The Joyful Home Cook. Rosie Birkett

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The Joyful Home Cook - Rosie Birkett

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salted aubergine is fried in plenty of oil – the aubergine at once sucks it up, creating a silken, creamy inside, while the outside of the flesh caramelises and browns, making something deeply savoury and utterly addictive. Paired with nutty roasted broccoli, cooling labneh and crispy spiced chickpeas, with an array of homemade ferments to cut through the richness of the aubergine and tahini dressing, this salad has it all. The inspiration for this dish came from one of my favourite local restaurants, The Good Egg in Stoke Newington, which specialises in Israeli food and serves ‘Sabih’ – a popular Israeli sandwich of fried aubergines and boiled eggs stuffed into pitta bread. Add boiled eggs to this to beef it up, or lose the labneh to keep it vegan.

      1 large aubergine, cut into 1.5-cm slices

      1 tsp sea salt flakes

      1 × 400g tin chickpeas, drained

      ½ head of broccoli, broken into florets, including leaves

      3 tbsp rapeseed, olive or vegetable oil

      pinch of dried chilli flakes

      1 tsp smoked sweet paprika

      handful of flat-leaf parsley leaves

      handful of dill fronds

      handful of mint leaves

      1 tsp sumac

      150g Labneh (see here)

      sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

       For the dressing

      20g preserved lemon, deseeded (shop-bought or (see here))

      1 tbsp lemon juice

      4 tbsp water

      2 tbsp olive oil

      1 tsp honey

      1 tsp salt

      1 garlic clove

      ½ tsp cumin seeds or ground cumin

      1 tbsp good-quality tahini

       To serve

      1 tbsp Fermented Turnips (see here), drained

      1 tbsp Pink Pickled Onions (see here), drained

      1 tbsp Fermented Green Chillies (see here), drained

      2 toasted pitta breads

      1 Place the aubergine slices in a sieve over the sink or a bowl and scatter the sea salt all over. Leave it to sit and drain the moisture from the aubergine for about 30 minutes.

      2 Preheat the oven to 200°C/180°C fan/gas 6. Dry the chickpeas with a clean tea towel and tip them into a roasting tray. Add the broccoli, broccoli leaves, 1 tablespoon of the oil, chilli flakes, smoked paprika and some salt and pepper and toss together. Roast in the oven for 25–30 minutes, until the chickpeas are really crispy and the broccoli is crispy at the edges but tender when cut into.

      3 Meanwhile, wipe off any excess water from the aubergine with kitchen paper, then heat the remaining 2 tablespoons of oil in a heavy-based frying pan or skillet over a medium-high heat. Once the oil is shimmering hot, add the aubergine slices and fry for 4–5 minutes on each side, until nicely browned on the outside and squishy in the middle. You may need to add a little more oil as you go. Transfer to a plate lined with kitchen paper and set aside.

      4 To make the dressing, put all the ingredients into the bowl of a food processor and blitz until you have a loose but emulsified dressing.

      5 Toss the roasted chickpeas and broccoli in a bowl with half the fresh herbs and the sumac. Season with salt and pepper and coat with a little of the dressing. Spread the labneh over a serving platter and top with the salad, then strew the fried aubergine, remaining herbs and ferments over the top. Serve with fluffy toasted pitta and the dressing on the side.

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      Burrata and roast root rave salad

       with harissa and walnut salsa

      Serves 4 as a starter, 6 as a side

       This is a showstopper of a salad, perfect as a sharing platter and a great way to make a fuss of the meat-free people in your life. People always swoon for burrata, and here it lends its bursting creamy splendour to a medley of root veg, roasted until tender and caramelised and piled atop mounds of fregola (a spherical, toasted Sardinian pasta) and lentils. With a punchy salsa to spoon over the whole lot, and the burrata to tear into, it’s an all-star line up of spice, sweetness and umami. If you’re making it for veggies, sub the anchovies for capers or black olives.

      150g puy lentils

      200g fregola or giant couscous

      2 large beetroots, scrubbed

      olive oil, for drizzling

      300g organic carrots, scrubbed and halved lengthways

      100g parsnips, scrubbed and halved lengthways

      4 banana shallots, peeled and halved lengthways

      4 slices of Preserved Orange (see here) or zest of 1 orange

      1 tsp cumin seeds

      1 tsp coriander seeds

      pinch of dried chilli flakes

      1 tbsp honey or maple syrup

      leaves of 3 heads of chicory

      2 large burrata

      handful of parsley and coriander

      sea salt and black pepper

       For the pickled beetroot

      100ml cider vinegar

      5g sea salt

      30g caster sugar

      ½ tsp each fennel seeds, mustard seeds and coriander seeds

      ½ cinnamon stick

      2 candy-striped beetroots, peeled and thinly sliced

      ½ red chilli, thinly sliced (optional)

       For the walnut salsa

      50g walnuts

      40g tinned anchovy fillets

      1

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