fingers, but about one inch will be found the most suitable width for general purposes. The reins should not be too thick, or they will always be hard and stiff, while, on the other hand, if they are very thin, they will be uncomfortably soft in wet weather.
|Backband.| In a two-wheeled cart the backband ought to be long enough to allow the shafts to hang level. There ought always to be a little weight on the shafts, as nothing looks so vulgar as shafts pointing up to the skies, with all the weight on the belly-band. |Shafts and balance of cart.| It must be borne in mind that by letting down the shafts the balance of the cart can be very considerably altered. This alteration is often useful when there are four people in the cart, as few dog-carts balance well with this number, the weight being nearly always on the belly-band. Few owners thoroughly appreciate what misery their friends undergo when made to occupy a back seat under these conditions, as they so rarely try it themselves.
The belly-band should not hang down |Belly-band.| quite loose, but, while allowing a little play of the shafts, should be tight enough to prevent them from tipping up to any extent.
|Girth of pad.| The pad as well as the crupper should be buckled up pretty tight if there are any steep hills to go down, and a breeching is not used; otherwise the pad will slip forward and gall the horse’s withers. Sore withers give a great deal of trouble and are difficult to cure. Another result of the pad slipping forward is chafing of the horse’s elbows. On some horses the only way to prevent it is to fasten the girth back to the shaft on each side by means of straps. This plan is frequently used in hansoms in London. The pad itself should be well stuffed off the back, particularly with high-withered horses.
|The blinkers.| The blinkers should be so fitted that the horse’s eyes come almost in the middle of them, while the headstall should be tight enough to prevent the blinkers from bulging out when pressure is put on the bit, and thus enabling the horse to see behind him; but they should be fitted so as not to turn inwards and almost touch the eyes. |Horse’s comfort reflected in manner of going.| This is a point which is very often little attended to, but one which makes a considerable difference to the horse’s comfort, and is naturally reflected in his manner of going.
The throat-lash should not be fastened too |Throat-lash.| tight; if it is, it will half choke the horse. It should be loose enough to allow three fingers to be passed between it and the horse’s throat.
The nose-band should admit of the breadth |Nose-band.| of two fingers between it and the horse’s jaw.
|Bitting.| Bitting is all a matter of common sense and practice. The reins must be altered up or down the bit until the adjustment most comfortable for the horse has been discovered. But even then a great deal will depend on |Hands.| what is generally known as “Hands.” This really unknown quantity, consisting as it does of complete sympathy between the horse and his driver, though born and not made, can be improved to some extent by teaching and practice. This gift has been defined as “not using more force on the reins than the exigencies of the occasion render absolutely necessary.” As a general rule the bit should lie flat in the horse’s mouth about one inch above the tusks.
|Curb-chain.| The curb-chain must not be too tight, and there ought to be room for at least two fingers to be placed between it and the horse’s jaw. If a horse is at all inclined to be a puller, an ignorant groom will very often fix it as tight as he can, with the probable result that the horse will jib or pull all the harder. In the latter case he will be likely to get a sore under the jaw. The best remedy for this is to fix a piece of leather on the chain, so that the latter does not rub on the sore place. If a horse bores to the near side, putting the rein down lower on the off than on the near side will very often make him go straight, and vice versâ. Some horses pull with very sharp bits, and will not do so with a snaffle, while others do just the contrary. A double-ring snaffle covered with leather or made of indiarubber is useful for very light-mouthed horses.
|Use of a net.| A net usually stops horses pulling for a time, but it is doubtful whether it has a permanent effect; so that it is better to leave it off occasionally.
|Bearing-rein.| If a horse is inclined to put his head down, and bore, a bearing-rein will prevent him from doing so; but it must not be too tight. There are many horses that would be undrivable without one, as it keeps their heads in the proper position, and thus takes the weight off the driver’s hand. When driving a young horse or a bad kicker it is always advisable to have a loose one on, as it will prevent him from becoming unmanageable by putting his head between his legs. The American pattern, which passes from the bearing-rein hook on the pad over the top of the horse’s head, through a keeper on the headpiece between his ears, down to the bridoon is very useful for a hard puller.
The correct adjustment of a bearing-rein requires a certain amount of practice, as when the horse is standing still it always appears much tighter than it really is.
|Bitting of a pulling horse.| Sometimes a very hard puller, especially in a team, can be driven with a big Liverpool bit hanging loose in his mouth and with the reins fixed to a bridoon; a bearing-rein can also be fitted on this bridoon if required.
A martingale will prove effective in the case of horses who pull owing to their habit of star-gazing.
Sometimes a horse pulls by getting hold of the cheek of the bit with his lip. This can be met with the elbow-bit, which is an improvement on the Liverpool bit, as, by having a bend in it, the cheek is so far back that the horse cannot reach it with his lips or tongue. The reason that this bit is not more generally used is that many people consider it unsightly.
Indiarubber-covered bits, especially those with a double bar, also answer very well with some pulling horses, the effect then being to make the bit work on a different part of the mouth from that to which they are accustomed.
A double bar can easily be improvised by sewing a piece of leather, like a lip-strap, only larger, across the top of an ordinary bit, just below the end of the headpiece.
An inveterate puller may in time get used to any bit, in which case frequent change is the only remedy.
|Every horse’s mouth has a key.| In fact there is a key to almost every horse’s mouth if it can only be found, and it is well worth taking considerable trouble to find it; though frequently much patience and many experiments will be required before a successful result is obtained, and the man who has to drive many horses must have a large assortment of bits.
|Martingale.| A martingale is excellent for a horse that carries his head in the air, and also very effective for one that rears. It should be so adjusted as to keep the nose about in line with the withers, and is generally fixed to the nose-band, but may be attached to the bit, and when so attached it is better to use a half-moon snaffle, or one without a joint in it, as this greatly reduces the chances of the corners of the horse’s mouth getting sore.
Circular pieces of leather, called cheek leathers, are also very useful in this respect with ordinary bits, as they keep the corners |Corners of mouth sore.| of the horse’s mouth from being pinched by the cheeks, and also prevent to a certain extent his getting hold of them with his lips.
For a horse that has only one side to |One-sided mouth.| his mouth, it often answers to have a few tacks put on the inside of the piece of leather, which effectually stops him from leaning his head out to that side.
These pieces have a round hole in the middle, which fits the bar of the bit, and a slit from this hole to the outside, so that they can be put on and taken off quite easily.
|Kicking-strap.| Kicking-straps can be used either in single or double harness. In the former the strap passes up from one of the shafts through a loop in the crupper, and down to the other shaft. In double harness two straps are required. These are fixed to the pad, from which
