I love marmalade but, for various reasons
(indolence for one), never make it. I use Seville oranges
elsewhere. I use the juice and zest with olive oil and
marjoram as a dressing for fish. I ask my pastry cook to
make a Seville orange pudding, served with custard, as a
fortification and comfort in this filthy weather. And now
I have made this tart. It is sweet and sharp and if you can
summon up the resolve to make it very soon, you will not
be disappointed. And I am going to put some more Seville
oranges in the freezer.
41
January
SEVILLE ORANGE TART
The pastry can be made well in advance.
Serves up to eight.
FOR THE PASTRY
120g (41⁄4oz) unsalted butter
100g (3½oz) golden caster
sugar
2 egg yolks
140g (5oz) plain flour, sifted,
plus extra for dusting
a pinch of salt
1 egg
1 tablespoon milk
FOR THE FILLING
3 Seville oranges
4 eggs, plus 1 yolk
150g (5½oz) caster sugar
150ml (5fl oz) double cream
icing sugar, for dusting
For the pastry, cream the butter and sugar together until
light and aerated (best done with an electric mixer). Add
the egg yolks one by one, and beat until well amalgamated.
Add the sifted flour and salt and very gently knead into a
dough without overworking. Shape into a slightly flattened
ball, wrap in clingfilm and refrigerate for 1 hour.
Roll out the pastry on a lightly floured surface to a disc
of at least 27cm (103⁄4in) diameter, then carefully ease it
into a 24cm (91⁄2in) tart tin, making sure it fits into the
corners and hangs over the edge all the way round. Do not
cut off this overhang, but use any surplus to make certain
any holes are repaired. Refrigerate the case for 30 minutes.
Preheat the oven to 180°C (350°F, Gas Mark 4). Line the
tart case with greaseproof paper or foil and dried or baking
beans, and bake for 25 minutes. Remove the beans and
paper and return to the oven for 5 minutes.
Beat the egg and milk together and brush inside the
tart case the minute it comes out of the oven. Return the
case to the oven for 3–4 minutes. Allow to cool a little.
For the filling, very finely grate the zest of the oranges
into a bowl, then strain over the well-squeezed juice. Whisk
the eggs, the extra yolk and the sugar together in a stand
mixer or with hand-held electric beaters until the sugar
has dissolved and the mix is smooth. Pour in the cream
and mix well before stirring in the juice and zest.
Turn the oven down to 150°C (300°F, Gas Mark 2). Place
the tart tin on the middle shelf, one-third of the way out of
the oven. Stir the filling if you have let it rest, then carefully
pour it into the case and slide it very carefully into the
oven. It will take about 40 minutes to cook. The surface
should not colour: if it threatens to do so, cover it with foil.
To test, give the tin a gentle nudge back and forth – there
should be no sign of liquid movement beneath the surface
of the tart.
Allow the tart to cool a little before cutting off the
overhang with a serrated knife and gently lifting it off.
Transfer the tart to a plate once it is completely cool, then
refrigerate. Dust the tart with a sprinkling of icing sugar
and serve chilled. It needs no further accompaniment.
42
February
Less is less. It is not always fewer. I once began a
sentence in conversation with Jeremy Paxman with
the words ‘Less people…’ FEWER! The grand inquisitor
exploded and I was cowed. For days, nay months,
afterwards I worried about my grammar. Why not less?
Why is it that everyone on the BBC uses the word
fewer even when it is inappropriate? From which
heavenly body did this commandment emanate?
In the true esprit de l’escalier – a French expression that
hints at the sense of loss one feels when one remembers
the correct riposte too late – I badgered him on our next
meeting. ‘Do you think more people are in favour of
Brexit now, Jeremy?’ Oh definitely, he replied.
