only support the growth of a vine. Southern pine, Douglas fir, and cypress are stronger than redwood, cedar, and other pines. Black locust is becoming more popular and larch, where available, may be suitable. In recent years, there has been a disheartening decline in lumber quality as tree plantations grow the wood too fast and/or harvest it too young, resulting in reduced strength and durability.
Inspect your potential purchases for flaws. Sight along a board looking for warping and twisting. Knots are okay if tight and in-grown, whereas loose ones are a bad sign.
Pay attention to size. The thickness and width of boards are expressed in nominal dimensions, such as 2x4 or 1x6, but the actual dimensions are less: ½- to ¾-inch (.5 to 1.9 cm) less (a 2x4, for example, is 1½ by 3½ inches, or 3.8 by 8.9 cm). For length, boards come in 2-foot (.6 m) increments from 6 to 20 feet (1.8 to 6.1 m).
Be selective with the type. Choose boards with a high percentage of heartwood (the darker, richer-colored wood) and dense growth rings (at least eight per inch/2.5 cm). In addition, remember the following:Some woods, such as the heartwood of cedar and redwood, resist decay naturally. These woods also tend not to warp as much as other species. Although cedar and redwood lack strength for major load-bearing members, such as deck joists, they work well for fences.Nondurable woods (southern pine and Douglas fir, for example) that have been pressure-treated with preservatives make good fence materials. Bear in mind that treated lumber fencing really shouldn’t be used adjacent to edible plants (or used to make raised beds for food gardening — see Chapter 10), because the chemicals do leach into the soil over time. You can improve the appearance of most wood by staining or painting it, so consider durability and strength first.
About wood alternatives
You can construct many hardscape projects from lumber alternatives, principally plastics and composites, which we discuss here:
Plastic materials such as PVC (polyvinyl chloride) vinyl and fiberglass reinforced plastics (FRP) are generally used for fencing, arbors, deck skirting, and lawn edging. Many styles and sizes are available; they’re strong and versatile and require no maintenance. Some plastic fence materials are sold as kits, making installation easy.
Composite decking boards (CDB) are made from recycled or reclaimed materials with polyethylene (HDPE or LDPE) plastic or PVC mixed with wood fiber, rice hulls, or other fillers as well as a blend of chemical additives to create a rigid product that won’t rot, splinter, warp, or crack. These are commonly referred to as Trex. Trex, like Kleenex in the world of facial tissues, is actually a brand name. Similar products include New Tech Wood, Fiberon, and Timbertech.In recent years, the marketplace and many contractors have embraced non-wood products because they have a lot going for them, such as:They have a convincing wood-like look that is truly aesthetically pleasing.They’re tough, resistant to mildew, mold, and rot.They’re easy to maintain — just spray off with water from time to time.They’re available in many colors (though the brightness will fade over time).Generally they’re more expensive, but composites hold up much better and for much longer than wood and, in the end, if you factor in less maintenance, using them could end up being about the same investment or perhaps even a savings for you.Composites are a good choice for decking, railing systems, and landscape timbers. They may be used pretty much as you would use regular lumber, though we recommend always creating pilot holes for nails and screws. The boards can be cut with a circular saw, require little to no maintenance, and don’t need to be painted or stained.
Identifying tools and supplies
Be sure you have the necessary tools on the job before you start. You don’t need to purchase all of these tools. You may be able to borrow some from family members, friends, and neighbors (just make sure to return them clean and in a timely manner). Or rent from big box home-improvement stores.
Here are some tools to add to your toolbelt and toolchest:
Basic carpentry tools: A tape measure, hammer, square, screwdriver, handsaw, power/circular saw, power drill, and chalkline (a simple gadget that looks a bit like a tape measure; it helps you easily mark straight lines in chalk; see Chapter 2) — more than likely also a wheelbarrow, stepladder, and sawhorses.
Carpentry tools: A jigsaw or even better, a reciprocating saw.
Digging tools: Both square and round shovels, a good trowel, and perhaps a garden rake.
Specialty tools: For instance, a power auger (to dig post holes), scoop loader (for hauling bulk materials), masonry-cutting saw (for brick, tile, or stone), plate compactor (for compacting gravel and sand), or ditch excavator (for irrigation, drain, and electrical pipes),These specialty tools are perfect examples of ones you can rent or borrow rather than buy.
Hose: Not necessarily a tool per se, but having a nearby hose is never a bad idea. Rinse off dirty or muddy tools at the end of each work day. Blast soil or dirt out of your way. If you use mortar, you’ll need water.
Meanwhile, you’ll need stakes and levels for your hardscape projects:
Stakes: The stakes that we refer to are called hubs or construction stakes. They’re made of wood, and the standard size is 2 x 2 inches (5.1 x 5.1 cm), with lengths varying between 8 and 24 inches (20.3 and 60.1 cm). They’re sold in bundles at any lumber yard or home-supply store.
Levels: Levels are very handy. The three main kinds are as follows:Line level: A smaller-size gadget (3 or 4 inches, 7.6 or 10.1 cm long) that can be hung on a taut string (via little hooks); has a bubble level embedded in it.Carpenter’s, spirit, or I-beam level: The classic metal, wood, or plastic item, typically 2 feet (.6 m) long (but you can get them up to 8 feet/2.4 m long — the longer the level, the greater the accuracy), with one or more bubble levels embedded; fine to use for smaller projects.Laser level: This newer gadget is a game-changer, making formerly time-consuming jobs so much easier. Some look like a carpenter’s level, and some look like a tin can; they mount on a tripod and rotate (manually or automatically) while emitting a red laser beam. You can rent the setup.
Keeping safety front and center
Always think safety. Proper attire as well as wise work habits and work-site precautions go a long way toward making any project safe for you and any helpers. Use common sense and keep the following in mind at all times:
Wear gloves, safety glasses or goggles, a dust mask, or hard hat as needed. If you have long hair, tie it back.
Dress in fitted, not loose, heavy pants and long-sleeve shirt.
Wear steel-toe boots.
Banish kids, pets, and individuals not helping you out of the work area.
Lift with your legs, not your back, and avoid lifting and twisting at the same time.
Keep the work site clear of scraps, idle tools, and other tripping hazards.
Make sure that extension cords and power tools are plugged into outlets with ground-fault circuit interrupter (GFCI) protection.
Operate power tools with caution, observing the manufacturer’s safety
