a GPS unit attaches to or is embedded in your dog's buckle collar and communicates with you via a smartphone, computer, or handheld device. The downside is that these units use GPS communication, so when GPS is not available, they don't work. Some services also require a monthly or yearly fee, which is a small price to pay for the safe return of a much-loved pet.
When a puppy enters your home, be ready for anything…and be ten giant steps ahead of your miniature new chum.
Toys and Treats
Puppies like and need to chew—especially during the teething phase, when their baby teeth erupt and fall out. Chewing makes their gums feel better, but puppies don't understand that they shouldn't chew on your purse, shoes, or chairs. Few owners survive puppyhood without losing a pair of slippers, a potted plant, or even a table leg. Don't despair, though—you can seriously curb the destruction by providing your puppy with plenty of appropriate toys designed for chewing. Chew toys also provide mental stimulation, which is equally important for young dogs.A seemingly endless selection of toys is available. Google “dog toys” and you'll get about millions of hits. Pet-supply stores, feed stores, and grocery stores sell dog toys and treats in unique sizes and shapes from balls to perpetually bouncy fetch toys. Finding toys isn't difficult, but finding safe, healthy, nontoxic toys and treats that are appropriate for your dog’s size, breed, and chewing power takes a bit of effort. Some brachycephalic breeds—because of their undershot bite—cannot chew very efficiently and may choke more easily than other breeds. The chew toys you choose for a Bichon Frise will differ from what you choose for an Australian Cattle Dog or Rottweiler. Plus, some puppies are pickier than others and only like certain toys and treats.
Some toys are virtually indestructible and designed for the most tenacious chewers. They exercise a puppy’s teeth and gums, promoting oral health while relieving the need to chew. Some of these toys are hollow and specially designed for hiding treats, such as cheese or peanut butter, inside.
Be careful with vinyl or plush toys that contain squeakers or noisemakers. Puppies love them, and the noisier the better. However, some puppies are four-legged destroying machines and will rip right through the material in a nanosecond and even swallow the squeakers, which could become lodged in their throats. No one wants an emergency trip to the vet!
While not designed for long-term chewing, a variety of edible chews for dogs now provide nutritional enhancement or breath fresheners. Even if they don't last too long, these chews may make enjoyable treats for your puppy. Most tough breeds, such as large working breeds and terriers, will get one or two chomps out of them before breaking them into bits that can be eaten. Again, always be on the lookout for small pieces that your puppy could choke on.
Rawhide chews are an alternative to nylon chews—provided your puppy chews them rather than swallowing them whole. Stick with nonbleached chews, which won't stain your carpet, and beware of rawhide chews imported from other countries.
Bully sticks are sold under various names, including beef tendons, puzzles, pizzle sticks, and steer stix. Giving them cute names doesn't hide what they are: 100-percent dehydrated bull penises. They satisfy a puppy's need to chew, and most dogs love them, but not everyone is on the bully-stick bandwagon. Many cite the possibility of Escherichia coli (E. coli) contamination. Therefore, look for bully sticks that are from American free-range bulls fed a healthy grass diet.
Elk antlers are becoming increasingly popular. Dogs seem to love them, but some owners and veterinarians caution that tenacious chewing on them may result in broken teeth.
Rope toys and tugs are often made of 100-percent cotton and frequently are flavored to make them more attractive to dogs. Some rope tuggies do double duty because they have plaque-fighting fluoride floss woven into the rope to deep-clean your puppy’s teeth and gums. Be careful that your puppy cannot shred the cotton ropes, which may be a potential choking hazard. Nylon tuggies are a haven for bacteria, so be sure to launder them regularly.
Welcome Home!
It seems like you have been waiting forever, but the day for picking up your puppy has finally arrived. It's an exciting time for you and your family, but it may be a scary, uncertain, and stressful time for your puppy. Remember, he is leaving the security of his mom and littermates and the only home he has known. Making the trip home and his first experience with his new family a positive and happy one will go a long way in helping reduce problems later on.
Ideally, you will want to pick up your puppy on a day when you’re not working so you’re not rushed. If possible, consider taking a few days off from work so you can be with your puppy to help him transition and to get started on the right foot.
On the ride home, your puppy should ride in a crate, not on someone's lap or loose in the car—and never in the back of an open pickup truck. These are accidents waiting to happen! A traumatic first car ride can make it more difficult to “"car-train"” your puppy later.
Many breeders crate-train their puppies and give them short car rides to precondition them for the trips to their new home. Most breeders also avoid feeding puppies right before they head to their new homes to avoid carsickness.
Line the crate with a few towels in case the puppy has an accident. Your puppy may whine or cry because he is nervous or scared. Avoid yelling at him or telling him to be quiet. He won't understand, and you are likely to exacerbate the situation. Instead, be comforting and have a passenger come along who can sit near the crate or put his or her hand close to the crate.
Once home, allow your puppy plenty of time to freely explore his new yard and, if necessary, potty. If your yard is not fenced, keep him on a leash or long line at all times. Don’t be surprised if he’s nervous and just sits or lies in one spot. Give him plenty of time to explore at a pace comfortable for him.
Allow him to do his business, and calmly praise him when he’s in the process of pottying. Too much praise may frighten him or cause him to forget what he is doing. When he’s finished exploring, and he’s relieved himself, take him indoors. Have baby gates or an ex-pen in place to confine him to a certain room or area. Corralling him wherever the family tends to congregate will keep him from wandering around the house, where he can inadvertently learn bad habits and get himself into trouble by peeing or chewing. Remember that most puppies have tons of energy, but they tire easily and need plenty of quiet time to recuperate from the excitement of being a puppy. Allow your puppy plenty of time to rest in his bed, crate, or ex-pen when he needs to escape the domestic hustle and bustle. Everyone—especially children—should understand that the puppy needs to be left alone while he is sleeping. After all, no one wants a grumpy puppy!
Get on your puppy’s level to make his acquaintance. Puppy love begins with ticklish kisses.
Children and the Pup
Children and puppies tend to go together, but too much “togetherness” all at one time can be overwhelming. Parents are the key figures when it comes to teaching children how to interact safely with a puppy, and vice versa. By setting a few ground rules, you can help ensure that your children and puppy develop a positive long-term friendship.
Young children are often boisterous, excitable, and inconsistent with their behaviors. Most puppies—especially herding breeds—are excited by movement and like to chase and nip the legs of fleeing children. This is natural doggy behavior. However, reinforcing these behaviors means you will end up with an adult dog who sees no harm in chasing, jumping up, and nipping. Also, children have short attention spans and easily lose their patience with a puppy—especially if that puppy
