THE • FLAVOR •
LOCATED IN DODGE AND FOND DU LAC COUNTIES, Horicon Marsh is a shallow, peat-filled lake bed that was created some 12,000 years ago after a glacial lobe from Green Bay receded and filled in the basin it had earlier scoured. Today, at 33,000 acres total, Horicon is the largest freshwater cattail marsh in the United States. The northern two-thirds comprise a US National Wildlife Refuge and are off-limits to visitors (that is, the bipedal, wingless type). The southern third is overseen by the Wisconsin Department of Natural Resources and is open to the public. It’s here where our trip begins.
Put in at the official boat launch off of Greenhead Road, where there’s plenty of room for parking, easy access to the water, and even a bathroom. At this point, you will be on the East Branch of the Rock River. You may wish first to paddle to the opposite shore to the Greenhead Impoundment, get out, and hike up the berm to take in an impressive view of the marsh. Once you’re on the water, this perspective of the complex landscape shrinks, and it’s easy to forget just how vast it is.
Back on the water, you’ll begin seeing the official canoe-trail signs (denoted by an orange square on a green post), but take these with a grain of salt; they’re not terribly instructive, for they seem to be posted only in obvious segments when you already know where you are, not when facing a dilemma of which channel to take. The river will bend here and there, but mostly in broad strokes.
Horicon Marsh is full of wide-open spaces.
Only half a mile or so from the put-in, you’ll be facing east for a moment (a rarity on this trip) and will see the Niagara Escarpment, a huge layer of raised rock, locally known as “The Ledge,” that arches from northwest of Chicago through Door County and Lakes Michigan and Huron into southern Ontario, and then eventually reaches out to form the rock formations (and plunge) at Niagara Falls. (You can camp in the county park connected with The Ledge.)
Soon, the turns will diminish and yield to long straightaways, but side channels appear. Together with innumerable ditches, these side channels provide for opportunities of welcome intimacy. This trip mainly goes west then due south, for the sake of simplicity. But there are several diversions north, far west, and even southeast, all off of the main channel. If and how many of these side channels you choose to explore is entirely up to your own curiosity and the time you have to be on the water. They’re certainly fun and interesting, and your chances of rousting some hidden wildlife are quite good. If you do choose to veer off the main channel, I recommend having a map of the marsh with you. It’s not likely that you’d get lost without one, but the sheer size of the marsh can be disorienting. Think of it like straying off the trail when hiking in the woods.
After you find yourself on the first long straightaway, begin looking to your left. Soon you’ll see Fourmile Island, a protected state natural area and one of the largest heron rookeries in the Midwest. It’s off-limits from April to September, so you may have to appreciate it through your binoculars. It’s one of many islands in the complex of the marsh (with names like Apple, Cotton, Gardener, Strawberry, and Steamboat). After Fourmile, the main channel will bend to the right and then left before opening out to a wide expanse. Here, as elsewhere, there are many nooks and crannies by way of side channels and ditches you can explore. Otherwise, follow the main channel south. Off in the faraway distance you’ll see the Horicon water tower and some grain elevators, a seeming mirage of buildings in the midst of this wildlife refuge.
Once you paddle through a narrow cattail corridor, the marsh will open out to its widest. If you wish to explore the eastern side of the marsh, you would want to turn left and paddle half a mile. Or if you wish to explore the northern backwaters, you’d make a 180 to your right. But if you prefer to take the most direct route, then continue paddling straight south, keeping closer to the western shore (on your right). After some wide water, you’ll discern a narrow channel on your right that looks like a long, straight corridor into town. Here, it feels like you’re on a river again, with banks on each side beneath attractive tree canopy. Off to your right will be Onemile Island, the last notable landmark in the marsh.
As you approach town, you’ll paddle past a huge John Deere factory on the left, followed by an attractive bridge at Lake Street. The river will make a sharp bend to the left at a city park, after which you’ll pass under the bridge at WI 33. Immediately after a right-hand bend, you’ll come upon the concrete rubble of the boat launch and take-out at Legion Auxiliary Park, on the right.
• THE • FUDGE •
ADDITIONAL TRIPS If you want to add more river miles onto this trip, put in below the dam in the town of Kekoskee, off Valley Street, 4 miles upstream of Greenhead Road. It’s a pleasant stretch of the Rock River’s east branch, where there’s actual current and even some woodsy segments before the huge sprawl of the marsh. Alternatively, there’s a pleasant trip on the south branch of the Rock River (which, confusingly, is northwest of the marsh) through the small city of Waupun. It’s a narrow and riffly stream amidst a mix of woods, backyards, and farmland. Put in at Waupun Park and take out at the wayside park off WI 49 for a 7-mile trip.
The marsh is an amazing place for bird-watching.
CAMPING Ledge Park (N7403 Park Road, Horicon; 920-386-3700)
RENTALS Horicon Marsh Boat Tours (305 Mill St., Horicon; 920-485-4663)
SHOUT-OUT The best way to fully appreciate the rich history and incredible vastness of the marsh is to spend at the very least an entire day here, and combine this paddling trip with a bike ride, hike, car tour, visitor-center tour, and/or camping overnight, including an exploration of the Friends of Horicon Marsh Education and Visitor Center, at N7725 WI 28 in Horicon. For more information, call 920-387-7890 or visit horiconmarsh.org.
8 Maunesha River: MARSHALL TO WATERLOO
• THE • FACTS •
Put-in/take-out Access road off Waterloo Road/Firemen’s Park in Waterloo. See “The Flavor” for an alternative put-in.
Distance/time 8.2 mi/Allow for 4 hrs
Gradient/water level 6 fpm/There is no gage for the Maunesha. For the best run of the rapids, do this early in spring or after a hard rain. In downtown Waterloo, two bridges cross the river on Madison Street/WI 19; scout the water at the bridges, and if it is high enough here to paddle without scraping, you will be fine upstream, too.
Water type Riffles, several Class I–II ledges, and 1 mile of Class I rapids
Canoe or kayak Kayak
Skill level Experienced
Time of year to paddle Early spring, after a hard rain, or anytime there’s enough water
Landscape Woods, farms, drumlin hills, marsh, urban downtown
OVERVIEW This fun and scenic trip offers considerable diversity in only 8 miles, including a scenic mill, a hometown amusement park, rustic railroad bridges, old oaks, drumlins, and several small but reputable rapids. It’s well worth the occasional tree to dodge or portage, which you will definitely encounter.
