walked upon a narrow tow-path leading along the canal, and beneath the numerous bridges which are thrown over it. These bridges, of which there are about three hundred between Albany and Utica, are all built of wood, and in a very awkward style; most of them belong to the farmers, and are intended to serve as a means of communication between their fields. The distance from Albany to Schenectady, by land, is only fifteen miles, and persons are enabled to travel it in a very short time in the stage-coach; but as we were anxious to see the canal, and get leisure to complete our journals, we preferred going by water, twenty-eight miles.
At Troy, five miles and a half from Albany, is the government arsenal, which appears to be a large establishment. As far as this place, the canal runs nearly parallel with the Hudson. Troy, which is very pleasantly situated on the left bank of the river, at the foot of several tolerably high mountains, one of which is called Mount Ida, appears, if we may be permitted to judge from the large store-houses and the good appearance of the dwellings, to be a wealthy place. Here is a branch canal which has two locks, and establishes a communication with Troy. Shortly after, we arrived at a place where there are no less than nine locks, with an ascent of seventy-eight feet. In front, and to the right of this, is another canal, which unites with the Hudson and the canal from Lake Champlain. At this place we left the Hudson and directed our course along the Mohawk river. During our ride we observed a covered wooden bridge, which extends over the latter river, a short distance from its mouth, and is about six hundred feet in length, supported by fifteen wooden piers. Here we saw the famous Cohoes Falls of the Mohawk river, seventy-eight feet in height and about four hundred feet wide. In the spring, when these falls extend over the entire bed of the Mohawk, they are said to be extremely magnificent; during the present dry weather, they presented a very handsome appearance, though they were very small. The river was almost completely dried up. I walked over its bed, which consists of slate rock, as far as its middle and near to the falls. In some places the rocks are excavated by the action of the water, and you may see holes which are full of water and are said to contain excellent fish. Finding great difficulty in continuing the canal on the right bank of the Mohawk, they were obliged here to carry it to the opposite side by means of an aqueduct-bridge, one thousand one hundred and eighty-eight feet in length. This bridge is of wood, and is supported by twenty-six stone columns, on account of which, they have placed a chevaux-de-frise, to keep off the ice in the river about one hundred yards off. The part of this wooden canal, which contains the water, is about twenty feet wide and has a tow-path eight feet wide on one side. These wooden aqueducts will probably soon require repairing, and there is no doubt but that they will ultimately be obliged to build them of iron. The canal is cut through the rocks, almost the whole distance, where it runs along the left bank of the Mohawk, and presents a very handsome appearance. Twelve miles farther on, it returns again to the right bank of the Mohawk by a similar aqueduct, seven hundred and forty-eight feet in length and supported by sixteen piers. Above this aqueduct, which is also protected by a chevaux-de-frise, there is a common wooden bridge thrown over the river, for wagons. Four miles farther on is Schenectady, where we arrived after sunset. Between this town and Albany, we passed no less than twenty-seven locks. These, though they are built of solid lime-stone, will soon require repairing, as the water passes through them in various places. The gates also lock badly, so that the water which percolates forms artificial cascades. The country through which we passed to-day was generally wild and hilly, and somewhat thinly settled.
Schenectady is an old town containing about five thousand inhabitants, and is intersected by the canal. At this place we left the packet-boat, in order to proceed to Utica next morning in another boat, and found excellent lodgings at Given’s hotel, which, after the great heat we had endured during the day, was exceedingly agreeable. Its inhabitants are, in part, descendants of the Lower Saxons, and some of them whom I saw at the tavern conversed with me in bad Dutch. Early on the next morning we walked through the town, and visited Union College, which consists of two large buildings situated a short distance from the town upon a little eminence. It was the time of vacation, and consequently it was perfectly silent. From its decaying appearance, I should judge the college was not in a very prosperous condition. From this building you have a beautiful view of the town, and of the Mohawk valley, which appears here to be well settled. In the town we observed a peculiar windmill, with a horizontal wheel, whose sails, about twenty in number, stand perpendicularly.
We left Schenectady early in the morning on board the packet-boat Samuel Young, which had engaged to take us to Utica, eighty miles distant, by an early hour the next day. It was a large boat, and, as the passengers are obliged to spend the night on board, is provided with separate apartments for the ladies. The canal again ran along the well-cultivated valley of the Mohawk, and the country, on account of the foliage of the trees upon the heights was beautiful. The village of Amsterdam consists of a few neat houses; and opposite, on the right bank of the Mohawk, is Rotterdam. On our way we passed several small aqueducts, the longest of which rest only upon three piers, and extend over small brooks, which, as well as the small rivulets, are distinguished by the Indian appellation of “creek.” The canal is carried over two rivers, called Schoharie and Canajoharie creeks, from which it receives the most of its water. At this place the horses are conveyed to the opposite side of the two rivers by means of ferry-boats. At the first ferry is a small village, called Fort Hunter, where, before the revolution, there had been a fort, or rather a redoubt of the same name. Towards evening we passed through a valley, which is formed by two rocky mountains, one of which is called Anthony’s Nose. The houses we saw on our route, had generally a handsome appearance; to-day and yesterday I observed also some saw-mills. There are twenty-six locks between Schenectady and Utica. The day was intolerably warm, and our company was very numerous. I confined myself to writing, the whole day, as much as possible; but, in consequence of the heat, I could not avoid sleeping. In the evening we fortunately had a thunder-storm, which cooled the air. During the night, as there was a want of births, the beds were placed upon benches, and, as I was the tallest person, mine was put in the centre upon the longest bench, with a chair as a supplement. It had the appearance of a hereditary sepulchre, in the centre of which I lay as father of the family. I spent an uncomfortable night, on account of my constrained posture, the insects which annoyed me, and the steersman, who always played an agreeable tune upon his bugle whenever he approached a lock. During the night we passed an aqueduct bridge, which stands over a solace, called Little Falls. Towards morning we passed through a well-cultivated region, with some neat houses, called German flats, and which was settled by some Germans during the time of Queen Anne. At about twelve o’clock at noon we arrived at Utica, nine miles from the place where we passed a lock, which is the last that occurs in the next seventy miles. The land appeared to be marshy, and consisted of sand and pebbles.
Utica, which is intersected by the canal, is a flourishing town, of about four thousand inhabitants, and stands upon the site where Fort Schuyler, a redoubt against the Indians, was formerly situated. In 1794, there was a small tavern here, which was the only dwelling house in this part of the country; but at present Utica is one of the most flourishing towns in the state of New York, and new houses are continually building. In fact, it is only here that a person begins to admire the great improvements in cultivation, and gets perfectly new ideas of the works of man, and of his enterprising genius! Utica, on the right bank of the Mohawk, has two banks, four churches, an academy, and large and convenient stores, a bookstore, and printing-office. It has also several ale-houses, and three fine taverns, at the largest of which, called Shepherd’s hotel, we found excellent accommodations. In this house there are always more than seventy beds for the accommodation of strangers; and these, on some occasions, are barely sufficient. The number of travellers this summer, is said to have been unusually great, especially from the southern states, where the heat is intolerable, and the summers generally unhealthy. In such an American tavern every thing is perfectly comfortable, and proportionably cheap. The price for board and lodging is a dollar a day. The bell for rising rings before seven o’clock in the morning. The bed-chambers are spacious, the beds wide and comfortable, and the linen fine and perfectly clean. The bed-chambers, moreover, are furnished with the necessary wash-stands, &c. After a person is dressed, he enters the bar-room, where he finds all kinds of strong and refreshing drinks; the desk of the head waiter is also here, who attends to the bill. The inn-keeper is generally a gentleman, who eats with the guests, and leads the conversation. Besides the entry,
