2/3 topsoil and 1/3 compost. If you are planting plants that like dry conditions, make sure to add very small gravel into the soil for efficient drainage. Rake it smooth.
6. Place the rocks
Now you are ready to “plant” your rocks. I like to use that term because, in a sense, that is what you do in a rock garden. I first added a few flat rocks as steps in the path that went uphill. I then set the larger rocks, in a naturalistic fashion, into the hillside. To do this, you position the rocks the way you like them, then dig them in, backfilling behind the rock with good soil. I often fill behind a rock to set it in a more upright stance, or I may dig it in deeper to make it appear as if it juts out of the earth. See Seven Tips for Placing Rocks in a Rock Garden, on page 45, for advice on setting rocks in the garden.
In order to set rocks, you must be able to maneuver them around. To do this you should have a crowbar, a large digging bar, shovels, strong arms and a strong back. I heartily recommend that you have help for this part of the endeavor! You do not want to put your back out or give yourself a hernia.
Here is the rock garden when it was finished. I planted low growing, flowering perennials for eye-catching summertime color. I also used rocks as steps in the path. Many of the plants are spreaders and need to be pruned often to reveal the rocks. It features sedum, campanula, dianthus and perennial geranium and others. In the background is a dark green backdrop of dense yew (Taxus × media densiformis) and the yellow Missouri evening primrose (Oenothera missourensis).
7. Place and plant the plants
Now comes the fun part – planting up the rock garden. I placed the plants that we had set aside. I spread the plants around the garden, making sure to alter the foliage types and color to create contrast.
Once the plants are in the locations you like, dig the holes and do not plant too deep. I intentionally placed them close together to minimize weeding. Other people plant more sparingly to enjoy each plant individually. It is your choice. Do not use plants that spread too aggressively because the rocks in this garden should be as much of the show as the plants. For specific rock garden plant suggestions, see Chapter 8, Plants and Stone.
8. Mulch, water and admire
Water in the plants thoroughly. Then cover the surface with a 1" layer of very fine organic mulch and water again. You can also use a thin layer of fine gravel as a covering in a rock garden; this is especially appropriate for a “dry garden” that contains a majority of Mediterranean plants. Water the plants well until established, especially during spells of dry weather.
Rock Placement Tips from Ancient Japan
The 11th century Japanese garden manual Sakuteiki says to listen to “the request” of the rocks. They will tell you how best to place them. Shunmyo Masuno, a Japanese Zen Buddhist priest and contemporary garden designer, agrees and says one must “converse” with the stone, waiting “until it seems to speak and say where it wants to be put.” So don’t feel silly if you think the rock is unhappy in a certain position – move it!
Additionally, the Sakuteiki further explains how to set rocks: “Make sure that all the stones, right down to the front of the arrangement, are placed with their best sides showing. If a stone has an ugly-looking top you should place it so as to give prominence to its side. Even if this means it has to lean at a considerable angle, no one will notice. There should always be more horizontal than vertical stones. If there are “running away” stones there must be “chasing” stones. If there are “leaning” stones, there must be “supporting” stones.”
Moving Large Rocks
Give me a lever and I can move the world
~ Archimedes
Do not try to move large rocks simply with brute strength! Bending at the waist and heaving up a rock is an invitation to a wrenched back or worse. To maneuver a rock, you can move it, roll it, slide it or flip it over end to end. And, of course, you can use a rock sled, hand truck, ramp or lever.
Move it
A good wheelbarrow is handy, but better still is a two-wheeled hand truck or dolly, because they are lower to the ground and more stable. There are also versatile work carts on the market that come with straps to carry large rocks. These require less lifting power. Use a hand truck with large pneumatic tires to better transport heavy loads, such as large flagstones or rocks, across lawns and uneven or rough ground.
Roll it
To move large rocks into place, I have used hefty PVC pipes as rollers. This moving technique works best on flat ground and you will need at least one helper to shift the pipes while you roll the rock forward. Use at least three pieces of 4"-diameter “Schedule 40” PVC pipe. Lift the front of the stone and place two pipes underneath so that the stone rests on the pipes. Set a third pipe in front of the stone so that you can roll the stone forward it. Then when the rear pipe comes free you quickly grab it and place it in front of the rock and repeat.
You can use a tree cart, or tree dolly, to move large rocks around. These can be rented at a local rental center.
Lift it
If you need to lift a heavy stone, keep the strain to a minimum. Use a commercial grade product such as the “Potlifter” that is designed for this task. It has lifting loops and lets you insert carrying poles. By grabbing the pole handles, between two to four people can lift rocks weighing up to 350 pounds and up to 34" in diameter.
By inserting carrying poles within the open handles, several people can lift rocks weighing up to 350 pounds. Having the right tool helps in these situations.
The product known as a PotLifter™ lets two people grab and twist the handles, as shown, to carry large rocks. Don’t forget to wear work gloves!
Wear Gloves When Working with Stones
If you carry stones or handle any big outdoor job, it is important to wear protective gloves to guard against punctures, cuts and skin abrasion as well as protection against cold and wet conditions. Look for well-fitting gloves that have a wrist closure. This provides an extra-close fit that prevents things from getting inside the glove. Dorian Winslow, president and owner of Womanswork, manufacturer of gardening gloves and much more, says the most important things to look for in a work glove, besides good fit, are good grip and materials that offer good resistance to abrasion. This applies both to leather or non leather gloves with features such as doubly reinforced fingertips and padded palms.
Seven Tips for Placing Rocks in a Rock Garden
You may think that placing rocks in a slope or on a flat plain is no big deal, but in fact, there are several considerations that go into making an
