the nerve center of Portugal’s maritime empire. The royal palace that stood here was destroyed by the 1755 earthquake. In its place are sturdy white towers bookending rows of pastel-painted government ministries. Long arcades cover cafes and restaurants. To the east, the Lisbon Story Centre (www.lisboastorycentre.pt) gives an interactive explanation of the city’s history, complete with mock quake. A horseback statue of King José I (1714–77) dominates the center of the plaza.

      Head north along:

      Walking Tour: Baixa to Intendente

      2Rua Augusta

      Facing the river is a triumphal arch, the Arco da Rua Augusta, which you can climb for 2.50€ to enjoy 360-degree views over the Baixa. Through the arch is Rua Augusta, a bustling pedestrianized thoroughfare in the heart of the grid-plan district. Sadly, tourist traps have replaced many of the authentic old stores and cafes, but some gems survive, like Casa Pereira da Conceição, selling coffee and fans; fabrics store Londres Salão; and 1913 wine store and grocer Casa Macário.

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