have the workshop space, you may want to pick up a secondhand tractor. Make sure it’s a make and model that will still have parts available if you need to perform repairs. The good news is tractors aren’t used every day, and well-maintained machines will last for decades, so a twenty-year-old tractor may have plenty of quality life ahead of it.
There are garden tractors, subcompact tractors, compact tractors, and full-sized tractors, many of them with a wide range of attachments for tasks as varied as baling hay, cultivating row crops, chipping brush, and digging fence postholes.
It’s a good idea to make a list of all the work on the farm that you expect a tractor will help you accomplish and talk over the options with a reputable tractor dealer. Also ask a dealer about used tractors; some may have reliable used equipment to sell.
If you do choose a small tractor and are planning to use it for multiple tasks, look for a three-point hitch and PTO (power takeoff)—features that allow versatility in attachments. The three-point hitch has three connecting points from tractor to attachment, with one link above and two below in a triangle. The three-point hitch is the standard in farm tractors, allowing hydraulics on the lower attachments to lift the equipment up and down. There are four categories/sizes of three-point hitches for different sized tractors: 0, I, II, and III. Make sure your attachments fit your tractor’s hitch.
The PTO is a shaft that couples with the attachment to provide power from the tractor. It’s what makes a posthole auger turn, a wood chipper chip, and a tiller’s blades rotate. It’s also one of the most frequent causes of serious farm injuries, usually from items of clothing that become entangled in an exposed shaft.
Two-Wheeled Tractor
A less-expensive but still versatile option for small-scale farmers is a walk-behind tractor, also called a two-wheeled tractor. Walk-behind tractors look like the handlebars and engine section of a large rear-tine rotary tiller, but they hook up to multiple attachments, from snowblowers and plows to seeders, tillers, mowers, and even wood chippers. Not only are the engine sections smaller and less expensive than a ride-on tractor, you can also add attachments as you expand your operation.
You can save money by purchasing a second-hand rotary tiller or tractor. Just make sure the equipment is in good condition and won’t break down when you need it most.
Sprayers
Organic growers don’t rely on pesticides to solve all their garden problems, but sprayers are still useful for foliar feeds, compost tea, and well-timed and sometimes necessary organic pest controls.
Pressure Sprayers
When spraying organic controls, I like to use the smallest container possible because I don’t want to mix up any more than I need. That means my 1-gal. sprayer gets the most action (sometimes only half-filled).
A sprayer should have a strap to help you carry it, a pump to provide internal pressure, a relief valve, and a wand with a trigger and adjustable nozzle (from stream to fine mist). Brass wands and nozzles are more durable than plastic nozzles.
For larger areas, consider a backpack sprayer, which will keep both hands free. Most hold 3 to 4 gal. Many models have a hand lever on the side to pump the sprayer and build pressure without removing the backpack. Try a few on and choose a size that’s best suited for your farm or garden, keeping in mind that the larger-capacity sprayers will be heavier when full.
Some liquids—like fish-emulsion fertilizers and compost tea—can contain particles that will clog the nozzle of a pressure sprayer. They may be better applied with a hose sprayer or watering can.
Hose Sprayers
These sprayers typically have a half-liter poly container, which screws onto a head with a nozzle at one end and a hose connector at the other. The better models use a feeder straw that draws an even supply of fertilizer into the stream of water exiting the hose. They are not as precise as a pressure sprayer with a brass wand, but they work well for applying liquid fertilizers.
Other Large Expenses
Tractors aren’t the only major farm expenses. Additions such as a greenhouse should be given the same consideration and weighed against other major purchases. New greenhouses—constructed of tubular steel with heavy-duty stretched plastic sheeting for a roof—have been reduced in cost to a few thousand dollars, depending on size and such features as lights, fans, ventilation, and heating. They can stretch the growing seasons, allowing farmers to produce salad greens into winter and start tomato plants in early spring. A quick look at your customers’ needs and the potential for market expansion could lead you to spend money on a greenhouse before you invest in a tractor.
Somewhere between owning a greenhouse and not owning a greenhouse there’s an option called the high tunnel. A high tunnel is a low-cost movable greenhouse that can be placed over a planting bed to extend the season for the equivalent of one full USDA hardiness zone. Extra protection can be gained by placing floating row covers over crops on cold nights.
High tunnels—often called hoop houses—can be made from inexpensive materials available at building supply stores or purchased as kits from specialty suppliers. Some include sideboards for a more permanent structure. (See the “Resources” section for more information.)
Walk-behind tractors may be the solution for small-scale growers who need more power and versatility than a rotary tiller. The machines can handle multiple attachments.
Cleaning Station
Large-scale farming operations have packing sheds where harvested vegetables are washed, trimmed, and packaged for market. You might set up an outdoor station of your own for small-scale production. We took a double-well sink from one of our CSA (Community-Supported Agriculture) customers who was remodeling his kitchen and mounted it onto a sturdy frame with an old kitchen countertop. Then we attached a hose to the sink’s rinse-sprayer.
It has ample counter space for cleaning and trimming lettuce or cooking greens and two wells for rinsing and stacking the veggies. We keep a small compost bin nearby for any trimmings that don’t go to the chickens. I’ve seen other small farms with similar arrangements for cleaning their crops.
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