needle. Change the needle for each new project.
With machine piecing, the first thing you need to do is work out where your 1⁄4in (0.6cm) seam allowance is. If you get this seam allowance accurate, it helps your sewing match up. Most sewing machines have a foot you can buy that has a 1⁄4in (0.6cm) guide on it, so you just need to line the fabric up with the edge of the foot when sewing.
Alternatively, if you do not have one of these, you can line up a piece of scrap fabric with the edge of the foot, sew a short line of stitches, then take the fabric out and measure the distance between the edge of the fabric and the sewn line. If it is not 1⁄4in (0.6cm), move the position of your needle by changing the width setting on your sewing machine. Unless the pattern says, there is no need to do a reverse stitch at the beginning or end of a seam. Test again, and then keep doing this until you have it right. Another idea is to use a strip of low-tack masking tape on the sewing machine. Write the correct settings in a notebook so you can get your machine set up quickly each time you want to sew.
Chain piecing
Chain piecing is where pieces of fabric are sewn together, without cutting the threads at the end of each separate piece of fabric. It is quick, and can save on thread too.
1 Line up two pieces of fabric, right sides together.
2 Place them under the presser foot, just before the needle.
3 Hold the threads to the back and sew along the seam, making sure you guide the fabric rather than pull it through the machine. There is no need to make a reverse stitch at the beginning or end of chain piecing.
4 When you get to the end of the fabric, stop sewing with the needle down. Lift the presser foot and lay the next piece of fabric to be sewn.
Lower the presser foot and carefully start sewing again. There should be a couple of stitches sewn between the fabric. When you have finished your sewing, take the line of fabric from the machine, and cut the thread in between each piece.
Tips on pressing
With machine piecing, you can either press the seams together, or press them open. There are pros and cons to each method. Pressing seams open can make the quilt lie flatter, but it can be weaker than when pressing them together. I have pressed the seams together in the projects in this book, but use the finish you like best.
The best way to press is to iron from the front to set the seam, then turn the fabric over and press the seam in place. Turn the fabric over and iron the front of the seam again, making sure the patchwork is nice and flat.
Rotary cutting
The first few projects in this book are sewn by hand, and can be made without a rotary cutter, mat and ruler. However, if you get hooked on quilting, then a set is an essential piece of kit.
If looked after, they should last a long time. The only extra item you will need to buy is a replacement blade for your rotary cutter when it starts to blunt.
Rotary cutter: These come in a few sizes, but the 45mm is the one most widely used for patchwork. There are different types, so see if you can try a few before deciding on which one to buy.
Self-healing mat: Make sure you store your mat flat as it can warp. Mats have measurements on them in inches or centimetres, but I usually only use the measurements on my acrylic ruler.
Acrylic ruler: I find the most useful ruler to use is a long, rectangular ruler measuring 24in × 61⁄2in. This is long enough to cut 44in (110cm) wide fabric folded in half. I find a 121⁄2in (31.7cm) square and a 6in (15.2cm) square handy to have too. Rulers are available in both imperial and metric measurements; however, I would use them as you would a recipe – don’t mix the two on the same project.
Cutting strips and squares
Adapt this method to whatever size of square, rectangle or strip you need to cut. Once you have got used to using the equipment, you will find it a quick and accurate way of cutting fabric.
The instructions below are for a single layer of fabric; you can, however, cut several layers with a rotary cutter. When cutting layers, keep them lined up by spinning the board round so it is in the right position to cut, rather than lifting up the fabric as it will shift and make your next cut less accurate.
To help cut the fabric on the straight of the grain, line up the bottom of the ruler with the selvedge for the first cut. Then trim off the selvedge and put this to one side, so you don’t accidentally use a piece of fabric that has the selvedge on it in the quilt. The selvedge also pulls in the fabric near it, so cutting it off helps the fabric relax and lay flat.
Before you start, read through the safety tips.
1 Lay the fabric on a cutting mat. Place the ruler at a right angle on the edge of the fabric and trim off a small amount of fabric to make a straight edge. This starts to square up your fabric.
2 Turn the fabric round, and line up the 4in (10.2cm) line on your ruler with the straight edge of the fabric and cut a strip. Repeat to cut as many strips as required.
3 Lay out a strip. Line the edge of the fabric with the edge of the ruler and cut. The end of the fabric now has three perfect 90-degree angles. You can now cut off as many squares as you need, using the measuring line on the ruler for reference.
Safety tips
A
