Frommer’s EasyGuide to Texas Hill Country. Edie Jarolim

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Park, 2385 Bandera Hwy. (www.kerrvilletx.gov/318/Kerrville-Schreiner-Park; 830/257-7300), a 500-acre green space boasting 7 miles of hiking trails, swimming and boating on the Guadalupe River, campgrounds, and a variety of cabins for rent.

      Military buffs and souvenir-seekers might want to drive 12 miles south of Kerrville on scenic Hwy. 173 to see Camp Verde, the former headquarters (1856–69) of the short-lived U.S. Army camel cavalry. The quixotic attempt to introduce “ships of the desert” into dry Southwest terrain never took off, due to widespread ignorance of the animals’ habits; the onset of the Civil War dealt the program a final blow. There’s little left of the fort itself, but the Camp Verde General Store (www.campverdegeneralstore.com; 830/634-7722), with its camel statue out front, is a popular tourist stop. Established in 1857 to serve the soldiers stationed nearby, the store has been revamped several times; the most recent overhaul scrapped most of the wonderfully tacky camel-related tchotchkes in favor of more tasteful gifts, and added a cheerful casual restaurant serving hearty sandwiches and sides; it’s open from 11am to 3pm.

      Where to Eat in Kerrville

      The setting—a beautifully restored 1915 depot with a lovely patio out back—is not the only thing outstanding about Rails , 615 Schreiner (www.railscafe.com; 830/257-3877), which serves some of the best food in the Hill Country. Everything, from the creative salads and Italian panini sandwiches to a small selection of hearty entrees, is made with fresh ingredients, many bought locally. The restaurant is open for lunch and dinner Monday through Saturday, and prices are moderate.

      The name is Italian, but the menu at Francisco’s, 201 Earl Garrett St. (www.franciscos-restaurant.com; 830/257-2995), is eclectic, with lots of nods towards Mexico. It’s housed in the 1890s Weston building. A downtown business crowd comes for soup and salad combos at lunchtime; many return on weekend evenings for such mix-it-up entrees as cilantro lime shrimp or teriyaki chipotle chicken. Francisco’s is open for lunch Monday through Saturday, dinner Thursday through Saturday. Prices range from moderate to expensive.

      bats Along a Back Road to Fredericksburg

      It sounds like something out of a horror flick: millions of bats streaming out of an abandoned tunnel on a Texas back road. But this phenomenon, which you can view under the supervision of the Texas Parks and Wildlife Department, is fascinating—and not at all scary. From Comfort, take Hwy. 473 N. for 5 miles. When the road winds to the right toward Sisterdale, keep going straight on Old Hwy. 9. After another 8 or 9 miles, you’ll spot a parking lot and a mound of large rocks on top of a hill. During the season (May–Oct), around dusk you can watch as many as three million Mexican free-tailed bats set off on a food foray. There’s no charge to witness the phenomenon from the Upper Viewing Area, near the parking lot; it’s open daily. If you want a closer view and an educational presentation lasting about 30 minutes to an hour, come to the Lower Viewing Area, open from Thursday through Sunday ($5 per person ages 4 and up, cash or check only). Children younger than 4 are not permitted in the Lower Viewing Area. There are 70 seats, filled on a first-come, first-served basis. Contact the Old Tunnel Wildlife Management Area (www.tpwd.texas.gov/state-parks/old-tunnel/bat-viewing; 866/978-2287 [recorded information]) to find out when its occupants are likely to flee the bat cave.

Fredericksburg

      25 miles NE of Kerrville; 23 miles N of Comfort; 70 miles NW of San Antonio

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