Orchids For Dummies. Steven A. Frowine

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The excitement of the moment can completely win over rational plant selection. Few beginning orchid growers take the time to consider their environment before they buy. Unfortunately, if you don’t think this through before you shop, you may end up bringing home a gorgeous orchid that’s completely wrong for you.

      

If possible, always choose an orchid that comes close to fitting your growing area. Even though in Part 2 of this book I give you pointers on how to modify your growing area to make it more suitable for orchid growth, you can only modify your environment so much. For instance, an orchid that is commonly found growing in full sun in Hawaii probably won’t take well to a windowsill during the winter in low-light areas like New England. And an orchid from the cloud forest that is drenched with almost constant rainfall and extremely high humidity probably won’t be happy and bloom in the hot dry air of Arizona.

      Taking temperature readings

      Before you bring home an orchid, you need to consider the average daytime and nighttime temperatures in summer and winter where you live.

To determine high and low temperatures indoors get a maximum/minimum thermometer that records this information and place it in your growing area. A broad selection of temperature and weather recording instruments are available from home stores, garden centers, or online. I find that a maximum-minimum thermometer (see Figure 2-1) is especially useful to determine your minimum and maximum temperatures for day and night. They’re available in digital or analog.

Photo depicts maximum-minimum thermometer.

      © John Wiley & Sons, Inc.

      FIGURE 2-1: Maximum-minimum thermometer.

      For an idea of what your minimum temperatures are outdoors where you live, check out the USDA hardiness map online at https://planthardiness.ars.usda.gov/pages/view-maps. If you’re a weather geek like I am, you can use a recording weather station that reads and records the maximum and minimum temperature, humidity, wind speed, rainfall, and barometric pressure every hour and stores this information so it can be charted. Mine has remote sensors and a wireless connection to my computer.

Temperature (Nighttime Minimum) Genus
Cool (45°F–55°F/7.2°C–12.8°C) Cymbidium Dendrobium Odontoglossum
Cool (45°F–55°F/7.2°C–12.8°C) to Intermediate (55°F–60°F/12.8°C–15.6°C) Cymbidium Dendrobium Encyclia Masdevallia Miltoniopsis Zygopetalum
Intermediate (55°F–60°F/12.8°C–15.6°C) Aerangis Cattleya and hybrids Cymbidium Dendrobium Encyclia Epidendrum Laelia Maxillaria Miltonia Oncidium Paphiopedilum Phragmipedium Vanda Zygopetalum
Intermediate (55°F–60°F/12.8°C–15.6°C) to Warm (65°F/18.3°C or higher) Aerangis Amesiella Angraecum Brassavola Cattleya Dendrobium Encyclia Epidendrum Neofinetia Neostylis Oncidium Rhynchostylis Vanda Vascostylis
Warm (65°F/18.3°C or higher) Angraecum Phalaenopsis Vanda
When orchid publications refer to temperature preferences, they almost always mean the evening temperature. The daytime temperature is usually about 15°F (9.5°C) higher than the evening temperature.

      Measuring your light intensity

      Just as important as temperature is the amount of light your orchid will get. Orchids that thrive in high light need several hours of direct sunlight (preferably in the morning to early afternoon), or bright artificial light whereas those that thrive in lower light will perform with less direct and more diffused light in a windowsill or under less intense lights.

How bright is your light? Figure 2-2 illustrates a simple yet effective and reasonably accurate method for determining the intensity of your light.

Schematic illustration of the shadow test is a simple and reasonably accurate way to measure light intensity.

      ©

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